So, you think you wanna G56 your 4wd 12v? - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-14-2014, 12:26 PM
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post #14 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-14-2014, 12:37 PM
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I have a solid flywheel laying around somewhere (if I can find it)for one of these close to new shape If in need of one.


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post #15 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-14-2014, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanack6795 View Post
Nice progress, ill see if i can slim jim that console in tomorrow, Somebody removed my Engine mounted transmission cooler, Dealer called it the torque converter cooler?

Since it need that part for my truck and its an 800 dollar part not including all the lines i would need, and im not willing to risk spending the money on a used one. Ill go this route.

This guy used a G56 flywheel, Nv4500 adapter, same nv4500 starter and a NV5600 clutch
Dodge Cummins NV4500 to G56 - DONE! - Page 2 - Expedition Portal

Im missing why he didn't use a G56 clutch
That wasn't clear to me either. Since the NV5600 and SMF G56 clutches apparently interchange, I'm wondering what the functional difference is between them. Perhaps the only difference is what you choose to call it?

'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.
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post #16 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-14-2014, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renopker View Post
I have a solid flywheel laying around somewhere (if I can find it)for one of these close to new shape If in need of one.
Thanks for the offer, I've already got my flywheel and clutch situation squared away. Alan might be interested though, he could save some coin when he gets rolling on this.

'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.
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post #17 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-14-2014, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Alright. Mid-day break and the old transmission's out. I was hoping to have my goodie box from Standard Transmission before the weekend so I could get rolling on reassembly, but not receiving it yet has been a blessing in disguise.

The G56 still sits disassembled on my welding table. I will take advantage of that by putting the case halves back together with a few bolts, and mocking up as much as I possibly can with the empty case. The case is extremely light. If it weren't for balance, you could just about palm it into place behind the engine.

I'm hoping to get a good amount of work done on the crossmember and transfer case shifter, as well as make sure my clutch geometry is savvy (I'm using a franken-clutch that I got cheap, hope it all fits!) before assembling everything for real.

'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.
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post #18 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-14-2014, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Today was very educational.

It started by removing the transmission.


With all sorts of room under there, I got a mockup of the late 2nd-gen transfer case shifter:



Basically, there's no way in hell it would work unless you were swapping to a 98+ console. In which case, it might save a lot of work for this swap, because the geometry of a bracket on the side of the transmission is going to suck. More on that later.

I learned I should replace my rear main seal. Any tips worth sharing?

Next, I threw my flywheel on. It was heavy:


I verified my starter engagement was correct.


Then I threw the rest of my clutch on. This was hands down the most physically grueling mechanical thing I've done in a while. This is a dual disk clutch, and while one disc was held in place-ish by the intermediate plate, I had to hold the other disc and the pressure plate with one hand, and try to align it enough that I could thread a bolt with the other. It was literally painful, but the only other option was to have those heavy things fall on my crossed legs which would have well and thoroughly sucked. Moral? Don't try to be stronger than the equipment. Get help.



Next, it was time for my pretend tranny to go in. I used a paper towel rubber-banded around the shift tower opening to keep junk out.


Putting it in was SO much easier than putting in a complete transmission. At this point I learned I needed a different clutch fork (zero free play ). I pulled it off real quick and removed the fork, then put it back on. I found that the bellhousing bolts could be slightly longer with the G56 as the mounting ears are 1/8" thicker. I'm going to pick up some 1.75" flange bolts to replace all my old ones.


Next up was the transfer case. With my floor jack supporting the front of the engine, and the trans jack under the transmission, I was left with no other option but to "belly" it into position. This actually worked pretty well, it's a light transfer case and I was able to shove it up towards my knees to help jockey it into position. I found a ratcheting box-end wrench very helpful in tightening the nuts on the transfer case studs due to the way the mounting flange is gusseted on the G56.


I then tried to get the output shaft positioned at the same 4.625" above the bottom of the frame rails that it was with the 47RH, but the shift tower boss hit the cab before I got there. I decided to cut the floor out before proceeding. I used a 3" air powered cut-off tool. Worked great, even cutting through the carpet.


Next I figured I would mount the tower and shifter to verify that the shifter wouldn't hit the trans temp gauge on my lower dash. It was also a convenient time to spend a few minutes in the driver's seat and absorb what it would be like to FINALLY have a manual again. There were no clearance issues, by the way.


After raising the transfer case to the same height that the output was at with the 47RH, it was time to get some measurements. I determined that my rear driveshaft needs to be longer by 2.563", and the front shortened by the same. I was expecting to need to shorten the rear driveshaft, but I didn't realize just how long the 47RH is until I had it out and on the floor.

