NV4500 Help!! - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2016, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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NV4500 Help!!

So i have a 95 with the nv4500 in it and last month had a problem with the old trans needless to say i needed a new one. so i bought a new transmission, well now my problem is that i have no clutch pedal i have bought a new master and slave cylinder and everything inside the tranny is new except the flywheel. i can start truck in gear but all it does is lurch forward while running it wont go into any gear i have bled the slave and master cylinder multiple times pulled this transmission apart about 100 times since i put it in a couple weeks ago any help would be much appreciated

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2016, 08:23 PM
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even though i usually don't respond to posts with run on sentences i tried to work my way thru yours did you replace the pilot bearing could be a bushing or damage it when installing the trans and did you possibly install the clutch fork end for end backward
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2016, 09:10 PM
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What clutch is in the truck? Southbends need an extra spacer under the pivot ball to disengage properly (though they'll usually still disengage enough to shift without it).. Clutch fork backward is certainly a possible cause.
I'm guessing you replaced the hydraulics because of this? (kinda eliminates both of them being faulty)
How does the pedal feel?

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2016, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rx7man View Post
Southbends need an extra spacer under the pivot ball to disengage properly....
I've never heard that. No extra spacer under the pivot ball on this SBC, or the one I used with my NV4500.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2016, 10:22 PM
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I just installed the 13125OFE 2 weeks ago, there was an extra washer about .100" thick, with very clear instructions it HAD to be under the pivot ball.. I think the first one I had may not have had that spacer.. I don't really see how it would make a difference, the clutch is hydraulic and if you move one side out the other side will just go in..

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 08:12 AM
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But it will only go in a set amount so if the pivot ball is extended out too far the release bearing will stay in contact with the PP fingers. On the other hand, if the pivot ball isn't extended far enough the rod from the slave might not travel far enough to completely disengage the clutch. I know there is a washer under my pivot ball, but I'm pretty sure it is OEM. The FSM shows a "coned washer". I couldn't find anything in the installation instructions about another washer.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 10:40 AM
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Is the clutch fork installed correctly? It didn't fall off the pivot ball while stabbing the transmission?

Remove the hydrualics and poke your finger in there, you should be able to feel a cupped surface where the slave rod contacts, it should be about 1.5" into the transmissions. Also make sure the shift fork has free movement, the valair calls for 3/4" to 1" of free movement.


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 10:56 AM
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Hello , I'm currently experiencing the same issue. I was Wondering if anyone had figured out what the cause of this was.

I purchased a new transmission and had it installed by a shop. I picked the truck up and it had a very hard time going into first gear 😬 it eventually went in to gear and I got it home. Along the way I heard two distinct pops and tings while shifting.

After contacting the shop with very little help I'm hoping someone can help me here.

Thus far I have replaced the master slave cylinder kit purchased from Napa and installed. Same issue exist.

Thanks so much in advance!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 10:34 PM
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Bleeding is interesting sometimes with the master cylinder facing down. Hard to get the air out. I imagine it's the same master cylinder on 12v as my 24v. I once drove the truck up a very steep inbankment to bleed the clutch. It worked great.

Some pivot balls might stick out a bit further than others without a spacer. If its short just a bit it might not disengage all the way. Everyone knows about the grind going into reverse. Shim yours accordingly.
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