97 Ram 2500 12v Series of issues - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 97 Ram 2500 12v Series of issues

Hey guys haven't been here for a while but ran into a series of issues with my 97 12v. Well to give you guys the whole scenario was driving the truck and all of the sudden truck shut off in the middle of the road. Had it towed back to my home and tried to diagnose it myself put the key in and crank and no start so at this moment i believed it was the fuel pump since it was not kicking on. I went ahead and checked the pump and it was working great so due to time constraints it sat for a month. I towed it to a shop in which they diagnose a bad crank sensor paid the guys 700 bucks drove it back home and notice erratic shifting and rpm still jumping up and down so i send it back to him.

Anyways issue did not resolve itself he said it was the tranny in which i doubt since it was build. Last night i checked it with the scanner and tps sensor code came up replaced the sensor and while it got somewhat better it still has some erratic shifting. What can i do from here??


1997 2500 ECLB BHAF, 7mm DV, ARP Studs, S363/S480, Hamilton 165 pound Springs with Titanium Retainers, Steed Speed T4, 0 plate, 5x18 Injectors 4gsk haisley 24 Deg timing, Custom intake horn, 5" straight pipe Boost Elbow,HID, Mag hytec pans, Fass 220
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 03:14 PM
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Okay, I've never known a crank sensor to keep a 12v from running.

What exactly is going on here?

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 03:22 PM
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A crank sensor won't keep a 12V from running, it could cause shifting issues and tachometer malfunctions though. My ECM went out in my '97 and the engine would still start and run great, but the transmission wouldn't work right and the tach was inoperable.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 03:44 PM
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My two cents: It was misdiagnosed, it never was the crank sensor, and to make matters even worse he put in a faulty crank sensor so you now have that problem on top of a fuel issue. Also - $700 for a crank sensor diag/install? Talk about highway robbery...

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownbear View Post
My two cents: It was misdiagnosed, it never was the crank sensor, and to make matters even worse he put in a faulty crank sensor so you now have that problem on top of a fuel issue. Also - $700 for a crank sensor diag/install? Talk about highway robbery...
That's what I was thinking. I initially thought he might have something faulty in the FSS system. And then whatever the shop did (other than robbing him) just compounded the transmission issues. Idk if the tps is anything like the 24Vs where it has a specific "idle" voltage either.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Well i knew it was way too high the truck starts and runs fine when initially didn't want to start i am at a lost i wont be taking it there anymore. I just want this issue fixed so i can go back to regular driving

1997 2500 ECLB BHAF, 7mm DV, ARP Studs, S363/S480, Hamilton 165 pound Springs with Titanium Retainers, Steed Speed T4, 0 plate, 5x18 Injectors 4gsk haisley 24 Deg timing, Custom intake horn, 5" straight pipe Boost Elbow,HID, Mag hytec pans, Fass 220
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 09:10 PM
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First off, that guy totally ripped you off.

Check the tachometer clearance on your damper. Should only be like 5 sheets a paper for clearance. Then in would bypass your TPS. There is a way to install a voltage regulator inplace of the TPS. The stock ones are nothing but issues. Just search for the modification. Also, sounds like your fuel shot off solenoid is the problem of why your truck shut down. Put a new one on if the mechanic did not.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-25-2019, 11:07 AM
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Can't help with the trans shifting issues but a no start condition would have me checking the #9 fuse and then the fss relay, I keep a spare relay in the glove box.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-25-2019, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nSaEvAyL View Post
First off, that guy totally ripped you off.

Check the tachometer clearance on your damper. Should only be like 5 sheets a paper for clearance. Then in would bypass your TPS. There is a way to install a voltage regulator inplace of the TPS. The stock ones are nothing but issues. Just search for the modification. Also, sounds like your fuel shot off solenoid is the problem of why your truck shut down. Put a new one on if the mechanic did not.
Using a driver's license or credit card to clearance the crank sensor works just fine. I use feeler gauges but I'm a "by the book" type.

Totally disagree about bypassing the TPS and that the stock ones are "nothing but issues." A genuine Cummins TPS works perfectly. Issues start to arise when the throttle linkage gets worn out and puts pressure on the TPS, leading to it getting wallowed out and acting erratically. When all of the linkage is tight and properly adjusted, the system works flawlessly as designed. I think the biggest negative with the Cummins TPS is that it is very expensive. Mine was over $200.

'97 3500 4x4 CC DRW, 4.10, Banks PP, BD tc, vb, eb, 60# springs, Torqloc, gauges, Weatherguard, B&W...
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Well I bought a factory tps from napa and I have the original crank sensor from cummins I did the credit card spacing and it got so much better but after 2k rpm the tach does go crazy. When I went to install the tps I notice that the metal bracket that was there cracked in half is it necessary and does someone have a diagram or install on it. Thank you again sorry just so busy with work

1997 2500 ECLB BHAF, 7mm DV, ARP Studs, S363/S480, Hamilton 165 pound Springs with Titanium Retainers, Steed Speed T4, 0 plate, 5x18 Injectors 4gsk haisley 24 Deg timing, Custom intake horn, 5" straight pipe Boost Elbow,HID, Mag hytec pans, Fass 220
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownbear View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nSaEvAyL View Post
First off, that guy totally ripped you off.

Check the tachometer clearance on your damper. Should only be like 5 sheets a paper for clearance. Then in would bypass your TPS. There is a way to install a voltage regulator inplace of the TPS. The stock ones are nothing but issues. Just search for the modification. Also, sounds like your fuel shot off solenoid is the problem of why your truck shut down. Put a new one on if the mechanic did not.
Using a driver's license or credit card to clearance the crank sensor works just fine. I use feeler gauges but I'm a "by the book" type.

Totally disagree about bypassing the TPS and that the stock ones are "nothing but issues." A genuine Cummins TPS works perfectly. Issues start to arise when the throttle linkage gets worn out and puts pressure on the TPS, leading to it getting wallowed out and acting erratically. When all of the linkage is tight and properly adjusted, the system works flawlessly as designed. I think the biggest negative with the Cummins TPS is that it is very expensive. Mine was over $200.

I couldn't get a feeler gauge near there very difficult I used a beat up credit card but i have no idea why you be able to adjust it the adjustment are very small if any less than an inch. You are not able to do too much with it

1997 2500 ECLB BHAF, 7mm DV, ARP Studs, S363/S480, Hamilton 165 pound Springs with Titanium Retainers, Steed Speed T4, 0 plate, 5x18 Injectors 4gsk haisley 24 Deg timing, Custom intake horn, 5" straight pipe Boost Elbow,HID, Mag hytec pans, Fass 220
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