I next went to figure out what my crossmember was going to need. I took the old transmission mount and took the two halves apart. The part with the rubber block bolted right to the mount provision on the G56, and the bolts from the transmission mount were even the right thread! I attached it to the new transmission and went to put the crossmember back in. I quickly found that the transfer case was in the way for reinstalling it. I supported the transmission and reverse-bellied the transfer case back out of the truck. Once I got the crossmember back in place, I realized the modifications were going to be fairly easy.


The mount block just hangs off the back of the crossmember.


All I need to do is build a little platform, the surface of which needs to be .875" tall from the very bottom of the crossmember (note, this dimension should be .375" tall, see post #67). The platform needs to extend rearward 1.125" from the rear-most edge of the crossmember. It needs to be the same width as the rubber block (didn't measure that yet, just scribed marks on the member).


The respective centers of the holes for the studs need to be 1.938" from the rear edge of the slots, and are in line with each slot (as this mount originally went in those slots). The studs are an M10 thread so 7/16" will work well for the holes.


For the exhaust mount, I'm just going to cut the exhaust mount off the other part of the old transmission mount, slip it on the peg, then weld a small piece of strap to it which will be welded to a piece of angle, which will then get a nut welded to it so I can run a bolt up from underneath through the hole visible in the crossmember. It always irritated me that that exhaust support was tied into the transmission mount. Now they'll be separate and I can chill out about it.

I will need to hammer the floor up a tiny bit for clearance. The little cylindrical thing at center right is a boss for a shift fork detent, and it's touching the cab here. It's just barely rubbing, one solid whack should give it some room and not be visible from inside. Other than this, I don't need to hit anything else anywhere for clearance.


Here are a couple pictures of where the transfer case shifter needs to go. Basically, the lever's going to have some jankey bends in it to go through the center of the slot because the actual assembly needs to be over a ways to the left. If this were a 98-02 truck, or you were modifying your truck to use that shifter and console, you probably wouldn't need to modify anything. Maybe just bend the shift rod a little to clear the transmission, but it would be very easy to get it hooked up.


Sorry about the glare. That's my shattered camera lens messing up my ch'i.


That's as far as I got tonight. I'm waiting on transmission and transfer case parts, I need to get and install a RMS, I need to get a different shift fork, and I need to make some stainless plugs for when I delete my oil-water cooler. Plus all that other fab I talked about.

'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.

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post #19 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-15-2014, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Got my goodie box from Standard Transmission today, and it looks like a local CF member is going to throw me a bone on a clutch fork.

I don't think I'm going to be getting anything done tonight, but things are slow at work so maybe I can coerce my boss into letting me rebuild my transfer case during the lull.

'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.
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post #20 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-15-2014, 05:40 PM
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Are you a member of the TDR? 4WD shifter mods are on page 3 What was a 5spd is Now Only a 4spd

If you haven't done the trans support yet, this is mine. Mission: G56 (pictures)

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #21 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-15-2014, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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I am not on TDR. Your write-up was one of the first I read, and I was going to link that and several others that I found useful for the good of the order. Someone just sent me that link to the 4x4 shifter thread a few days ago, I'm going to pretty much duplicate that design. Thanks for posting it up.

'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.
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post #22 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-15-2014, 10:00 PM
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Great thread by a great member.

Stickied.

TOTALED 3/23/16

| 1997 Ram SLT 4x4 | 3.55 | Dual Optima Red Tops | AFE Stage 1 | 5" Exhaust | MBRP 6" Tip | ARP Head Studs | TST #10 | 5 X 14 | 4K | 60LB | Air Dog 150 | ATS Aurora 3000 | South Bend 3600 | Auto Meter Pyrometer, Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauges | 20* | PEAK IC Boots |

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post #23 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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I'm honored, Common. Thanks!

I got my transfer case loaded into the car, so I'll plug away at that when I don't have anything else to do at work. I'll probably start on the transfer case shifter mount tomorrow evening.

'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.
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post #24 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014, 10:38 AM
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"I will need to hammer the floor up a tiny bit for clearance. The little cylindrical thing at center right is a boss for a shift fork detent, and it's touching the cab here."

As an FYI, I had enlarge the shifter hole in my floorboard when I first installed my G56. The engine mounts were too stiff to allow the engine to tilt back far enough to slide the input shaft into the clutch plate. Once installed, the transmission pulled down when I installed the nuts on the transmission mount. I fabricated a cover for the hole. Since then I have removed the trans without a clearance issue. Apparently the engine mounts are now tilted back far enough.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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