97 dodge ram 2500 rear brake retrofit - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Cheeze View Post
I don't know why you're having that problem but I just used Dodge 1-ton cylinders for the same year truck. They have larger diameter pistons, so there is more pressure exerted. I had rear brake glazing problems and excessive wear on the front pads, having to change them too often. I switched the rear wheel cylinders and my problems went away and braking ability is much more like I expect it to be. Completely satisfied with it. Dodge actually issued a TSB regarding this, recommending the 1-ton wheel cylinders if needed.
That's exactly my experience. I used to tow a 10,000 lb boat almost every weekend, and was going through 2-3 sets of pads a year, plus the glazing on the rear drums. Was even seriously thinking about selling the truck to get one of the newer models with rear disc (this was about 15 years ago). Did the wheel cylinder swap along with SS lines, and it was a "huge" improvement with my truck. No desire for swapping to rear disc since then. Although, you do have to keep the adjusters serviced. I would normally pull the drums every time I rotated the tires. I'll also admit that the SS lines played a part in the improvement.


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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 08:24 AM
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I'll also admit that the SS lines played a part in the improvement.
I strongly suggest these for anyone. I was shocked at the improvement in pedal feel and required force (less) to stop the truck.

The 12v will RISE again.
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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 08:08 PM
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Since I have a 1 ton truck already, I can't upgrade the rear wheel cylinder. I will finish my front upgrade with the ford parts for a manual locking hub and larger brakes with dual piston front calipers with the SS lines to see how that helps the truck. I will have someone look at the rear adjusters as well to see if they are working properly. Thats about the best I can do before I swap to rear discs.

Jlbayes, can you get me a link to that homemade bracket for that rear conversion?

Chris

1997 Ram 3500 crew cab long bed dually NV4500 GDS-300 62/65/12
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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 09:06 PM
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3500 ram has 1.062 bore and the GMs are 1.187 1/8" bigger. so your not there yet.


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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 09:29 PM
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I upgraded my dually with the gm parts. I noticed a big difference in stopping power after.

See my signature below. The 37337 is referring to that change.

1997 3500 club cab 3.54 gears towing & camper pkg. Still stock with a built transmission at 120k. 4" exhaust, 4kgsk, and exhaust brake waiting for installation. 37337 upgrade. Still need ideas for improvements for hauling 15k fifth wheel.
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Cumminpwr11 View Post
Since I have a 1 ton truck already, I can't upgrade the rear wheel cylinder. I will finish my front upgrade with the ford parts for a manual locking hub and larger brakes with dual piston front calipers with the SS lines to see how that helps the truck. I will have someone look at the rear adjusters as well to see if they are working properly. Thats about the best I can do before I swap to rear discs.

Jlbayes, can you get me a link to that homemade bracket for that rear conversion?
I cannot but if you are on fb I can point you in a direction to the guy that did his. Pm me.

The 12v will RISE again.
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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 12:19 PM
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Hi all,
I've not been a member on this forum nearly as long many but have gained insight on several things here so having just completed my rear drum brake overhaul and upgrade on my 97 2500 I thought this would be a good time to chime in and possibly help others contemplating this. I know this is a somewhat old thread but thought I'd throw in my experience on this topic none the less. BTW, I've been a fairly long term member on the dieseltruckresource forum and decided a while back to join this one too as this also looks to have members who value what others have experienced and are very willing to help when they can.

Anyway, back on topic, I just completed this rebuild, along with some other non-brake related work, this past weekend. What drove me to this was a while back my right rear parking brake cable was damaged by some fence repair wire that got wrapped around the axle during a hunting trip in CO. The wire basically wrapped so tightly around the axle that as it became more and more wrapped, it pulled on the cable so hard that the outer jacket snapped, resulting in a severe imbalance between the rear brakes when applying the parking brake, making the parking brake unusable. Before that happened I had already bought new brake shoes and had already read about upgrading to 1-ton Chevy wheel cylinders and bought these too, so this incident provided the catalyst for a complete rebuild and upgrade. During this time I took a couple of weeks off work to do the brake work and install a gooseneck hitch and air bag suspension and do other work around the house.

