98.5 P24v. Questions/advice/guidance please - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
98.5-02 24V P-Pump Conversion Discussion of converting 24V trucks from the VP44 stock pump to a P-Pump powered 24V No Advertising ...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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98.5 P24v. Questions/advice/guidance please

I just purchased a 98.5 P-pumped 24v truck, and I'm in for a world of learning. I've owned 2 separate 24v's but never a P24v.

The truck is p-pumped, 70hp injectors, S363 turbo, exhaust brake, AD100 lift pump, and a G56 transmission. Although it was born an auto.

I bought the truck knowing that someone has spent thousands and thousands fixing it up but it also needs work. For example the front end was loose as a goose, BUT it came with all the parts to redo the front end completely. The gauge cluster worked very intermittently and the guy I bought the truck from said the current cluster is from a junkyard and probably just went bad. Although I figure the guy that originally did all the work replaced the auto gauge cluster with one meant for a manual. The AC also does not work, not sure why. Rotors are shot but truck came with new pads.

I ordered new battery terminals because I noticed the old ones looked in bad shape. I replaced the terminals and a couple days later I was driving the truck around to get it inspected and the gauge cluster seemed to function normally, with the exception of the tach, the whole time I drove. I think the gauge cluster issue might be solved.

After some research, I found out that p-pumped 24v trucks don't need an ecm or pcm, unless you want gauges to work (I had no idea). Which threw me for a loop.

All that being said, I guess I'm curious about what nuiances there are after p-pumping 24valves, such as not needing computers, or needing them gauges. Etc etc..

Is there a reason why the tach isn't working? I scanned codes but only got battery temp sensor, but that being said I'm not sure if I will even get codes anymore. I'm wondering if I just replace the crankshaft sensor and see if that corrects the issue.

Another thing is the air conditioning, would a p-pump effect that at all? I have zero AC, I don't think p-pump would effect AC but I don't know. I didn't realize a p-pump was so much different.

Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance for answers. The truck seems to run very good, the gauges not working just seem to throw red flags...



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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 07:13 PM
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It sounds to me like the CPS/ESS on the front of the engine is bad, missing or not the correct gap. If it was mine i'd just put some aftermarket gauges on.

From what i've heard the ECM controlled engines need the readings from the temp in order for the engine to run efficiently, it would be just like the new computer controlled gas engines.

The good thing about a P-pumped 24v it will be very dependable, won't need any electronics to run.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Update of sorts... I bought a CPS for a 24v, only to pull the starter and find a plate where the sensor ought to go. After some hunting I found a 97-98 style sensor on the truck. The truck doesn't have an ecm though.

A gentleman on compd has said in order for tach to work I need an ecm. I don't even know what year ecm I would need to purchase

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 09:59 PM
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98-99 auto or manual will work without any programming.

1998 12v, 4x4, Club Cab, Carli, Thuren, BlueTop, Core 4x4, BD Diesel, PDD 5x.012, South Bend
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1995 Dually, Weston's 5x.016, 4k GSK, 5" FloPro, 255/85r16 Toyo M/T, Goerend, ARP, 60# Springs, BW 62/65/14, BW 75/96/1.10, Isspro, Fass 125, BDP Sump, 7mm DV's, 751 HP 1883 FP Torque on NOS
1998 P-Pumped 24v, 4x4, NV4500 swap
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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The truck runs great, what little I've actually driven it... But no AC or tach. Tach I don't care much about, AC I do. Today it was 104

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 10:21 PM
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I believe the pcm controls the ac. The only difference in auto and manual cluster is the PRD21 and there is a black plastic cover for manual. Most likely swapped clusters to lower miles.

1998 12v, 4x4, Club Cab, Carli, Thuren, BlueTop, Core 4x4, BD Diesel, PDD 5x.012, South Bend
2012 Laramie Longhorn, EFI by Ryan, Carli, Thuren
1995 Dually, Weston's 5x.016, 4k GSK, 5" FloPro, 255/85r16 Toyo M/T, Goerend, ARP, 60# Springs, BW 62/65/14, BW 75/96/1.10, Isspro, Fass 125, BDP Sump, 7mm DV's, 751 HP 1883 FP Torque on NOS
1998 P-Pumped 24v, 4x4, NV4500 swap
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 06:14 AM
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You should be able to get the AC to work if you find the AC relay in the Power Distribution Box and put it to ground. That's what the ASD relay does when the PCM gets a signal from the ESS/CPS that the engine is running.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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So, gentleman from compd forum had me verify what PCM I have. 12V pcm's apparently run off of sensors (no ecm needed) and 24V pcm's need an ecm to get the signal for tach/AC.

Turns out my truck has a PCM for 98' 12V with a 5 speed.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Well, the guy I bought the truck from told me the truck has around 250k on it, but the cluster isn't original and it shows over 500k on it. He also said the cluster is bad and needs to be replaced, which seems to be false, and supposedly the AC just needed to be charged. LOL

I've asked for the original builders phone number so I can ask him what he ACTUALLY did to the truck.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Bit of an update. Bought the correct sensor and installed it. Then after watching it idle I realized the damper was VERY bad. Ordered a fluidampr and installed it tonight.

New ess, and new fluidampr and now the tach seems smooth as butter. Haven't gotten to drive it yet but at idle it seems to be fixed.



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