Advice from experienced Cummins brothers - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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Advice from experienced Cummins brothers

Hello guys so I have a chance to buy a 95 12v 2500 with 56000 thousand original miles for 12000 thousand is that a good deal interior is immaculate clean exterior nice truck is that year engine ,ppump, and brake system, good it's also a automatic

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post #2 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 04:35 PM
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Hello guys so I have a chance to buy a 95 12v 2500 with 56000 thousand original miles for 12000 thousand is that a good deal interior is immaculate clean exterior nice truck is that year engine ,ppump, and brake system, good it's also a automatic
and sisters...both my daughters have 12 valves...
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post #3 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry bro and sisters so what's your take on The question
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post #4 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 05:09 PM
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Given your question, I'd take someone with me that knows 12 valves well you can trust. My first purchase, because I knew little, was very expensive in the long run. Low mileage is great, but lots can happen in a short time.
There are many threads and stickies that talk about regarding what to look for, but it's a lot to get your head around if you are new to these trucks.
That's my 2 cents (3 with inflation)

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post #5 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 06:08 PM
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Low mileage is great, but lots can happen in a short time.

Let me put the twist of my experience on this...


Low mileage is great, but extended periods of sitting are just as destructive as abuse and neglect. Machines are designed to operate, not sit unused.
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'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.
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post #6 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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So with that being said you would pass or if everything looked solid you would go with it
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post #7 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 06:30 PM
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If its clean and looks good inside and out, I would not hesitate that truck at that price. There are alot of 300k mile beaters for the same money. Is it 4wd? Manual or auto trans?

1998 12v, 4x4, Club Cab, Carli, Thuren, BlueTop, Core 4x4, BD Diesel
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1995 Dually, Weston's 5x.016, 4k GSK, 5" FloPro, 255/85r16 Toyo M/T, Goerend, ARP, 60# Springs, BW 62/65/14, BW 75/96/1.10, Isspro, Fass 125, BDP Sump, 7mm DV's, 751 HP 1883 FP Torque on NOS
1998 P-Pumped 24v, 4x4, NV4500 swap
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post #8 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 07:22 PM
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So with that being said you would pass or if everything looked solid you would go with it
I personally would pass.

If stuff is seized up and seals are dried out, you wouldn't know the extent of it until you started driving it regularly. My concern would be the truck would run/drive fine for a few weeks and then you'd notice seals everywhere starting to weep, grease in the u-joints is likely oxidized and dry so there's a good chance of losing u-joints, or the driveshaft center support bearing after a few months. Same thing with the diff oil and the wheel bearings, I've seen trucks that sat develop rust on the parts of the wheel bearings that are not below the "waterline" of the oil in the hubs. Bearings in that condition would be making noise by the end of the drive home.

That, and you factor in the part where the motor isn't even broken in yet, and you couldn't safely turn it up past 350hp or so without taking the engine apart to open up the ring gaps, I'd honestly feel a lot better about a 200-300k truck that I know has been driven regularly. At that age, the engine's loosened up. She's ready to make good power without worrying about butting rings the first time you lay into it hard.

In either case, I feel 12k is too much for a 20-25 year old truck, no matter how pristine it is. Nobody I roll with has paid more than 5 or 6k. Not show trucks, mind, but what's the fun in something too shiny to use. To each their own, I guess.
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post #9 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Dauntless thank you for your advice it is much appreciated brother!!!!!! White lightnin it's a manual 2wd I dont no I might go with it and take a chance
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post #10 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 09:48 PM
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One of the worst vehicles I ever saw insofar as oil leaks are concerned was a 30+ year old Bronco II with, if memory serves, less than 30k miles on it. The thing was a gusher from every orifice. It had sat in a garage in Tahoe unused, and almost every single seal had dried out and was leaking once driven. The cost to replace every seal in the powertrain was extremely prohibitive.

Something else that's not talked about enough is ODOMETER FRAUD. It's real, and a lot of those "low mile" trucks you see on Craigslist are actually high mile.

'97 3500 4x4 CC DRW, 4.10, Banks PP, BD tc, vb, eb, 60# springs, Torqloc, gauges, Weatherguard, B&W...
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'92 CC D350 DRW sold '12 Laramie CC 3500 4x4 SRW sold
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post #11 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 09:52 PM
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...In either case, I feel 12k is too much for a 20-25 year old truck, no matter how pristine it is. Nobody I roll with has paid more than 5 or 6k. Not show trucks, mind, but what's the fun in something too shiny to use. To each their own, I guess.
I respectfully disagree. If I could find my truck again, with 95k miles on it for $12k, I would buy it in a heartbeat. In fact, I check Craigslist every week in the odd event that I might stumble upon a gently used, garage kept, pristine dually 4x4. I'd buy another.

'97 3500 4x4 CC DRW, 4.10, Banks PP, BD tc, vb, eb, 60# springs, Torqloc, gauges, Weatherguard, B&W...
'92 CC W350 DRW sold
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'92 CC D350 DRW sold '12 Laramie CC 3500 4x4 SRW sold
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post #12 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 11:49 PM
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I bought mine 4 years ago now with only 40k. When I went to LA to the Dodge dealer that was selling it, I looked over the truck on the lift as they wrapped up the front brake job on it, then took it out for a 45min drive. When I got back I discovered why it it was traded in (and likely why it had so little miles) as the IP had heat soaked and exhibited sticky P&B.s. Rare but not unheard of in 94-95 160HP engines.

It did give me a ton of leverage to wheel and deal on the truck so I went ahead and bought it. They paid for shipping and my flight back home.

I had a bit of replacement pump drama before I brought a 215HP 913 pump and sent it to Seth Farrel. Got that pump on set for 300cc and I drove the truck for another 10k on the original trans before I pulled it for one that was built for the power. I have the original one in my shed in excellent shape.

With that said I bought it fully aware that it could start leaking and showing typical issues from sitting. That is a real thing. It depends on how the truck was cared for while sitting. So far I've put almost 20k on the truck without so much as a drip from anything other than the typical slobber from the puke tube. If anything was going to fail it likely would of done so by now.

My experience says vehicles that sit neglected will show more weathering and decay then driven vehicles. Look it over closely for evidence of periodotic maintenance. If you pay close attention to its condition and say wow I'm a bit disappointed in the way it presents itself then it's probably best to walk away.

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91.0 D250 A727 w/ 216k on the clock. i/p replaced 20k ago, lift pump 2k, 1 turn fuel, 2 turns smoke, ground & polished AFC pin, timing bump, 366 spring 94 2500 4x4, 49k miles, Farrell Diesel rebuilt 215 pump, PDD 5x12 SAC, SXE 362, built 47RH
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