Best Oil To use and Additives - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Best Oil To use and Additives

Whats the best oil to use in 12v cummins??

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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 02:45 PM
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Oh lord... *grabs popcorn*
Loud Pedal likes this.

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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 04:41 PM
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To give you an answer before any more goofy replies ... Most people I know use Rotella 15W40 ...

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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 05:18 PM
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I use Rotella T6 synthetic

1995 3500; pacbrake exhaust flange, 4" exhaust; turbo booster elbow; pan-off trans kit with towing valve body and deep alum pan; alum (add fluid) rear end cover. All factory extras except leather.
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dakota12vcummins View Post
Whats the best oil to use in 12v cummins??
Any quality name brand diesel 15-40 oil with a good quality filter will be everything that motor ever needs. You can use additives like Lucas but it is really not needed.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 05:53 PM
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I use zink additive for flat tappets and T6 oil.
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 06:06 PM
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I use zink additive for flat tappets and T6 oil.
Diesel oil still has a lot of zinc and some companies are switching to titanium and apparently it is even better just more expensive. But still a little extra zinc sauce doesn’t hurt a thing.
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 06:14 PM
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Whichever is on sale that meets API specs for diesel engine oil. Your engine will last just as long using Wally World Super Tech as it will on any other. Don't let the hype of promotional material or the brand loyalty of a few to cloud your common sense. Motor oil these days, IMO, is a commodity, just like diesel fuel and sugar.

Some independent testing, choose for yourself. Remember this article is 7 years old, so additive packages could be different.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.genosga...ubeOil2012.pdf

Your focus should be on the filtration, both oil and fuel. There are some really poor filters being sold that have name brands stamped on them. The Mopar filter sold in WM is a medium quality filter. Although this is an old article, the facts remain the same.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.genosga...Filtration.pdf

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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 02:57 AM
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Power Driven Diesel full synthetic
And
Fleetguard LF9028 filter with built in bypass filtration

Done.

95 3500 auto, bhaf, 4k, kdp, gauges, air bags, fuel htr delete, 33"s, dually spacers, 4.10 lim slip, 2" level, silicone hoses, tps delete, tcc switch
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 12:34 PM
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Eh. Seen enough issues with synthetic motor oils that I'm not keen on it. Tends to develop a varnish layer. I run plain-jane Mobil 1 (best additive package in the SN class) in everything gasoline. Leaves minor varnish deposits in area where oil flow is stagnant/non-existant. Last place I worked ran Duratec ES in a fleet of Cummins L-series CNG engines, this stuff developed a nasty varnish layer on any surface that wasn't an active contact area, including the pushrods and pushrod holes. Doing valve adjustments on them, you could peel strips of it out of the valve cover like beef jerky. Could have been something with that specific oil formulation, the composition of the crankcase gasses in those engines, or the interaction between the two, but I have no inclination to try it in a diesel engine I care about. FWIW, the few diesel engines we had there ran Vecton (synthetic blend) and never had issues with varnish. They also got about 1/10th of the hours on them that the gaseous engines did.

Anymore, the differences between conventional and synthetic base stocks don't really have an impact on the performance of the oil. However, the conventional vs synthetic debate will never reach a resolution no matter what data or anecdotal evidence is provided.

Regardless of one's stance on conventional vs synthetic, I would advise staying away from over-the-counter CK-4 oils as they don't have the anti-wear protection of the earlier CJ-4 and CI-4 oils no matter what claims the marketeers are spouting. I plan to run a ZDDP-boosted 15w-40 conventional in my new engine with dual LF9028s remotely mounted. Can't say the oil brand because I work for them, but if you make use of certain information under my avatar, I'm sure you can figure it out. I also ran this oil before I worked for them and would continue using it if the company and I were to part ways.

The ZDDP-boosted oils are generally described as racing oils because that's the broadest market for them, but they are also a perfect match for our old trucks without exhaust aftertreatment devices.

'95 2500 ECLB 4x4, 334k and paused due to epic transformation in progress.
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 01:16 PM
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Don't let Will see this.
Power Driven Diesel Synthetic all the way for me!
But, it's to each his own.

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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dauntless89 View Post
Eh. Seen enough issues with synthetic motor oils that I'm not keen on it. Tends to develop a varnish layer. I run plain-jane Mobil 1 (best additive package in the SN class) in everything gasoline. Leaves minor varnish deposits in area where oil flow is stagnant/non-existant. Last place I worked ran Duratec ES in a fleet of Cummins L-series CNG engines, this stuff developed a nasty varnish layer on any surface that wasn't an active contact area, including the pushrods and pushrod holes. Doing valve adjustments on them, you could peel strips of it out of the valve cover like beef jerky. Could have been something with that specific oil formulation, the composition of the crankcase gasses in those engines, or the interaction between the two, but I have no inclination to try it in a diesel engine I care about. FWIW, the few diesel engines we had there ran Vecton (synthetic blend) and never had issues with varnish. They also got about 1/10th of the hours on them that the gaseous engines did.

Anymore, the differences between conventional and synthetic base stocks don't really have an impact on the performance of the oil. However, the conventional vs synthetic debate will never reach a resolution no matter what data or anecdotal evidence is provided.

Regardless of one's stance on conventional vs synthetic, I would advise staying away from over-the-counter CK-4 oils as they don't have the anti-wear protection of the earlier CJ-4 and CI-4 oils no matter what claims the marketeers are spouting. I plan to run a ZDDP-boosted 15w-40 conventional in my new engine with dual LF9028s remotely mounted. Can't say the oil brand because I work for them, but if you make use of certain information under my avatar, I'm sure you can figure it out. I also ran this oil before I worked for them and would continue using it if the company and I were to part ways.

The ZDDP-boosted oils are generally described as racing oils because that's the broadest market for them, but they are also a perfect match for our old trucks without exhaust aftertreatment devices.
Is there an oil additive that would help this problem with over the counter stuff??

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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