Head bolt missing - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2020, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Head bolt missing

I was looking under the hood the other and day and couldnt believe it but i have a whole head bolt missing on exhaust side of cylinder 2.
How might this have happened?
how should i go about inspecting and fixing this?
am i at any danger of blowing a head gasket?
are there any side effects this could cause?


97 12 valve, 280k miles, 120 hp injectors, cut fuel plate, 5in straight pipe, afe air intake, boost elbow, firepunk trans
sweeney813 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2020, 04:38 AM
Cummins Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central Oregon Coast
Posts: 134
Thanks: 124
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
#1 would be to look down the bolt hole to determine if the bolt is MIA, or if it broke off.

1995 RAM 2500 Club Cab Laramie SLT 2 W/D 5.9 P-Pump w/ NV4500 3.54 Dana 80. Nearly stock. Timed @ 15.5* Currently 318,000 miles and counting.
dd453ford is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2020, 08:10 AM
Diesel Head
 
Stox225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lillington, NC
Posts: 1,762
Thanks: 54
Thanked 75 Times in 74 Posts
Garage
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Head bolt missing

The bolt probably got corroded and its strength was compromised.
I had an ARP stud break off in the exact spot. No clue ow long it was like that before I noticed. It took me another 2 months to get the correct replacement stud. My timing it set at 21*. Never blew the HG. That being said, I was VERY light on the throttle for those 2 months.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
24hrsparkey likes this.

1997 Cummins 2500; NV4500HD; SB DD; 315/75R16; Spohn Performance 3rd Gen Track Bar; Core 4x4 Adjustable Control Arms; 98-99HD Steering; Spohn Performance Steering Gear Box Stabilizer; 63/65/14; AFC Live; PDD 7mm DV's; 4 GSK; Mac Rack Plug; Custom Fuel System; PDD 5x.012; Colt Cam "Big Stick"; 60# Springs; PDD Stage 1 Push Rods; O-Ring Head; Head Studs; KDP Fix; Fluidampr; Boost/EGT/FP Gauges; BHAF; Interior Modifications
Stox225 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 04:03 AM
Cummins Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central Oregon Coast
Posts: 134
Thanks: 124
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
How did you get the remainder of the stud out without removing the head? Or did you remove the head?

1995 RAM 2500 Club Cab Laramie SLT 2 W/D 5.9 P-Pump w/ NV4500 3.54 Dana 80. Nearly stock. Timed @ 15.5* Currently 318,000 miles and counting.
dd453ford is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 09:10 AM
Diesel Head
 
Stox225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lillington, NC
Posts: 1,762
Thanks: 54
Thanked 75 Times in 74 Posts
Garage
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Head bolt missing

Quote:
Originally Posted by dd453ford View Post
How did you get the remainder of the stud out without removing the head? Or did you remove the head?


Because studs only go in hand tight, a reverse bit pulled it out pretty easy. Not sure how a head bolt would come out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1997 Cummins 2500; NV4500HD; SB DD; 315/75R16; Spohn Performance 3rd Gen Track Bar; Core 4x4 Adjustable Control Arms; 98-99HD Steering; Spohn Performance Steering Gear Box Stabilizer; 63/65/14; AFC Live; PDD 7mm DV's; 4 GSK; Mac Rack Plug; Custom Fuel System; PDD 5x.012; Colt Cam "Big Stick"; 60# Springs; PDD Stage 1 Push Rods; O-Ring Head; Head Studs; KDP Fix; Fluidampr; Boost/EGT/FP Gauges; BHAF; Interior Modifications

Last edited by Stox225; 01-25-2020 at 02:45 PM.
Stox225 is online now  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 12:03 PM
Cummins Enthusiast
 
Chrome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Preston County, WV
Posts: 250
Thanks: 1
Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
Weight reduction.


I'd be willing to guess this will have a domino effect. Better start saving for a gasket and stud set. Its a very easy job to do a cummins head gasket if you have a winch on your ceiling, do it before the heat lifts and warps the head.

2003 Dodge Ram 2500, QCSB, 4x4, Nv4500 w/ mainshaft, Valair clutch, Edge Evo2, AFE Bladerunner, ARP Studs, SRT10 Hood, Sport front, 285 Falkens. Laramie interior. 09 steering. Redhead + Borgenson 275,000 miles and counting + 2013 Ram 5500 4x4 6.7 aisin CC 11' bed
Chrome is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 12:21 PM
Diesel Head
 
ofelas.5z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,191
Thanks: 1
Thanked 243 Times in 218 Posts
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
Any lifting of the head, if at all, would have happened by now.

I wouldn't replace a factory installed head gasket that doesn't leak.

If the bolt can be extracted, clean up the threads, and install a new, oiled factory bolt.

Check the rest of the factory bolts' torque values, and call it a day. Check torque on the replaced bolt after a few heat cycles; easy enough as it's an exposed bolt.

Be easy with the skinny pedal and make sure the coolant is at least warm before driving, until then.

R12 in the summer, Webasto in the winter; cassette tapes & SAE-20078 all year.
ofelas.5z is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 01:10 PM
Cummins Enthusiast
 
Chrome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Preston County, WV
Posts: 250
Thanks: 1
Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by ofelas.5z View Post
I wouldn't replace a factory installed head gasket that doesn't leak.

