300-350 hp in a 1996 12 valve 3500 - Page 3 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #25 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Loud Pedal View Post
If I offended you, my apologies. I'm on my 3rd and 4th truck (both 215 pumps) and doing the freebies has not had an effect on the clutch driving conservatively. Hauling heavy or hot rodding is a different story. I know you can get 250 from a stock clutch with the free mods. I've done it....
That said, if you have bucks or drive aggressively or tow, then a clutch will be in your near future.

it's all about choices, $$, and driving habits.
You havenít offended me Iím just making sure the OP knows what to expect so he can make informed decisions. I will agree with you driving like a grandpa, light right foot and no towing will make a clutch live. However heís talking about power levels 50-100hp higher then yours, will be towing and Iím sure taking advantage of his new found power. Heíll need a clutch


-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel, zero chrome
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post #26 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nuljas23 View Post
You havenít offended me Iím just making sure the OP knows what to expect so he can make informed decisions. I will agree with you driving like a grandpa, light right foot and no towing will make a clutch live. However heís talking about power levels 50-100hp higher then yours, will be towing and Iím sure taking advantage of his new found power. Heíll need a clutch
I'm not sure how to respond to you. My goal was to provide the OP with what I had done and my experiences. Your interpretation is incorrect. I'm making the same power levels as what OP was wanting with a stock clutch (towing or not). When it's time to replace my clutch because it needs to be, I'll review options, but stock works (and has worked for several trucks). I too have taken advantage of the new power and hot rodded with no issues.

I've heard this story with trucks 1-3, and I still think a stock clutch, driven smartly, can be adequate...
Let's agree to disagree and give the OP his thread back

98-4x4 5spd
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post #27 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Loud Pedal View Post
I'm not sure how to respond to you. My goal was to provide the OP with what I had done and my experiences. Your interpretation is incorrect. I'm making the same power levels as what OP was wanting with a stock clutch (towing or not). When it's time to replace my clutch because it needs to be, I'll review options, but stock works (and has worked for several trucks). I too have taken advantage of the new power and hot rodded with no issues.

I've heard this story with trucks 1-3, and I still think a stock clutch, driven smartly, can be adequate...
Let's agree to disagree and give the OP his thread back
In the statement you just quoted i said I agree driven lightly itíll last.

Youíre contradicting yourself, before you were making 250hp with only very light driving and no towing. All of the sudden youíre making 300-350hp hot rodding all over town. So which is it?

The only thing Iím trying to do is inform the OP but you keep coming back at me with your unkillable factory clutches that now last at near double stock power while driving without reserve

-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel, zero chrome
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post #28 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 08:40 AM
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I wanna do another build.
Start off with a pristine stocker.
Then do it all over again, the smoke puking screamer is so passe, but I'm keeping it, a second turbo is out of the question too.

'98 Ram 3500 12v 4x4, triple disc/47RE, 3.54s, 275 70 17's, TT OFV, gauges, 16*, K27, 055, 5 x 0.011, AFC live, 3 pcs manifold, MBRP, AFE
'18 Promaster 1500 HT
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post #29 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:46 AM
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I wanna do another build.
Start off with a pristine stocker.
Then do it all over again, the smoke puking screamer is so passe, but I'm keeping it, a second turbo is out of the question too.
Agreed. That’s why I’m putting compounds on my ppumped 98.5 and tuning it conservatively. Driving by smoke and pyro sucks.

-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
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post #30 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nuljas23 View Post
In the statement you just quoted i said I agree driven lightly itíll last.

Youíre contradicting yourself, before you were making 250hp with only very light driving and no towing. All of the sudden youíre making 300-350hp hot rodding all over town. So which is it?

The only thing Iím trying to do is inform the OP but you keep coming back at me with your unkillable factory clutches that now last at near double stock power while driving without reserve
Apologies to all,
250 was suppose to be 350, but it was a beer fueled debate (on my end) that has gone sideways. Make what you want of the information.
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post #31 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 09:40 PM
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You will miss the fuel mileage.
I used to enjoy revving the motor.
Now after the acceleration, sweet sound and burst of speed I think of fuel used. Fun but no longer a cheap date.
Not me, I picked up about 3 mpg average after taking advantage of the free mods.

