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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Help a noob

1995 ram 2500 Cummins

here goes.


I just bought my truck she is bone stock from Tennessee. I want to give her some life. I have done some research and this is where I would like to go with her.

Foundation:
Kdp
Exhaust 5"
Bhaf
Gauges
4k gsk
60# valve springs
Coolant bypass
Head studs
South bend clutch
O-ring the head while it is off??
Intercooler??
Cam??
Tranny imput shaft??
Anything else??
Air:
Stock hx35 + ht3b
Fuel:
AFC tuning
#10 fuel plate
90hp injectors
Timing 15-16 btdc

Questions:
Where would that bring me in terms of hp??
Egts should stay within tolerable levels??
Will my injection pump push enough fuel with the free upgrades??
Where does turbo piping go and in what order??
How long will it last??
How will it drive??
How do I know what gears are in the diffs??


I hope I don't come across as demanding just trying to be concise. Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.


1995 2nd gen
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 08:33 PM
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You haven't done much research, your list sucks. For the majority I have to ask why? Why a 5 inch exhaust, why 90 hp injectors (and what are 90 hp injectors?), why a BHAF, why 15-16 timing, etc, etc. Checking the KDP and installing gauges are the only things on the list that make sense. What is your goal? How will the truck be used?

Here is a current thread, same subject. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...asic-mods.html

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Easy pal. Just making an honest attempt at learning. I am a landscaper so light to mid level towing. I also do a lot of personal driving, so a truck that can tow and get out of its own way. From what i have read the bhaf is a cheap way to improve air flow. Exhaust to also improve air flow 5" because I like the deeper note it produces over a 4". Thanks for your reply.

1995 2nd gen
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 10:14 PM
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Next to none of that stuff is needed for light towing or just to improve drivability. You don't know what 90 hp injectors are do you? Your differential gear ratio might be listed on the decal under the hood next to the latch. If not, spin the tire over one time and count how many times the driveshaft rotates. Cheap airflow depends on the definition of cheap, and the stock exhaust will flow more than the HP gains of the list you provided. Is your goal just to spend money or do you have a plan?

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 10:24 PM
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EDIT: A little late, meant for this to be post #3 not #5.

You really do need to define your goals, your intended mods point towards a spirited tow rig, though the 5" kinda throws a wrench in that.

You may consider building the truck slowly as you become more familiar with it and some of the mods you plan for it.

For your questions:

Where would that bring me in terms of hp??

Depends on tuning, 450-500hp should be achievable.

Egts should stay within tolerable levels??
Depends on tuning, a higher HP tune will run hotter than a cool'n clean tune. You should be able to get a 400hp cool'n clean towing tune.

Will my injection pump push enough fuel with the free upgrades??
No, but that's what the 4k gsk's, #10 plate, and injectors are for. What you gotta worry about is the lift pump, look into the D89 lift pump mods.
While we're on the topic, the #10 plate is a good towing plate, but not much for a fun plate. You also got to be careful with it cause it will make you think the engine doesn't like to be revved, so you end up trying to pull grades at too low of an RPM.

Where does turbo piping go and in what order??
You really should do a little more research before digging to deep into her.


How long will it last??
Depends on how you drive it. The main concern being the NV4500.

How will it drive??
That will depend on tuning, but you've got the base for a fun tow rig.

How do I know what gears are in the diffs??
There's a data tag under the hood. Or, what are your RPM's at 65 MPH? 1900RPM = 3.54. 2200 = 4.10.


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Last edited by Cowboy303; 09-21-2017 at 10:36 PM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Why is the exhaust a bad idea? I don't want a race truck. I guess when it comes down to it I want a truck that looks nice and has some guts to back it up but not so far as to make it disfunctional or unreliable. Thanks for the other info turbo diagram is super helpful.

1995 2nd gen
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 11:14 PM
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The 5" exhaust is simply not needed for this power level but if you want it then you can obviously put that system on.

HP rated injectors mean nothing in this world. Good injectors will be indicated by hole size with stock being 5x.008 or somewhere around that range. For 450HP a good set of 5x. 012 will get you there with some room to spare.

I would highly consider doing this a step at a time. You will gain knowledge doing it that way. Remember all this needs to work in unison to obtain your goal.

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91.0 D250 A727 w/ 216k on the clock. i/p replaced 20k ago, lift pump 2k, 1 turn fuel, 2 turns smoke, ground & polished AFC pin, timing bump, 366 spring 94 2500 4x4, 49k miles, Farrell Diesel rebuilt 215 pump, PDD 5x12 SAC, SXE 362, built 47RH
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 11:16 PM
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It's a 175HP engine, correct? You'll need to consider a set of delivery valves to run a larger injector. I think a 181 would be a good match or take a look at PDD delivery valves.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hemirunner426 View Post
It's a 175HP engine, correct? You'll need to consider a set of delivery valves to run a larger injector. I think a 181 would be a good match or take a look at PDD delivery valves.

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Correct the engine is 175 horse. The differences in horse power from year to year is due to the internals of the p-pump right??

1995 2nd gen
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 08:07 AM
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The difference in the HP output is the Injectors, DV's, and tuning. There are some other small differences between the years as well, but don't have much if any effect on HP.

Nothing wrong with a 5" pipe, it's just that people that tow a lot typically appreciate a quiet truck.

As for your parts list.

