p7100 pump disassembly / rebuild - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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p7100 pump disassembly / rebuild

All rightly, who has taken apart a p7100 pump?
I've got mine all stripped down for the most part but im stuck at the camshaft. I have the parts diagram but it doesn't exactly show how the governor spring assembly piece comes off the cam. I know it threads on the camshaft but i cant seem to get it off. Do i need to double up the nut on the other side so i can get a good torque on it? Am i missing something? I know if i get that off then you remove the snap ring and the cam should come out. Any help is greatly appreciated. And please don't say take it to a shop


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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 08:43 PM
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short of buying the proper tools (IF you can find them) you could probably make a socket to pull the gov assy from the cam.

Then once your that far, your still FK'd as far as getting the cam out of the pump body without the proper spring compressors. The cam DOES NOT just slide out! Note the 6 small brass plugs on the side of the pump, these are the holes in which the spring compressors go into, which of course compresses the lifter springs and allows you to pull the cam out.

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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yea i made me a tool for the gov assem to pull that off but it doesnt seem to want to budge. Ill get it. I got all my tools from Rocken Tech - they ROCK!
Ahhh its called a flyweight - I knew that Must be more of that F'in locktight.

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 10:45 PM
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The flyweight assembly is a tapered shaft fit with no keyway. Remove the slotted nut and you can pull the weights off by hand. You will need a special puller to remove rest of the assembly from the camshaft. You will need special tools to lift the tappet assemblies and unload the camshaft before removal. And this is all just for starters.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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OK so after you pull the barrels out the plungers stay in there, how do you get the plugers out? looks like they are just sitting in the control sleeves which is attached to the rack. but i don't see how they are attached.
Also here are some great pics if anyone wants them.

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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 08:04 PM
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You have to remove the camshaft & lifters to remove the plungers. Keep all parts together and sorted so they go back into the same holes- including the timing shims.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 11:20 PM
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just wondering how you made out Chickencum?

Preboost screw bottomed out, gutted afc. Custom plastic bag over airfilter, No gauges. Delivery valves removed, 9.5 X 23.25 injectors, Turbo removed. silencer ring port and polished to stage 1.5
she roals the coal... and a tire on fire in the bed.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2011, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Very good. Definitely helps to have the right tools and just make sure you keep everything in order of where it all goes. It's a little tricky holding up all the lifters in order to pull the cam. Other than that its just like building a mini engine.

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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2011, 11:49 AM
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Are you able to purchase the parts like the plungers and barrels to do a complete diy rebuild??
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2011, 12:15 PM
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once you get it rebuilt, are you sending it to a shop to have them put it on a test bench to have it calibrated? or do you have one of those expensive pieces in your shop at home?

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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2011, 04:19 PM
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I ask, since I have an old one sitting on the bench at home, was gona take her apart, all new seals and orings, that kit is like 50 bucks off ebay. And if it does need anything major I will pick that up, as long as it is cost efective. Slap her all back together, and then take it in to get adjusted, at 120 labor, talked to the guy that works on them at one place and says 2hr max on test bench. then I will have a benched pump sitting waiting for me to use.

Preboost screw bottomed out, gutted afc. Custom plastic bag over airfilter, No gauges. Delivery valves removed, 9.5 X 23.25 injectors, Turbo removed. silencer ring port and polished to stage 1.5
she roals the coal... and a tire on fire in the bed.
B O T T S R . COM
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 12:07 AM
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chicken cum..also the white part of the egg. just something to think about next time you don't have scrambled...

rande

1996 2500 clb cab long bed auto, stock airbox with stock filter, no fuel plate, tranny holding fine. Recon L E D taillights an 3rd brake light. isspro gauges, boost, pyro, trans temp, AND MBRP 4inch exhaust, no tip.
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