300-350 hp in a 1996 12 valve 3500 - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 02:34 PM
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You’ll need a new clutch regardless of hauling or not, stock ones don’t hold up to even small power increases very well. Valair’s Kevlar/ceramic single disc is a good clutch but it’ll be a little grabby backing a trailer up


-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel, zero chrome
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post #14 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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nuljas

ill check for those numbers, thank you!
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post #15 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Nuljas

ohhh ok, well thank you, i was looking for a definite answer on whether a stock clutch would hold up or not. some people say they will, some say they wont. i mean just from what i read about the stock clutch, it definintely doesnt sound like it would hold up so i just wanted to get another answer. thanks man big help!
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post #16 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 03:42 PM
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At the power you’re after there’s no doubt you’ll need a clutch. If you call Valair they’ll tell you what clutch will best suit your needs. An organic dual disc is another good option if you don’t do any boosted launches or sled pulls

-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel, zero chrome
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post #17 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 05:17 PM
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grabby clutch in reverse can be cured by a 2wd low kit that locks out front wheel drive in low. No more clutch in/ clutch out... it will crawl back at about 1.3mph unless you give it fuel.


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post #18 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 07:17 PM
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Since you are thinking of ditching the K&N (good plan) I suggest you get a base oil sample before you switch to whichever BHAF you choose. Silica is the death of these engines and not choosing an efficient filter will cut the life of the engine in half.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #19 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuljas23 View Post
Youíll need a new clutch regardless of hauling or not, stock ones donít hold up to even small power increases very well. Valairís Kevlar/ceramic single disc is a good clutch but itíll be a little grabby backing a trailer up
I disagree...I've done the free upgrades, added fuel plate, boost elbow and had no issue with stock clutches at over 200k....It's your right foot or towing heavy that will dictate needing to upgrade. Certainly when you need a new clutch, pick something north of stock, but I would not replace a good clutch unless you drive with a heavy foot

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post #20 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Loud Pedal View Post
I disagree...I've done the free upgrades, added fuel plate, boost elbow and had no issue with stock clutches at over 200k....It's your right foot or towing heavy that will dictate needing to upgrade. Certainly when you need a new clutch, pick something north of stock, but I would not replace a good clutch unless you drive with a heavy foot
My experience has not been the same. I personally would replace it, he says heíll be towing and the last thing you want while towing a load away from home is to lose a clutch or have mechanical problems of any kind. Why risk it?

-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel, zero chrome
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post #21 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 09:11 PM
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make the adjustments and play with it and see what happens. It may need to be replaced, but tossing 500+ labor on a clutch is not something we all can do. I can still tow a 3 horse gooseneck easily with a stock clutch. Now that said, I'm an old geezer (the one you never want to get behind) and drive lightly on the right foot....
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post #22 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 09:25 PM
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If you don’t have the money to replace something like a clutch then you probably shouldn’t be adding a significant amount of power to your truck in hopes the clutch will hold
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-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel, zero chrome
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post #23 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 09:39 PM
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You will miss the fuel mileage.
I used to enjoy revving the motor.
Now after the acceleration, sweet sound and burst of speed I think of fuel used. Fun but no longer a cheap date.

'98 Ram flatbed 3500 12v 4x4, triple disc/47RE, 3.54s, 275 70 17's, TT OFV, gauges, 16*, K27, 055, 5 x 0.011, AFC live, 3 pcs manifold, MBRP
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post #24 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by nuljas23 View Post
If you donít have the money to replace something like a clutch then you probably shouldnít be adding a significant amount of power to your truck in hopes the clutch will hold
If I offended you, my apologies. I'm on my 3rd and 4th truck (both 215 pumps) and doing the freebies has not had an effect on the clutch driving conservatively. Hauling heavy or hot rodding is a different story. I know you can get 250 from a stock clutch with the free mods. I've done it....
That said, if you have bucks or drive aggressively or tow, then a clutch will be in your near future.

it's all about choices, $$, and driving habits.

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