Kdp YES!!!
Exhaust 5" I'd just straight-pipe the stock 3".
Bhaf As long as your install it without completely screwing up, I don't see a problem with it.
Gauges CHESS!!!
4k gsk Good idea if your stock GSK's don't rev past 2700.
60# valve springs Needed if you plan on an exhaust brake, or pulling past 3000 RPM.
Coolant bypass This one's up to you, but with your goals in mind, it's likely not needed.
Head studs There are alternatives such as just retorquing the stockers or SHCS, but whatever floats your goat.
South bend clutch I've had good luck with valair as well, but that's up to you. Which clutch were you planning on?
O-ring the head while it is off?? Why is it coming off? The stock gasket with a little help can hold some decent power, once you need to replace the gasket, a little port work and O-rings may be a good idea.
Intercooler?? Stocker should do you fine.
Cam?? I wouldn't bother.
Tranny input shaft?? The clutch you get may decide that, but if you wanna keep your options open for compounds, it's probably a good idea.
Anything else?? Like mentioned, you'll need to do something about your lift pump.

Air:
Stock hx35 + ht3b
I'd hold off on the compounds at first, you may decide you don't need them. A lot of people underestimate exactly how much pull the stocker is capable of. It's also a good idea to play with tuning and get a feel for it before throwing another turbo into the mix.

Fuel:
AFC tuning
Yes and lots of it.
#10 fuel plate Like say, I'd do either the AFC stop bolt mod, or a #100 plate.
90hp injectors Please read up on injectors, the "XXHP Injectors" terminology is misleading, and it's only purpose is to sell low quality injectors to unsuspecting people who just want HP. You wanna get the real deal? Pick the ones you want by hole count and size. In your case, a 90hp injector is around a 5x12, which is a good size for your build, but if you know you'll be doing compounds and you wanna get everything you can out of them, then you may want to upsize them to a 5x13 or 5x14.
Timing 15-16 btdc You used the '' symbol....

Yes Tony, I stole it. And yeah 15-16 is a good starting point.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboy303 View Post
The difference in the HP output is the Injectors, DV's, and tuning. There are some other small differences between the years as well, but don't have much if any effect on HP.

Nothing wrong with a 5" pipe, it's just that people that tow a lot typically appreciate a quiet truck.

As for your parts list.

Kdp YES!!!
Exhaust 5" I'd just straight-pipe the stock 3".
Bhaf As long as your install it without completely screwing up, I don't see a problem with it.
Gauges CHESS!!!
4k gsk Good idea if your stock GSK's don't rev past 2700.
60# valve springs Needed if you plan on an exhaust brake, or pulling past 3000 RPM.
Coolant bypass This one's up to you, but with your goals in mind, it's likely not needed.
Head studs There are alternatives such as just retorquing the stockers or SHCS, but whatever floats your goat.
South bend clutch I've had good luck with valair as well, but that's up to you. Which clutch were you planning on?
O-ring the head while it is off?? Why is it coming off? The stock gasket with a little help can hold some decent power, once you need to replace the gasket, a little port work and O-rings may be a good idea.
Intercooler?? Stocker should do you fine.
Cam?? I wouldn't bother.
Tranny input shaft?? The clutch you get may decide that, but if you wanna keep your options open for compounds, it's probably a good idea.
Anything else?? Like mentioned, you'll need to do something about your lift pump.

Air:
Stock hx35 + ht3b
I'd hold off on the compounds at first, you may decide you don't need them. A lot of people underestimate exactly how much pull the stocker is capable of. It's also a good idea to play with tuning and get a feel for it before throwing another turbo into the mix.

Fuel:
AFC tuning
Yes and lots of it.
#10 fuel plate Like say, I'd do either the AFC stop bolt mod, or a #100 plate.
90hp injectors Please read up on injectors, the "XXHP Injectors" terminology is misleading, and it's only purpose is to sell low quality injectors to unsuspecting people who just want HP. You wanna get the real deal? Pick the ones you want by hole count and size. In your case, a 90hp injector is around a 5x12, which is a good size for your build, but if you know you'll be doing compounds and you wanna get everything you can out of them, then you may want to upsize them to a 5x13 or 5x14.
Timing 15-16 btdc You used the '' symbol....

Yes Tony, I stole it. And yeah 15-16 is a good starting point.



I was thinking south bend's street dual disk kit.
The head gasket I just didn't want to end up with a time bomb but if they will last a while... Are there other options for the lift pump other than aftermarket like fass or airdog?? The compound turbo setups from what I have read cut egt's a good chunk which is the main goal I wanted to achieve from them. What is the stock turbo capable of??
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1995 2nd gen
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 08:25 AM
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For the lift pump, https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...-escapade.html

It's hard to say what the stocker is capable of, I mean, I could give you a number, but numbers don't get you to the top of a hill. You're not going to be breaking the tires loose at will, well, unless it's raining, in which case, you basically can. But it's enough HP that when towing, I've never said to myself "man, I wish I had more HP".

I am in no way dissing compounds or trying to convince you not to get them. All I'm saying is that plenty of people get caught up in the numbers game, and don't realize how much power can be made without many modifications. And if you get to that point, and decide you want more, then throw the compounds on there! You'll have much more hands on knowledge on how to tune everything, and a better vision of what your end goals will be so you can pick a primary that may meet your needs better. I basically spent two years getting my truck driveable, during that period I had all sorts of time to think of all the crap I wanted to do to it. I know for a fact that if I had bought everything and bolted it up in one go, I wouldn't have been nearly as happy with the results as I would if I had done what I'm currently doing which is slowly throw crap into it for the last 3 years, learning as I go.


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