So, having determined this would be a complete overhaul of my rear brakes and having worked on drum brakes on our old Jeep CJ-7 in the past, I started by taking several photos of the brake components before I started removing anything. I highly recommend this to anyone doing this job, especially if this is your first time or it's been a while since you've worked on drum brakes. One thing I quickly realized was the brake adjusters at the bottom had become corroded/gummed up by years of use and were basically not working any more. The left brake adjuster was frozen to the point it wouldn't turn at all. So, during this overhaul, I cleaned everything, especially the adjusters, so they could turn as freely as new parts.

With everything cleaned up and the brake drums freshly resurfaced, the installation of new parts began. I even bought a new parking brake equalizer/tension adjuster to replace the corroded OEM part. The hardest thing to deal with were the parking brake cables. One of the new cables had a rubber washer that wasn't part of the original design and this occupied too much space for the flared-finger retention end to be pushed into the backing plate and lock into place. The outside also didn't have any real protective cover to minimize the entry of "stuff" from getting in so I improvised and made some from the covers on the old cables. With that out of the way, the last thing I did before the reassembly of parts began was to install the new 1-ton wheel cylinders. I was very pleased to discover the Chevy 37337 parts were a direct fit in all regards.

After getting everything back together and an initial parking brake adjustment I performed several complete stops while backing up to allow the brake adjusters to do the work of setting the brake shoes to a good working position. This step of braking to a COMPLETE stop while backing up was emphasized in the factory service manual, as it said just hitting the brakes without coming to a complete stop will not activate the brake adjuster lever and engage the adjuster wheel - only a complete stop will do that. All I can say about that is my truck stops straight and true after doing this brake job, so they must be braking properly and equally on both sides.

Now, about the improvement due to the 1-ton cylinders. After running the truck through our rural subdivision roads to make sure everything was normal, I drove out on a couple of 2-lane hi-ways nearby and got up to about 60 mph. This too convinced me everything was running normal and it gave me the opportunity to experience the difference and improvement in braking. I was immediately impressed with how much less pedal pressure was needed to brake the truck AND how much more positive the braking was in slowing the truck or coming to a complete stop. Having done brake jobs on all our vehicles over many years, I know it's best to not brake too aggressively in the first 100 miles or so, but even so, I noticed a definite improvement in both areas - considerably less pedal pressure required and the feeling that the rear brakes were providing considerably more to the braking process.

So, having broken the ice on this forum, I hope my experience can he helpful to others. See you all around.

White 97 Ram 2500 12-valve: ClubCab, 4x4, 5-speed, 3.54 axles, full bed. Mods: Too much to list here.
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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 11:52 AM
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Dodge Dana 60, 70 & 80
This is want you want


97 2500 5-spd,sb clutch,autometer gauges,4.5skyjacker 35in tires,traction bars, afe intank,banks brake 4in exh ,2002 dana 80,lockout ford hubs front,16deg's,11tst full forward.
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 11:56 AM
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Single piston chevy calipers, hard pass. The drums will out brake those pos all day.

The 12v will RISE again.
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 12:10 PM
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I've always liked drums over discs in the rear. There's a few advantages of disc brakes, stopping power is not one of them.

@jlbayes interested in the stainless rubber lines

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 01:05 PM
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Well from my experience those single chevy calipers put my rear drum brakes to same. Except for the parking brake. The rotating mass you lose is a benefit.
The link is for the op, he asked so I put the link up. Your opinion is unwarranted.


97 2500 5-spd,sb clutch,autometer gauges,4.5skyjacker 35in tires,traction bars, afe intank,banks brake 4in exh ,2002 dana 80,lockout ford hubs front,16deg's,11tst full forward.
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 02:31 PM
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@jlbayes interested in the stainless rubber lines
Do it. They are the best thing next to dual piston calipers or a hydra-boost setup if you do not have one.

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Well from my experience those single chevy calipers put my rear drum brakes to same. Except for the parking brake. The rotating mass you lose is a benefit.
The link is for the op, he asked so I put the link up. Your opinion is unwarranted.
Joys of free speech. I can and will comment my opinion at will. Don't like it, too bad.

The 12v will RISE again.
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