Inexpensive fuel plates are back on ebay. Some under $20! - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-14-2019, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Inexpensive fuel plates are back on ebay. Some under $20!

By clicking on this link you can find a #10 plate for $20. (November 2019) You can find other plate numbers under $50.


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...acat=0&_sop=15


1997 3500 club cab 3.54 gears towing & camper pkg. Still stock with a built transmission at 120k. 4" exhaust, 4kgsk, and exhaust brake waiting for installation. 37337 upgrade. Still need ideas for improvements for hauling 15k fifth wheel.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by country_hick View Post
By clicking on this link you can find a #10 plate for $20. (November 2019) You can find other plate numbers under $50.


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...acat=0&_sop=15
Kinda funny they say avoid anodized or painted plates because they put contaminate the fuel.... someone doesnít understand how a p pump works!!!!! Also is the brass fitting a boost elbow to raise max boost?
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 11:10 PM
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They also don't understand that fuel plates are steel and you don't anodize steel. Can't ever recall seeing a "painted" one either. There are some Chicom stainless ones floating around but the factory ones are not coated in any way. Thing's in an oil bath so as long as they don't corrode on the shelf, there's no need for a coating.


I dunno. I'm in the "fuel plates are so 2005" camp. To each their own.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 01:48 AM
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What would be the reason to buy a fuel plate vice modifying the factory one??? Even at those cheap prices you can buy several 4 1/2 inch flap wheels.

I guess if you go to far, like you grind the stocker to a zero profile and what to go back to a #10 or something, then I could see buying one. But these trucks are all over twenty years old now, its not like we're trying to maintain warranty, and you know you're never going back to stock.

So why spend any money at all on a fuel plate that can be had for a little time and grinding disc wear?

Is this just me being cheap or am I missing something?
.

97 Extended cab 4x4, NV4500, gauges, valair single disc clutch, 4k gov springs, +60 lb valve springs, homemade #10 plate, medium tension AFC spring, flat washers AFC diaphragm, stock turbo and injectors, lifted on 37" tires with re-stacked limited slip friction plates, and factory 4:10 gears.

Last edited by Antonm; 11-16-2019 at 01:51 AM.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 08:46 AM
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I agree with you. Took me 10 min to grind my stock fuel plate. Just used photos on the internet for reference. Turned out nice.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 12:12 PM
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I thought you're supposed to pull the fuel plate out and toss it over your shoulder for good luck.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 12:52 PM
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I thought you're supposed to pull the fuel plate out and toss it over your shoulder for good luck.
That's what I do. And throw it just far enough to bounce off the hood of a duramax and fall into the parts bin of the busted down powerjoke.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 02:35 PM
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Guess Iím living in the past, but Iím still using a plate. Sure, Iíve run without them. But I like how you can contour the power curve by custom grinding the plate.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 11:28 AM
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Your pedal can contour the power curve as well. Any more with AFC Live and the Fuel Adjuster, fuel plates are old school and not needed.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 01:20 PM
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When you throw your plate over your shoulder, make sure it lands by me. I would like to try a new grind.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
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Guess I’m living in the past, but I’m still using a plate. Sure, I’ve run without them. But I like how you can contour the power curve by custom grinding the plate.
I still run one too. I ran without it for awhile, but I found myself watching the pyro more than the road and the traffic around me, especially when merging onto the interstate, or passing. For me, having to watch the pyro that much was like trying to text and drive, just to distracting to be safe, so I ground the plate and put it back in.

The only way I'd run without a plate again is if I had AFC live or the Adjuster. But for me and my mild truck, I don't see the need to spend the cash on either of those since the plate and AFC work just fine (with a few cheap mods and tuning of course).
.
.

97 Extended cab 4x4, NV4500, gauges, valair single disc clutch, 4k gov springs, +60 lb valve springs, homemade #10 plate, medium tension AFC spring, flat washers AFC diaphragm, stock turbo and injectors, lifted on 37" tires with re-stacked limited slip friction plates, and factory 4:10 gears.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dauntless89 View Post
They also don't understand that fuel plates are steel and you don't anodize steel. Can't ever recall seeing a "painted" one either. There are some Chicom stainless ones floating around but the factory ones are not coated in any way. Thing's in an oil bath so as long as they don't corrode on the shelf, there's no need for a coating.


I dunno. I'm in the "fuel plates are so 2005" camp. To each their own.
A cheap one was given to me and i couldn't get the afc back on with it installed.
I went to a home ground then a TST. TST pretty much started modifying the fuel plates, so feel better supporting them then everyone else that copied them.

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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