Finally: How to rebuild your 47/48re - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 05:03 PM
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Awesome read! Thanks for this man!


2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Megacab Laramie
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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Welcome! Hope it helps!

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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 06:46 PM
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Thanks great right up. The more I read the more I want to try a rebuild on my own and save$$$$$$$$$$$$

2002,QC,LB,4WD,Edge Comp,DFI 7x.010 injectors,BD Super B turbo,Manton pushrods,Crowler springs,Arp studs,Airdog 150,K&N Filter,Revmax built tranny, 4"Exhaust,3rd generation wheels,Ride rite airbags,Full set of gauges,
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post #16 of 57 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 07:12 PM
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Revmax sells a DIYS kit and they tailor it to your needs! There customer service is second to none!

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post #17 of 57 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Seems like so does everyone, and mostly its the same stuff. I got the aftermarket parts from Patc. I would have bought everything from them but I wanted to be sure of what I had. Unless you are the original owner and know what's in there or its never been apart, you have no clue. That said, once I found out what frictions I needed I got them from Daaco. They are high energy raybestos and all of them including ones for the overdrive unit was like 85 dollars.

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post #18 of 57 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 12:09 AM
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How much did you spend overall on your rebuild? Were those the stock shafts as well?

'03 2500 QCLB 4x4 47RE One Piece Driveshaft

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post #19 of 57 (permalink) Old 04-21-2012, 10:49 PM
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After looking at the thread link that Chugginsmoke05 posted detailing BoostedOne's rebuild, I think I can handle it with the ASTG manual as well. I plan to do a TC, VB or shift kit, Flexplate, and billet input when I tear into it. Just trying to decide whether to go with DTT or Goerend parts.

Thanks again to everyone that replied. I will update when completed.
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post #20 of 57 (permalink) Old 04-22-2012, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedOne View Post
Marinade your clutches in ATF.


GET SOME TRANS ASSEMBLY LUBE:


Install the lip seal on the ID of the drum. Note, that this is a lip seal, meaning that it has a lip. The lip needs to point to the bottom of the drum, since the pressure comes from the bottom of the drum, and is intended to seat the lip.



Same thing for the piston. This is also a lip seal, and the lip needs to point towards the back of the drum. If you install it backwards, the pressure will just blow the lip inwards and the fluid will seep past the seal.



Lube the hell out of the areas that the seals will have to seat against.


Carefully install the piston into the drum. Work it on by slightly angling it, and pushing it softly. The manual says you can use spatula tools to help with this, but I think they are full of crap. DO NOT TEAR THE SEAL.. Be slow and careful so you don't fold over the lip.


Once the piston is installed, install the springs.


Then set the retainer plate.


Compress the springs, and install the snap ring.


Install your first steel plate.


Install your first marinaded clutch.


Repeat for remaining steels and clutches.


Set the input shaft into the center of the clutches to line up all the teeth and center the clutch discs. Rotate the input shaft inside of the clutch pack as it drops one at a time into the clutch discs. Once you lined up all the discs, remove the input shaft.


The clutches should be lined up as shown.


Install the selective steel.


Install the snap ring.


Measure the clearance between the high point in the waves of the snap ring and the selective steel. I forget the range, but I think it was .070-.120. If you have too much or too little clearance, you have the wrong thickness clutches or steels or may need a different selective steel.


At this point the front clutch drum is assembled.
too tight here and it will slam into reverse

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post #21 of 57 (permalink) Old 04-22-2012, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedOne View Post
Rear clutch drum.

Set the rear drum up on the input shaft. I was a little slow to realize something to support this would be handy. Later you will see I supported this kind of thing on a large wire spool. Remove the snap ring.


Remove the selective steel.


Remove the clutches and steels like was done in the front drum.
Remove the pressure plate.


Remove the wave snap ring.



The drum will probably fall down like mine.


Remove the cushion ring.


Remove this plate, I cant remember what its called.


Remove the piston.


Flip the shaft over and remove the three shaft seals on the input shaft.


CLEAN EVERYTHING
the top snap ring is the selective adjustment for clearance on this pack

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post #22 of 57 (permalink) Old 04-22-2012, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedOne View Post
Intermediate shaft and planetaries:
Since I have a 48RE, I have 6 pinion planets. If I had a 47RE I would have had 4 or 5 pinion planets. Note that the thrust washers fit in little holes in the planets, and since I have a 47RE rebuild kit, none of the thrust washers would fit. I mic'd my thrust washers and found little to no wear, so I reused mine.

Remove the snap ring from the input side of the intermediate shaft.


Remove the front planetary set.


Remove the thrust washer between the front planetary and the shell.


Flip the assembly over, onto the shell. Lift the intermediate shaft out of the shell/sun gear.


Lift the ring gear from the rear planetary.


Remove the thrust washer from the rear planetary.


Remove the rear planetary from the sun gear/shell


Remove the thrust washer from the shell. Note that there is a spacer under the thrust washer, retained by a circlip. I did not remove these components, as my sun gear was in good condition.


Disassemble front planetary. Notice the plastic spacer.


CLEAN ALL COMPONENTS.



Lubricate the thrust washer and place it on the front end of the rear planetary set.


Place the rear planetary over the sun gear as shown.


Lubricate and install the other thrust washer on the rear planetary.


Install the rear planetary ring gear.



Lubricate the bushings inside of the sungear and insert the intermediate shaft.


Lubricate and install the thrust washer between the shell and front planetary.


Lubricate and install the thrust washer on the back side of the front planetary.


Lubricate and install the plastic spacer ring over the front planetary snout.


Install the ring gear over the front planetary.


Install the front planetary over the intermediate shaft.


Install the snap ring to retain the front planetary.


Intermediate shaft assembly is complete.
this was 48RE gear train and your rear clutch had 48RE fibers in it

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post #23 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 01:06 PM
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Boosted one and Baxy
Thank you both for the EXCELLENT info

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post #24 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 01:17 PM
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Awesome thread! I feel way more confident about possibly doing mine myself with info and pics like this!!


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With a 47RE it's impossible to tell. It's easier diagnosing what's wrong with a woman.
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