97 dodge ram 2500 rear brake retrofit - Page 3 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 03:09 PM
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Do it. They are the best thing next to dual piston calipers or a hydra-boost setup if you do not have one.



Joys of free speech. I can and will comment my opinion at will. Don't like it, too bad.
I went with all stainless hard lines a few years ago, they are still shiney and as gorgeous as when I installed them despite being on a plow truck.

I have a hydrobooster in the garage for when I change steering box, pump, and rebuild the vacuum pump.
Not looking forward to bleeding brakes again.

I also love it when people get all offended because they didn't realize drum brakes are stronger before the spend $1000 on a disc brake swap, then they can't get their parking brakes to work.

I like the firm high pedal that drums give,. I hate having to push the pedal almost all the way down on 4w disc cars and trucks.


Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 04:14 PM
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I want to try and find a way to use dual piston calipers on the front without getting crazy with knuckle or spindle swaps.My 24v stops night and day better than the 12v. Only difference between them now is the front dual piston calipers and 13" rotors.

The 12v will RISE again.
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 04:25 PM
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I want to try and find a way to use dual piston calipers on the front without getting crazy with knuckle or spindle swaps.My 24v stops night and day better than the 12v. Only difference between them now is the front dual piston calipers and 13" rotors.

swapping in 96-97 Knuckles gets you 13" brakes, dual piston calipers, and manual hubs.

My truck stops fine now and the Cad works perfect so Ill do that when I need wheel bearings again (hopefully never)

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 08:06 AM
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It does, typically with a large initial expense to go along with it. I literally just went through the front end on the 12v. Rather not ruin all my work there.

The 12v will RISE again.
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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 08:37 AM
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It does, typically with a large initial expense to go along with it. I literally just went through the front end on the 12v. Rather not ruin all my work there.
Same here, I found out about the swap after I replaced, wheel bearings, ball joints, rotors, pads, and calipers

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 08:57 AM
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I knew about it. Just couldn't find an axle or parts in the time frame I needed or for a reasonable amount. But such is life lol

The 12v will RISE again.
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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 12:59 PM
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If I may ask, where did you get your stainless lines? I've seen a few options out there but I can't decide which to get. And do they come with the necessary brackets/hardware?
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 01:17 PM
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Fine lines made mine,. Took some minor modifications to bend some of the lines to get them to fit. The rear line wasn't quite long enough.

I had to get new clips to secure them to the frame.
They were very expensive, I suggest buying a roll of stain steel tubing and doing it yourself

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 02:50 PM
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If you're going to make your own hard line, I'd use Cunifer instead of SS. Just as corrosion resistant and a lot easier to work with.

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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 07:16 PM
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Ok thanks I appreciate the responses! And I will look into that other material also!
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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 07:24 PM
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https://cunifer.com

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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 08:24 PM
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That Copper-Nickel tubing is amazing. I've been using it for a while now, works fantastic.

However I still don't like my brake feel in my 97 ECLB, it has Hydroboost and the 1 Ton GM cylinder upgrade, brand new hoses, calipers, pads, shoes, rotors and drums when I got the truck last year, all in an effort to improve the brakes.
keep in mind my main vehicle comparison is an 82 Mercedes 300D, which has 4 wheel disc, vacuum boost and weighs around 2 tons.

The car will stop on a dime. will easily lock all 4 wheels, pedal is hard and linear, the harder you push, the quicker you stop.

The truck has no problem stopping, it just doesn't feel anything similar. you press the pedal and its hard, but nothing happens. you press harder and harder and then it slows down gradually. in a panic stop situation, it might lock one tire. no telling which one. could be front left and dart to the left, could be rear right and try to spin.

It feels better when towing something incredibly heavy. brakes seem more linear. I'll be bleeding everything again, and checking that everything is functioning properly as soon as I get the 2nd truck going so this one can be down for a while for repairs/upgrades.

The hydroboost immediately stops assisting if the engine is off, I thought there would be some sort of accumulator or setup like a vacuum system so you dont loose power brakes if the engine stalls.
if the engine stalls when you're braking the pedal sinks and takes both feet to do anything at all. if you start the truck while braking, the pedal drops, then rises back up.

Park brake works great. will hold the truck in gear, on a hill, everywhere I've tried, it holds great. Pretty sure the adjusters work too, I replaced a good share of those parts and used a light coat of anti-sieze on the adjuster assembly threads.

Red Truck: 97 2500 4x4 ECLB 250k-ish, mostly stock.
Purple Truck: 01 1500 4x4 ECSB 12v Conversion, has all the 1996 3/4 ton stuff besides the body at this point.
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