Rebuilt cummins oil and coolant mixing...pulled head...questions - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-09-2019, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Rebuilt cummins oil and coolant mixing...pulled head...questions

I acquired a truck that the owner was fed up with. He put a rebuilt engine in it (blackwater) that was studded and after 4000 miles he had coolant and oil mix. I got the truck cheap. First thing i did was pressure test the oil cooler, which tested fine. so today I pulled the head. I am going to attach pictures... does this look normal? The gasket seems to be eaten away in places. Also is this a cummins gasket? How can I tell if it is a thicker than oem gasket?

He got screwed around a bit by the installer. That is why he didn't send it back to blackwater when it happened was my understanding. He had a lot of money into the truck and wanted to wipe his hands of it.

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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-09-2019, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-09-2019, 05:57 PM
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Looks like a wasp nest there....

Also, time to send it out and check if its flat.

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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-09-2019, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Pardon the nest lol truck sat all summer.
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-09-2019, 09:14 PM
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You can call Blackwater and ask them where they get their gaskets from, they might tell you. My guess is Interstate McBee.

Headgasket thickness depends on if the block was decked. How much piston protrusion do you have?

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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-10-2019, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAmes View Post
You can call Blackwater and ask them where they get their gaskets from, they might tell you. My guess is Interstate McBee.

Headgasket thickness depends on if the block was decked. How much piston protrusion do you have?
I don't have a way to measure this.

I dont know if it matters, but where the coolant passages are on the front passenger side of the block, there was pitting on the block and they used some kind of RTV so coolant wasn't leaking between the supply and return passage, as well as the edge of the block. To me, the block should have been scrapped but maybe no big deal.... rest of it looks fine.
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-10-2019, 01:22 AM
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Stock compressed thickness is around .060".

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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-10-2019, 03:02 AM
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Quality dial indicator with min. 0.00010 accuracy and magnetic base. Zero on block, measure on top of piston TDC.

Looks more like warped head or block, or cracked head into water jacket leaking coolant into crankcase. Never get a warped head to seal even by welding it on.
Can't tell feces from just looking at them.
Have a Cummins diesel machinist check the block and head. Gen 1s crack most often around exhaust valve/s
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-10-2019, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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So as far as how the actual gasket looks....are you guys saying its definitely a problem? In other words trying to read the gasket to determine problem areas?

I'll get on this other stuff too. Would any cracks in the head be visible with the naked eye or does it need to be magnafluxed?
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-10-2019, 10:28 AM
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Judging by the failures around the cylinder holes my guess is the studs were not installed/torqued correctly. Since you have the engine out I recommend you take the whole thing to a machine shop to get the deck checked for flatness, the head checked and the piston protrusion measured. Unless you are looking to build a high HP with lots of advanced timing engine studs are a waste of money. A good set of bolts torqued to factory specs will give you service at least to 350 HP and 17 degrees of advance.

You can't go wrong with a Cummins top side gasket set. It will have every gasket you need to reassemble the engine, with some left over.

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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-10-2019, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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The engine isn't out of the truck....

I'll send the head out to get checked and check the block for flatness myself. Gonna send Blackwater's the serial number to see if they will give me the specs on the rebuild.

Since I already have the studs no harm in reusing them right?

This was not a high horsepower application, and the truck did not tow a trailer. Also I know it probably doesn't matter but all of the stud nuts were tight. That is why I am trying to reas the gasket.... just to figure out the puzzle of what is going on
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-10-2019, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Also...since the problem was oil and coolant mixing, wouldn't that eliminate a cracked head? At least cracked in the valve seat area
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