If the bolt can be extracted, clean up the threads, and install a new, oiled factory bolt..

I agree if you can get the bolt out. If.

Whats your opinions on a factory gasket after 280k of wear? I replacement mine unnecessarily when I did my studs at 220k but I dont regret it.

2003 Dodge Ram 2500, QCSB, 4x4, Nv4500 w/ mainshaft, Valair clutch, Edge Evo2, AFE Bladerunner, ARP Studs, SRT10 Hood, Sport front, 285 Falkens. Laramie interior. 09 steering. Redhead + Borgenson 275,000 miles and counting + 2013 Ram 5500 4x4 6.7 aisin CC 11' bed
Chrome is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 01:26 PM
Diesel Head
 
ofelas.5z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,191
Thanks: 1
Thanked 243 Times in 218 Posts
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
If the gasket wasn't leaking, I would have bottom tapped & replaced with studs one at a time.

Unless you did head/valve work.

As far as mileage for replacement on a non leaking head gasket - so many variables...EGT, timing & drive pressures being the main influencers.

Studs are definitely easier to remove, as they're not torqued down into the head.

As far as a broken bolt - this is one area I wouldn't skimp on tools - it's well worth the cost to use a screw extractor that will not slip right after the appropriate drill bit, if only to remove user error as a variable.

Since it's an exposed bolt head, easy enough to soak with penetrating oil & apply a torch, if required. Shouldn't be an issue getting a factory bolt out, as they tend to snap off inside the head, rather than inside the block.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrome View Post
I agree if you can get the bolt out. If.

Whats your opinions on a factory gasket after 280k of wear? I replacement mine unnecessarily when I did my studs at 220k but I dont regret it.

R12 in the summer, Webasto in the winter; cassette tapes & SAE-20078 all year.
ofelas.5z is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 04:45 PM
The 10th Man
 
Cowboy303's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: 12 days north of hopeless, and a few degrees south of freezing to death.
Posts: 4,342
Thanks: 176
Thanked 880 Times in 668 Posts
Garage
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrome View Post
I agree if you can get the bolt out. If.

Whats your opinions on a factory gasket after 280k of wear? I replacement mine unnecessarily when I did my studs at 220k but I dont regret it.
The factory head gasket has been on so long and crushed so tight, from a power holding stand point, I don't think a new gasket will ever seal as well as the factory one, unless you O-ring or fire ring. I'm at 24 on my factory gasket doing 550hp with factory bolts. I doubt a new gasket would ever hold that.

Gandalf the Donkey Hauler - '96 2500 ECLB G56 SB-DD NP241CLD 3.54's, Firerings @ 160ftlb, PDD 4K GSK, PDD 5x18's @ 260, 025's, AFC Live, 28 Cogwheel, AFC Stop-Bolt, HO LP, TPP Manifold Blanket, P&P, Billet 56/64 HX35/GT45 W/Spring gate, EB, OBA, OBP, CC High Idle, BRA, Hotrod PS Pump, Str box brace, SuperSport Headlights, DIY GN Hitch, couple gauges. 733hp/1350tq at NWDC.

Shaughty - '95 2500 RCSB 2WD, PDD 850hp Trans, a lot less than 850hp.
Cowboy303 is offline  
post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2020, 11:55 PM
Cummins Enthusiast
 
Chrome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Preston County, WV
Posts: 250
Thanks: 1
Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboy303 View Post
The factory head gasket has been on so long and crushed so tight, from a power holding stand point, I don't think a new gasket will ever seal as well as the factory one, unless you O-ring or fire ring. I'm at 24 on my factory gasket doing 550hp with factory bolts. I doubt a new gasket would ever hold that.

Assuming a headgasket job is done with studs instead of bolts..
I Thought the purpose of head studs was to get a much firmer hold than stock bolts? Especially since they can be torqued to 150-170 PSI or more without stretching multiple times.

2003 Dodge Ram 2500, QCSB, 4x4, Nv4500 w/ mainshaft, Valair clutch, Edge Evo2, AFE Bladerunner, ARP Studs, SRT10 Hood, Sport front, 285 Falkens. Laramie interior. 09 steering. Redhead + Borgenson 275,000 miles and counting + 2013 Ram 5500 4x4 6.7 aisin CC 11' bed
Chrome is offline  
post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2020, 09:09 AM
Diesel Head
 
Stox225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lillington, NC
Posts: 1,762
Thanks: 54
Thanked 75 Times in 74 Posts
Garage
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrome View Post
Especially since they can be torqued to 150-170 PSI or more without stretching multiple times.

Depending on what you get, the standard ARP studs is a max of 125 ft-lbs per their instruction. You can go higher, but void any warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1997 Cummins 2500; NV4500HD; SB DD; 315/75R16; Spohn Performance 3rd Gen Track Bar; Core 4x4 Adjustable Control Arms; 98-99HD Steering; Spohn Performance Steering Gear Box Stabilizer; 63/65/14; AFC Live; PDD 7mm DV's; 4 GSK; Mac Rack Plug; Custom Fuel System; PDD 5x.012; Colt Cam "Big Stick"; 60# Springs; PDD Stage 1 Push Rods; O-Ring Head; Head Studs; KDP Fix; Fluidampr; Boost/EGT/FP Gauges; BHAF; Interior Modifications
Stox225 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome