Has anyone de-computerized a 12 valve??? - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 10:55 PM
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Is something wrong with the heading, your asking about the de-computerizing a 12v but apparently you actually have a 24v that your putting in a 96 frame.
Or am I reading the beginning post wrong.


Mine-04 F-450 SCFB 4X4 drw,5.9 12v 215 Ppump,ZF 6,KYclutch,KDP fixed,gauges,5x12's,15deg,3k GSK,60#,AFC Live, Super B single,Pusher intake,D celebrator brake,07 coil spring front conversion.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAmes View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by myother4x4isaCJ7 View Post
You can hide a vacuum canister in the car somewhere and that will also help them work more consistently. Same thing cars with big cams use to make power breaks work.
It is also something the '96 and earlier owners could do. I've seen several home made ones, one incorporated a couple feet of 4" PVC. The plan is to restore it to as stock as possible, including the 6 volt positive ground electrical. Somewhere to hide a canister would be a challenge.
Gas models actually had one under the cowl. I used it until I converted to Hydroboost.

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 08:19 AM
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Aha! That’s where that vacuum line goes...
Was cleaning up vacuum and wiring along the firewall and wondered why there was a vacuum line up into the rain tray on the right side. Also explains why it was holding vacuum so long when I was hunting an audible leak. Thanks.

1996 2wd 5speed, AFC Live and boost elbow ,otherwise stock.

1996 2500 4x4 5 speed. Bone stock
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 11:50 PM
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I got pissed at the wiring and dash in my 95 with 47RH, so I removed it all including the PCM and put in internal regulator from Larry B's in the stock denso alternator. Built a power distro box with all White Rodgers 100amp relays to standardize parts and centralize them as well.

My "run" switch signals a relay that supplies the following:
1. field on alternator
2. power to instrument panel(autometer gauges)
3. low amp "hold" wire on fuel shutoff solenoid
4. power to transmission. both OD and lockup are grounds.

my start button signals a relay that:
1. supplies power to high amp "open" wire on fuel solenoid
2. supplies power to starter solenoid

For my OEM lights, I've got two switches currently.
1. parking and lowbeams (I've never once been in a situation where I absolutely needed just my parking lights)
2. highbeams

wipers...
one switch for slow,
one for fast(with a push button in parallel for momentary operation
(I still have the intermittent wiper controller and am probably going to use it, because this cureent set up is not ideal. )

push button signaling two 100 amp relay, each of which go to a grid heater.

So far I've learned a good bit in doing this and am learning more as I go. I don't have the speedo or fuel guage installed yet. If i can't get the fuel gauge to work with oem sending unit, Ill just use a different one. But, I'm expecting the speedo to be tricky. I have the autometer diesel tach adapter that runs off alternator(just need to calibrate it)

For my AC, I plan on having a toggle with the pressure cutoff switches wired in series to the compressor clutch. I'm using two Spal blowers... one for vent/AC, and one for defrost only. that way I don't have any flapper doors and a ridiculous heater core/ evaporator housing.

Anyways, I'm very pleased so far
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 04:37 AM
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I don't know why one would need to re-invent A/C controls. All the non electronic ones just run off a thermostat, turns the compressor on/off as needed.

86 F350 CC dually, RTO610, 3.32 final gears 93 5.9 (ex F600) basically stock,THD pin, Aftermarket AFC spring, re-set injectors. tuning in progress
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 10:28 AM
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His description of the A/C control circuit is the same as factory, except the PCM provides the ground instead of a toggle switch.

Thermostatic A/C operation is actually the more modern approach, at least on vehicles in the US market. Up until the 90s the vast majority used a low-side cycling switch with a high-side safety.

'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.
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