A little more timing help please - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 225
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
A little more timing help please

OK I'm going to advance my timing tomorrow, but all my tools are at work. So I need to know what I need to bring home since I won't have access over the weekend.
Here's what I have at home so far:
-Snap-On timing tools
-torque wrench
-assistant
-breaker bar
-brake cleaner
-wrags
-my own competence and the TSB printout

What else do I need?
-sockets (sizes?)
-wrenches (sizes?)
I don't have a barring tool so that's out.

Anything else you can think of would be a huge help, Friday is my last chance to gain a few MPG before I leave for vacation.

Also, if anyone knows of other directions floating around other than the TSB, that would help too.

Thanks a lot,
-R.J.


1998 2500 QC SB 4x4 White DDP 4s, O-ringed ported and polished head, Silver 62, Full Garmonized SunCoast, billet front to back, hood stack, pump plug, no plate, AFC disabled, 5K GSK, far more to come.....
RJPotts is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 225
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Oh yeah... Do I really need to replace the DV washer, or is it reusable?
I've heard plenty of people's experiences, and can't recall anyone mentioning replacing it.
Please help quick, its almost bed time.
Thanks again,
-R.J.

1998 2500 QC SB 4x4 White DDP 4s, O-ringed ported and polished head, Silver 62, Full Garmonized SunCoast, billet front to back, hood stack, pump plug, no plate, AFC disabled, 5K GSK, far more to come.....
RJPotts is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 10:14 PM
Diesel Head
 
MotorCityMadman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 1,922
Thanks: 100
Thanked 100 Times in 94 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
I didn't replace mine and did not have a problem. If I had new one's I would use them.

98 2500,4x4auto,48re vb,billet single,shift kit+, Super B, 4" ss,#10 ff,4gsk,.024s, 5x.014, BHAF,16* gauges,WVO, B164 bypass 2004.5 3500, SRW, FASS WVO, B164 bypass, [email protected] Sold 96 2500 eclb 3gsk
MotorCityMadman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 10:52 PM
Tech Specialist
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ferndale CA/San Luis Obispo CA
Posts: 2,034
Thanks: 1
Thanked 115 Times in 99 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
How are you planning on barring the engine?
I'm guessing you've never done this before....its really hard to bring the engine up to exactly where you want it, the barring tools gear reduction helps tremendously. If you go to far you HAVE to back the engine up about 90* and then bring it back up in the direction of rotation. You can not set it going the opposite way.

Your 98 shouldn't have dv washers. If it does I think you can just take them all out.

The only other tools you'll need are the ones to bar the engine and run the puller, and the wrench for the fuel injection line obviously

Use lots of break clean



Personally I think I'd use a dial indicator and extension through the injector hole and not bother with the stupid timing pin.

98 Dodge 2500 12 valve, 5-speed, 4x4
Dual K20s is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-30-2008, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 225
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
You would be absolutely correct in guessing I'm a first timer advancing timing on a 12 valve.
I've got a dial indicator on a magnetic stand so I can pull the #1 injector and find TDC that way.
I saw that the TSB said it was for a 94'. I was not aware that my pump didn't have the little washers on top of the plunger. That will save a few scratches on the old noggen.
What size is the pump gear nut?
What is needed to remove the oil filler?
That's the stuff I was wondering about.
Also, any pointers would be great.
It seems pretty straight forward and I'm a diesel tech by trade so I have a good idea of what's going on, I've just never messed with timing on this particular pump so I was trying to get some good info before I got started.
I may be able to come up with a barring tool, but if not I'll just have to turn it from the front of the engine.
Thanks again,
-R.J.

1998 2500 QC SB 4x4 White DDP 4s, O-ringed ported and polished head, Silver 62, Full Garmonized SunCoast, billet front to back, hood stack, pump plug, no plate, AFC disabled, 5K GSK, far more to come.....
RJPotts is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-30-2008, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 225
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
If anyone has any input please help. I'm just about to get into it.
My CPL is 2174...so it should be set at 14* and 4.53mm lift if I read correctly.
I also see that 16* is 4.9mm.
I'm thinking something along the lines of 18* to start. Would 18* be 5.2mm?

Anyone? Please help.
Thanks again,
-R.J.

1998 2500 QC SB 4x4 White DDP 4s, O-ringed ported and polished head, Silver 62, Full Garmonized SunCoast, billet front to back, hood stack, pump plug, no plate, AFC disabled, 5K GSK, far more to come.....
RJPotts is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-30-2008, 10:18 PM
Tech Specialist
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ferndale CA/San Luis Obispo CA
Posts: 2,034
Thanks: 1
Thanked 115 Times in 99 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
The oil filler comes off with a 10mm bolt then unscrew the tube and unscrew the base, thats it.

Not sure about the pump nut, but its easy to find out, just go measure it.


Again I'm not sure how to bar the engine effectively without the tool, but a really long tool will help give you accuracy in leverage. Pulling the injectors would also make it easier to turn, and smoother.

I'm pretty sure about the washers but not 100% I could be wrong

98 Dodge 2500 12 valve, 5-speed, 4x4
Dual K20s is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-30-2008, 10:21 PM
Tech Specialist
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ferndale CA/San Luis Obispo CA
Posts: 2,034
Thanks: 1
Thanked 115 Times in 99 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
18* = 5.3mm

Dual K20s is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-06-2008, 03:11 PM
Tech Specialist
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ferndale CA/San Luis Obispo CA
Posts: 2,034
Thanks: 1
Thanked 115 Times in 99 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Any luck?

I guess if you went on a trip you won't be able to respond
Dual K20s is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome