NV4500 Swap Tutorial With Pictures - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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NV4500 Swap Tutorial With Pictures

Well after spending about a year gathering the pieces I finally got the 5 speed swapped in, and the tired 47RE removed. My truck is now fun to drive again! I took a few pictures that will hopefully help others on completing this swap.

To start:

I bought a rotted out 94 Ram 5 speed with a NV4500LD for $600. I was able to source some of my parts from this truck. I parted it out, then scrapped the rest of it and I ended up making money off the deal.

Here's a list of parts I used to complete the swap. I will also list some prices to give people a general idea of what a paid for the overall swap. The parts from my parts truck are all labeled FREE because it paid for itself.

NV4500------------------------------------$850
NV4500 Rebuild Kit--------------------------$195
NV4500 Rebuild Labor-----------------------$300
NV4500 "parts" Counter Shaft---------------$60
98+ NV4500 Top Cover----------------------$220
98+ Cover Shift tower-----------------------$40
98+ Shifter---------------------------------$20
1 3/8" Input--------------------------------$250
Valair Street Dual---------------------------$1100
Upgraded Hydros----------------------------$140
NV4500 Bellhousing--------------------------$150
29 Spline NP241DLD T-Case------------------$240
5 speed gauge cluster-----------------------$40
U-Joints, TCase seal, fluids, Misc.------------$150
Transfer case linkage----------------------FREE
5 speed shift boots--------------------------FREE
Pedals--------------------------------------FREE
F. Driveshaft--------------------------------FREE
Steering Column Plastic----------------------FREE

Grand Total--------------------------------$3,755




I may have forgotten a few things, as like I said I have been collecting parts for over a year now!

The guy that rebuild my transmissions name is Lou Jasmine from LST Transmission in Winsted, CT. He is one of the best and most reasonable priced guys around my area. He has built a few 48RE's for my friends, and specializes in Suncoast parts. I bought the rebuild kit from Allstate Gear. They have a website. It came with new syncros, bearings, seals, and upgraded 5th gear nut. My transmission also needed 4th gear on the counter shaft which I pressed off and re-installed. I found the top cover on eBay, and the shift tower there. He charged me $500 for total labor -$200 because we agreed that I would give him my core 47RE.

For what I have planned to do with my truck I choose to buy a Valair Street Dual Clutch. (NMU70NV45DDSN) I got the ceramic version. I talked to Dan, and his employees a few times on the phone and they were nothing but helpful. I also traded parts with Dan to get a deal on the upgraded Hydros with the adjustable rod.

A friend of mine has a garage in Falls Village, CT. He has done a 5 speed swap before and assisted me in mine. Overall it took us about 12 hours total to complete the swap.

Some of the pictures came out better than others. I will try to explain the process along the way. I will do my best to explain everything but I may fail to mention a few steps I forgot.

It makes things so much easier when you have the right tools!





1. Remove Front and Rear drive shafts.







2. Drain transmission, and transfer case.






3. Placed a dead man jack under the adaptor plate to support the weight of the transmission and T case. Then unbolted cross member, and transmission mount (which was shot). A trick to removing the cross member is to hammer it up, then back towards the rear end and it will fall right out...












4. We used a transmission jack to support the T-Case. Then unplugged the speed sensor, vacuum lines, vent, and used a special tool to remove the linkage.




Then unbolted and removed the T-Case.




5. Next was the transmission. Drained the pan and then reinstalled. I chose to cut off the transmission lines to allow to drain. You may want to try to save them, but I did not have the patients. Then we unplugged the neutral safety switch, and other transmission controls, removed the linkage with special tool. Next we moved forward. Remove access plug to the flexplate, and insert barring tool. Remove flexplate access plug and rotate motor until torque converter bolts are revealed. Remove all six bolts. Used the tranny jack to support the transmission. Moved the dead man jack to in front of the oil pan and jacked up the motor to make it easier to reach the bolts on the top of the transmission. We used a long extension to access these. I believe there are six of these as well. Remove the transmission…







Also cut the tranny lines going to the heat exchanger which I left in the truck.







Found a rock on top of the transmission which was up there for who knows how long…





6. Here’s the flexplate. Remove it.






7. Inspect the rear main seal. Mine was okay. Now is the time to replace if it is necessary.






8. Now time for the clutch…

Disassemble the clutch and lay out on a bench. Bolt the flywheel up to the crank. (Two people comes quite in handy now). Start all the bolts by hand and then torque to 102 ft. lbs.







Install disk, floater, disk per instructions on sticker.
Install alignment tool.
Make sure paint marks are aligned.
Install pressure plate and torque bolts to 20 ft. lbs.









Install started spacer using the allen head bolts provided.
Make sure that battery terminals are removed.



9. Now to the bellhousing… Remove the ball that holds one side of the fork and remove washer from behind then reinstall.
Install fork and release bearing..
Bolt bellhousing to adaptor plate. (You can reuse the transmission bolts)



10. Time to go open up the floor. We used the new boots to trace and then cut the carpet out and open up the floor with an air saw to allow room for the transmission..








Now time to stap the transmission. This is handy to have an extra set of hands. Also it is easier if you have the transmission in gear so you can turn the output shaft to better allow the input into the clutch. You will want to dab a very very small amount of grease on the input and a very small amount around the retainer. This process takes some wiggling back and forth. Eventually it will slide in. They say not to use the transmission bolts to pull it onto the bell housing. This is up to you…







96. NV4500 Swap. 1 3/8" Input. Upgraded Hydros. Valair Street Dual. KDP Tabbed. ISSPRO. AirDog DF-200. Hellmann Sump. BHAF. 8" Miter. No Plate. 60lb. Springs. 4k GSK. .022" DVs. .120 Holders. Pump Tuned. 17* timing...

Last edited by Diesel_Addiction; 09-17-2012 at 11:10 PM.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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11. Now reinstall the transfer case and fill. Hook up vacuum lines, speed sensor, vent, etc. The automatic T-Case linkage is different than the 5 speed T-Case linkage so bolt that on.





12. Install Driveshafts. The 47RE shaft will work in the rear just stick out about an inch longer, and the slip yoke will fit in a DLD from a 5 speed. We changed the u-joints and installed.








13. Reinstall crossmember and transmission mount. Auto mount, and auto crossmember will work but there is about a ” gap I found between transmission and mount. We made a spacer.




14. Now you can tackle the wiring which is really simple. There are three wires that you have to work with from the transmission wiring harness. Find the plug with three wires and cut it off. The center is black with a white stripe. If you want the cruise control to work you run this wire up to one of the wires on the clutch safety switch and connect it. The other wire on the CSS you take to ground. The other two wires on from the transmission harness you cut the plug off of you take to the plug on the top cover of the transmission. One is green and brown, and the other is purple and brown. Those two are for the reverse lights. It does not matter which goes to which just connect them. If you are not concerned with your cruise control, or do not have your CSS you can take the black wire with the white stripe to ground and your truck will start. I grounded it to a bellhousing bolt.



15. Now you can install the hydraulics. On the firewall you will find a circular plug which you need to remove and then it will allow you to install the master. You can install the master by pressing it and turning it into the firewall which will lock it in place. Push the hydraulic arm down under the truck and install into the bellhousing. Mount the reservoir on the firewall. If you lift the hood trim (that always falls off) you can see two spots where the factory mounts it. I just sent a self tapper through and secured it.





16. While near the hood I removed the tranny cooler and the rest of the lines. Along with the kickdown cable, and the TPS assemboly.



17. Now time to move into the cab. Fill the transmission. You have a few options Amsoil, Castrol Syntorque, Royal Purple, etc. It holds 8.5 pints. Or 4.25 quarts.



18. Now for the pedals. Remove the C-Clip and then pull out the rod that holds on the pedals. Remove the big brake pedal, put the small brake, and clutch pedal in its place, and then reinstall. This is a difficult process because of the position you have to put yourself in but it is possible just be patient. My brake switch needed adjustment. Make adjustments if necessary. Install clutch rod, if you have hydros with the adjustable rod you will need to adjust later so that the clutch starts to engage 2-3” from the floor.




19. Now you can install the shifter, and boots. It is a pretty self explanatory process. If you have the older style shift cover you will have to install it on the stub. It is then fastened in by a spring and locking collar which twists 90 degrees to lock in place.



20. You can now move onto removing the gear selector, and replacing the gauge cluster if desired. Take the plastic off of the steering column. The bottom has a torex style screw holding it together. Remove the plastic that covers the ignition switch. Now the gear selector will be revealed. Using a punch remove the pin holding it in and remove. Make sure that it stays in the park position, or the key will not be able to be removed from the ignition. I zip tied it up so I knew it would stay there and not slide down, causing problems down the road.







I then replaced the plastic with one out of a 5 speed truck which does not have the hole for the gear selector lever to go through for a cleaner look.
Then I moved on to the gauge cluster. Remove the black plastic trim piece and then the screw that hold in the cluster. Carefully unplug the two plugs for the gauges and remove. Reinstall the new 5 speed cluster. Verify that all the lights and gauges work, then reinstall all trim pieces.














At this point you’re done. Valair recommends a 500 mile brake in period on the dual disks, increasing the power moderately during that time with as much on and off the pedal driving as possible.

96. NV4500 Swap. 1 3/8" Input. Upgraded Hydros. Valair Street Dual. KDP Tabbed. ISSPRO. AirDog DF-200. Hellmann Sump. BHAF. 8" Miter. No Plate. 60lb. Springs. 4k GSK. .022" DVs. .120 Holders. Pump Tuned. 17* timing...
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 10:19 PM
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thats cool i hate my auto trans im going to swap out my cab, i was considering looking for a cab off a manual and switching it over to NV4500 because they are so much more durable then the 47RE, but that seems like a lot of work and money.

1995, NV4500, rclb, 2wd, afe stage 1 intake, 5" straight pipe, #100 fuel plate, 60psi valve springs, 4k GSK, ARP head studs, 5x12 injectors, south bend DD 3250, AFC tuned, airdog2 165
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah. It is definitely the best thing I have yet to do to my truck. The truck is once again fun to drive. The only issue I currently have is that my speedo does not work. I think I may have broke the speed sensor in the T Case.

96. NV4500 Swap. 1 3/8" Input. Upgraded Hydros. Valair Street Dual. KDP Tabbed. ISSPRO. AirDog DF-200. Hellmann Sump. BHAF. 8" Miter. No Plate. 60lb. Springs. 4k GSK. .022" DVs. .120 Holders. Pump Tuned. 17* timing...
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 01:30 PM
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Great thread Jon glad to see you finally got the tranny in!

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

97 2500 4x4 5 speed 19* pump timing, no fuel plate, tuned & modified AFC, ARP studs, II valve springs, comp cams keepers & retainers, 62/65/12-HT3B twins, 4K GSK, Valair Dual Disk, Isspro EV2 gauges
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpavao1066 View Post
Great thread Jon glad to see you finally got the tranny in!

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2
Thanks man.


Sent from my iPhone.

96. NV4500 Swap. 1 3/8" Input. Upgraded Hydros. Valair Street Dual. KDP Tabbed. ISSPRO. AirDog DF-200. Hellmann Sump. BHAF. 8" Miter. No Plate. 60lb. Springs. 4k GSK. .022" DVs. .120 Holders. Pump Tuned. 17* timing...
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 08:48 PM
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Awesome Writeup... subscribe.

-Sold-2001 QC Dodge 2500 lifted with little work.
04.5 CCSB dually. Nv5600. Industrial injection sticks, SB dd, afe intake, b&d boost fooler, autometers factory match gauges. Smarty Tntr
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steam65641 View Post
Awesome Writeup... subscribe.
Thanks man, just hoping to help people out if they wish to tackle the swap.

96. NV4500 Swap. 1 3/8" Input. Upgraded Hydros. Valair Street Dual. KDP Tabbed. ISSPRO. AirDog DF-200. Hellmann Sump. BHAF. 8" Miter. No Plate. 60lb. Springs. 4k GSK. .022" DVs. .120 Holders. Pump Tuned. 17* timing...
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012, 08:39 PM
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Im about to swap my 01. Been researching like crazy CF, FSM, guys at work that arnt stupid..trying to get smart enougb I will be able to handle it..

-Sold-2001 QC Dodge 2500 lifted with little work.
04.5 CCSB dually. Nv5600. Industrial injection sticks, SB dd, afe intake, b&d boost fooler, autometers factory match gauges. Smarty Tntr
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012, 08:48 PM
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Great writeup. That 2nd gen interior is starting to grow on me. atleast you dont have the woodgrain

1990 5 speed 2wd basic crap
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012, 09:45 PM
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this, is great!!

94, 4x4 12V auto-GUN METAL GREY- 5x.0105 injecors, .038DV's, Fuel heater delete, BHAF, #0 plate, 4ks, custom leaf pack, 99hd steering, kore coils, 2.5 kings, 503,000 and counting
Transmission everything but shafts
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 12:02 AM
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finally a swap thread!

94 2500 12v 4x4 reg. Cab long bed. #0 fuel plate ff, star wheel adjusted, s363 63/66 turbo, ats bigfoot e.m., 192 dv's, 150hp injectors, 60lb valve springs, 4k gsk, raptor 150 lp, nv4500 built by cotton diesel, valair dual disk, 5"mbrp tb.
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