96 12 valve club cab lwb 2500 2wd 250k 3.55 gears, 265/75-r16, OFV at 30, no plate, AFC full fwd, HX35 at 35 psi boost, Timing~16.5, 5x11s, 2790 BHAF, Banks hi-flo muffler, 3.5" exhaust, Deleted prefilter & heater, mildly built 47re, billet single TC. KDPF
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post #32 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loud Pedal View Post
Apologies to all,
250 was suppose to be 350, but it was a beer fueled debate (on my end) that has gone sideways. Make what you want of the information.
Whoa, this is the internet!
We men do not make mistakes.
Beer is truth serum.
And most importantly,
It is all on the level.

'98 Ram 3500 12v 4x4, triple disc/47RE, 3.54s, 275 70 17's, TT OFV, gauges, 16*, K27, 055, 5 x 0.011, AFC live, 3 pcs manifold, MBRP, AFE
'18 Promaster 1500 HT
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post #33 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by hingis1320 View Post
well my original post was a little misleading, i do have an aftermarket MBRP 4 inch turbo back straight pipe and a K&N air filter system. but thats what i have been reading, that the clutch may have to be upgraded to keeep up with the horse power upgrades? i definitely plan on doing some towing with it.

The recipe i have been considering is:
KDP fix
3000 GSK
BHAF
adjust the pre boost screw
turn star wheel
change fuel plate (not sure to which one yet im still learnign about it)
mack rack plug (first i ever heard of this in my research so still learning too)
boost elbow
gauges

and then this recipe also claims to upgrade the clutch... but i have no idea to what. i was looking at south bend and i guess upgrading it to a 400hp rated clutch would be fine? I assume this recipe is putting me somewhere around 300 horse?
Decent recipe
KDP fix
3000 gsk
Junk the K&N, run a good air filter, BHAF or other.
Pre boost screw and star wheel are part of tuning a pump.
10 plate is good for towing.
Forget the Mack plug, your not looking for that much fuel.
Boost elbow to get you 30+ psi boost, 35 is about max for your HX35 turbo.
Gauges should be near the top of the list just under KDP fix.

I tow heavy, normally grossing 24-28k lbs, have very similar setup with 3k gsk, 10 plate and aftermarket turbo.
For heavy towing a clutch up grade is necessary but doesn't have to be a big step.
I'm running a stock pressure plate with a kevlar/ceramic disc from a local clutch builder.
Only enough fuel to get it rolling and use low range in the tcase when backing loads upgrade or on soft ground.
I'm sure I could blow through the clutch with a high rpm launch but that's not what I built the truck for.
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Mine-04 F-450 SCFB 4X4 drw,5.9 12v 215 Ppump,ZF 6,KYclutch,KDP fixed,gauges,5x12's,15deg,3k GSK,60#,AFC Live, Super B single,Pusher intake,D celebrator brake,07 coil spring front conversion.
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post #34 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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yeah i wont be towing those numbers, maybe very seldom but definintely not frequently.

As for gauges, what am i looking for?
Boost, EGT's? What else?

Thanks!
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post #35 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:45 AM
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Also fuel pressure and tranny temp if it’s an automatic

-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel, zero chrome
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post #36 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:56 PM
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Boost
EGT
Fuel pressure

Mine-04 F-450 SCFB 4X4 drw,5.9 12v 215 Ppump,ZF 6,KYclutch,KDP fixed,gauges,5x12's,15deg,3k GSK,60#,AFC Live, Super B single,Pusher intake,D celebrator brake,07 coil spring front conversion.
Her's-18 F-150 STX SC, 4x4, 5.0
Toy- 64 Fairlane, future 406FE, 3 Holley 2bbls, 4 spd
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