Turbo Quit - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Turbo Quit

On the way home from a trip in the mountains of Colorado today, my truck just quit making boost and I had to accelerate with the swiftness of a fully loaded 18 wheeler just to keep my EGT's below 1200. I hadn't been driving it like I stole it or anything, and I am not sure how to troubleshoot this issue. I looked under the hood when I got home and didn't see anything that jumped out at me. How do I go about confirming my turbo is junk? It is the original HX35 I believe.


'97 2500 Club Cab SLT, Auto, DTT Smart Controller, 3" Carli Suspension Lift, Optix Trans Temp, EGT, and Boost Gauges, Tork Tek OFV, Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms, Synergy HD Steering Kit, 4.10 Gears, Toyo 315/75/16's, Posi-Lok CAD, AFC Live, FASS
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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 07:26 PM
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Have you checked to make sure there is no issues with the intercooler boots? Where they connect to the intercooler are real close to the inner fender and have had one rub a nice cut into it.

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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 08:23 PM
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Pull the intake hose off and check to see if the blades rub the housing.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles with un-additized diesel fuel. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 02:34 PM
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Have you checked to make sure there is no issues with the intercooler boots? Where they connect to the intercooler are real close to the inner fender and have had one rub a nice cut into it.
Also they are 20+ year old rubber if they've never been replaced (and they likely have not -- Old ones are perfectly good... right up until they aren't). Would expect to start seeing increasing numbers of failures of them here on the forum over the next few years. I replaced mine this past winter as I had the front end all apart anyway, and the originals definitely were starting to look a little cracked/rotten in a couple places.

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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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How does that pertain to a loss of boost? I thought the intercooler was for keeping the transmission cool.

Edit: Wow I should've looked that up before replying, I apologize. That's my next thing to check.

'97 2500 Club Cab SLT, Auto, DTT Smart Controller, 3" Carli Suspension Lift, Optix Trans Temp, EGT, and Boost Gauges, Tork Tek OFV, Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms, Synergy HD Steering Kit, 4.10 Gears, Toyo 315/75/16's, Posi-Lok CAD, AFC Live, FASS

Last edited by outofthebox; 10-14-2019 at 03:21 PM. Reason: Didn't research before posting.
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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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The blades are not rubbing the housing, they spin just fine by hand.

'97 2500 Club Cab SLT, Auto, DTT Smart Controller, 3" Carli Suspension Lift, Optix Trans Temp, EGT, and Boost Gauges, Tork Tek OFV, Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms, Synergy HD Steering Kit, 4.10 Gears, Toyo 315/75/16's, Posi-Lok CAD, AFC Live, FASS
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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Have you checked to make sure there is no issues with the intercooler boots? Where they connect to the intercooler are real close to the inner fender and have had one rub a nice cut into it.
I checked all 4 boots. The top 2 look to be aftermarket and in good condition, the bottom 2 look original. I test drove the truck and hear an air sucking/blowing sound different from the intake when I put a little foot in the pedal. I assume one of the bottom boots is bad. I plan to replace all 4 just because that's what most kits seem to have. Will update after I do so. Thanks for the help!

'97 2500 Club Cab SLT, Auto, DTT Smart Controller, 3" Carli Suspension Lift, Optix Trans Temp, EGT, and Boost Gauges, Tork Tek OFV, Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms, Synergy HD Steering Kit, 4.10 Gears, Toyo 315/75/16's, Posi-Lok CAD, AFC Live, FASS
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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 07:15 PM
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You know you can pressure test the system to look for leaks. A smoke machine is optimal, but most people don't have one. Some PVC and a schrader valve is all you need. I'm still running the original boots, but a very long time ago an experienced owner clued me to the inner fenders cutting them so I bent the sheet metal away with a pair of pliers. If you are hearing air escaping from the intake I suggest you make sure that every bolt is in place on the cover.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles with un-additized diesel fuel. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 01:09 PM
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I plan to replace all 4 just because that's what most kits seem to have.
Tip: A little hairspray on the boots can help get the clamps on. Huge pain with the clamps sliding off and swiveling around on the slick new silicone when trying to tighten them down. Found that tip on some ricer forum, I think, and it'd have saved me a lot of time.

Of course I'm bald as a cue ball so I don't know what the heck else I'm gonna do with this bottle of hairspray.
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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

After too much time unavailable to do any physical troubleshooting and much time for thought put in to the issue, I decided the smart thing to do would be to pressure test the system prior to any random parts purchases. I built a pressure test cap and I found a leak (the bubbles are kinda hard to see), but I have no idea what the fitting is called. The link below includes 3 pictures and shows the fitting from 2 angles, I believe the other end of the hose connects to the waste-gate actuator but I can't see. I appreciate any help!

https://imgur.com/a/NBGQP8I
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'97 2500 Club Cab SLT, Auto, DTT Smart Controller, 3" Carli Suspension Lift, Optix Trans Temp, EGT, and Boost Gauges, Tork Tek OFV, Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms, Synergy HD Steering Kit, 4.10 Gears, Toyo 315/75/16's, Posi-Lok CAD, AFC Live, FASS
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post #11 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 10:05 PM
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There has to be more of a leak than that to cause a no boost situation. You need to remove the brass elbow and put some teflon tape on it if its leaking.

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post #12 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Is there a trick for the pinch clamp? Can I reuse it?

'97 2500 Club Cab SLT, Auto, DTT Smart Controller, 3" Carli Suspension Lift, Optix Trans Temp, EGT, and Boost Gauges, Tork Tek OFV, Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms, Synergy HD Steering Kit, 4.10 Gears, Toyo 315/75/16's, Posi-Lok CAD, AFC Live, FASS
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