94 dodge - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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94 dodge

I have a 94 dodge 12v with 331k miles on it. The truck has problems starting recently. If I leave the truck sit over night it won’t start in the morning unless I hav my foot on the gas pedal. It will roll over a few times and then blow some white smoke and eventually start up. Once it is warmed up I can turn it off and then it will start back up fine. I had this issue once before and found out the batteries were wrong and they didn’t hav enough juice to start it when it wasn’t plugged in but now it’s warmer out and it came back. Please help thank you!

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 02:22 PM
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Next time before starting it after it has sat for at least a hour crack open the bleeder and manually pump the LP and watch for air bubbles to come out. Sounds like your sucking air into the fuel system between the LP and fuel tank module.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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So if that work what would I do to fix that
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 02:32 PM
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Find any rubber fuel lines that look old and cracked and replace them, a diesel engine doesn't like to drink diesel with air.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 03:35 PM
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Do you have the owners manual? In the '97 manual it plainly states " Temps below 66F (19C). After the starter has engaged depress the accelerator pedal 1/4 of the way to the floor and hold until the engine starts." If your hard starts are the result of air it would be a problem all the time, not just the first start of the day. Rather than chasing that rabbit, try a little pedal in the morning and make sure your idle RPM is at the correct speed.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 03:41 PM
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Do you have the owners manual? In the '97 manual it plainly states " Temps below 66F (19C). After the starter has engaged depress the accelerator pedal 1/4 of the way to the floor and hold until the engine starts." If your hard starts are the result of air it would be a problem all the time, not just the first start of the day. Rather than chasing that rabbit, try a little pedal in the morning and make sure your idle RPM is at the correct speed.
How many times do you need to let it crank after giving it 1/4 pedal so he knows if he should chase the rabbit again?

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 04:07 PM
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Do you have the owners manual? In the '97 manual it plainly states " Temps below 66F (19C). After the starter has engaged depress the accelerator pedal 1/4 of the way to the floor and hold until the engine starts." If your hard starts are the result of air it would be a problem all the time, not just the first start of the day. Rather than chasing that rabbit, try a little pedal in the morning and make sure your idle RPM is at the correct speed.
I never have to hold the go petal when starting. Even when it's 14*, fires right up, takes like an extra revolution to fire though.

It only does that when it's super cold.

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 04:12 PM
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I never have to hold the go petal when starting. Even when it's 14*, fires right up, takes like an extra revolution to fire though.

It only does that when it's super cold.
Same with both of mine I can start them on first crank with no pedal down to freezing temps. Just like the gridheaters aren't needed until the temps are close to freezing. The only reason they are used above freezing is to reduce smoke on cold start.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 04:26 PM
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I never have to hold the go petal when starting. Even when it's 14*, fires right up, takes like an extra revolution to fire though.

It only does that when it's super cold.
Same with both of mine I can start them on first crank with no pedal down to freezing temps. Just like the gridheaters aren't needed until the temps are close to freezing. The only reason they are used above freezing is to reduce smoke on cold start.
Pretty much. My truck has to start so it can jump all the 6.0s and 7.3s that won't start below 15*.

Pretty evident those trucks depend on the preheating system way too much.

My 98 smokes on start-up because the gird heater doesn't work. It fired up after sitting 2 months first try with a jump pack and 2 dead batteries. 20* no grid heater. Didn't really like it though

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 10:18 PM
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I never have to hold the go petal when starting.
And you have your idle set to spec. If the idle is low, adding a little pedal makes up the difference. In addition, the manual is written to cover more than one or two engines. They don't all start like yours does. I discovered that sentence early in my ownership, because when new it did require a little pedal when it was cold.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 10:36 PM
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Actually my idle is a little low now, I need to adjust it up a bit.

I've driven a bunch of 2nd gen twelvers and none needed any go petal to start.

I'd assume governor springs and AFC adjustmenta will affect starting a bit.

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 10:46 PM
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I've driven a bunch of 2nd gen twelvers and none needed any go petal to start.
You never drove mine when it was new. Now it will start with no pedal, but I have my idle set to 900. Out of habit I still add pedal though.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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