Transmission Instal - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Transmission Instal

So after waiting a few months I finally have a rebuilt transmission from PDD. I went to the one credible tranny shop in San Diego to see if they would install it and the guy initially said no. He said he has been screwed over too many times by installing someone else's product that fails leaving him to blame and repair. He told me to contact him in the morning after he has had some time to think. If he says no I am left with two options: find someone else or do it myself. Although I am no master mechanic, I feel I could do it but am just a little hesitant as if I mess up somewhere it would be an expensive goof. The tranny cost several grand. I have searched for a step by step post or video and have yet to find one. I have the service manual but find it to be confusing. If I do it myself tips are appreciated. I will follow-up tomorrow after I call the shop I went to today. Until then...


97 Dodge 2500 4x4, KDP Fix, BHAF, 3 in 1 glowshift gauge (boost, egt, fuel pressure), 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, 3k governor spring, boost elbow, afc live, tork teck 20 OFV, 650 hp rated transmission from PDD

Last edited by sdnative13; 07-08-2019 at 10:59 PM. Reason: grammar
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 08:17 AM
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I'd stay away from that shop, sounds like he's setting both of you up for failure.

You will be fine. It's not hard, just tedious if this is your first time.

Correct torque values on the flex plate to crank bolts as well as the converter to flexplate bolts are key. Use Blue Loctite on both the above.

Make sure your kick down cable is adjusted correctly after the install.

I'm assuming you're replacing the converter & flexplate as well?

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 09:33 AM
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You need a transmission jack. I bought mine but they can be rented. Having a helper who has done a transmission before would be a big plus.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 09:48 AM
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You will likely need a frame spreader to get the cross member out. Otherwise it's not too bad of a job.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by hemirunner426 View Post
You will likely need a frame spreader to get the cross member out.
By design all you have to do is remove the bolts then push the cross member up, then to the rear. A rubber mallet will usually suffice. Mine has been out and in so many times all I need is the heel of my hand to break it free.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. I talked to the owner this morning and he agreed to do it. I believe I could do it but it would probable take me a month due to work, kids, and skill level. This way its done in a few days and without me loosing my mind. Thanks again. Will let everyone know how it goes. Suppose to drop it off monday.

97 Dodge 2500 4x4, KDP Fix, BHAF, 3 in 1 glowshift gauge (boost, egt, fuel pressure), 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, 3k governor spring, boost elbow, afc live, tork teck 20 OFV, 650 hp rated transmission from PDD
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hemirunner426 View Post
You will likely need a frame spreader to get the cross member out.
By design all you have to do is remove the bolts then push the cross member up, then to the rear. A rubber mallet will usually suffice. Mine has been out and in so many times all I need is the heel of my hand to break it free.
I had to pound the one in my 98 in and out with a huge sledge hammer.

The one in my 94 came out by hand.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAmes View Post
By design all you have to do is remove the bolts then push the cross member up, then to the rear. A rubber mallet will usually suffice. Mine has been out and in so many times all I need is the heel of my hand to break it free.
The 2 I've done (94 & 97) I wasn't so lucky. I tried the rubber mallet up and to the rear. Neither of them budged. Both are rust free trucks too. My 94 surprised me as thought it would break free but it left me searching for a spreader.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 11:08 AM
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For the frame, a simple bottle jack and a some wood is all you need if the thumb detector won't do the job. Takes a couple minutes to do.

I'd go for a decent transmission jack, not the hazard fraud scissor jack. One that you can adjust the angle of the dangle is quite handy to have(whether you buy or rent).

This job is very easy to do with the right jack and on a level floor with no large cracks in it. If your floor has lots of cracks, throw a sheet of plywood down for the jack to roll on. Make sure to lift the truck high enough so the transmission on the jack will clear when pulling it out.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 11:57 AM
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I misspoke. The support needs to go up and forward, not aft. The FSM say to rotate it diagonally.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to follow up on my original post. So I have had the tranny in since last friday. I have put approximately 200 miles on it and it runs amazing compared to stock which slipped in low gears.
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97 Dodge 2500 4x4, KDP Fix, BHAF, 3 in 1 glowshift gauge (boost, egt, fuel pressure), 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, 3k governor spring, boost elbow, afc live, tork teck 20 OFV, 650 hp rated transmission from PDD
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 08:31 AM
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I like happy endings.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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