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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-15-2020, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Wiring options help/advise

So my 1996 3500 2wd needs grounds/wiring work. It has gotten to the point that the positive terminal is smoking on startup, and I’m losing charge every night.

I’ve been putting this off for WAY too long. I am wondering what my options are. I was kinda hoping for some easy options, like a new wiring harnesses. I’m having a very difficult time finding one for a manual 2wd extended cab, though. Do I need to just suck it up and learn how to go at this with a volt meter, soldering iron, and shrink wrap? Am I missing someone out there who sells these ready to plug and play?

I have to admit, my knowledge of electronics is so lacking it’s almost embarrassing. It almost rivals my stubbornness that is making me do all the work on this truck...


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-15-2020, 03:12 PM
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Check for corrosion (green copper wires isn't good) on your battery cable ends...loose/rusty connections...these are easy to find and correct (start at the battery end)...my truck was heading down this road. i bit the bullet and made new cables. no more issues.

for all you know you may have something simple like loose terminal or cable crimp.

Good luck.

BJ

95 ECLB 4x4, DSS, HD X-over steering, auto., Hell bent 2.5" lvl, Thuren track bar, tabbed KDP, 4" MBRP, Autometer EGT/Boost/Fuel Pressure, Otherwise all stock.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-15-2020, 05:34 PM
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I don't know if anyone makes a plug and play harness for a 2nd gen 12 valve, but I've done a few hot-rod projects using Painless-performance universal wiring harnesses that came out good. There are few other companies that make complete harness as well (autowire and kwikwire come to mind , but I've never used any of there stuff)

Doing and entire vehicle wiring harness is a lot of time/ work, but it isn't all that hard (just really, really, really time consuming).
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2020, 09:39 AM
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Start with your battery wires and terms .
Inspect engine and frame and body grounds .
Inspect the wire that feeds your fuse box .

Make your own out of millitary battery terminals
or

buy a set of oem looking replacements . LIL expensive , but at least you know they are right and will last .

THEN once you have good power , you can address other elect issues .

SOLD My 2001 and 2005 .
SOLD 2004.5 Sons mod truck
2006 Sons Truck and 1994 12 valve soot machine
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2020, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Just got new stuff in from Larry B’s. New terminals, positive cables and negatives. Fuse box wire as well. Have to go to work now, but I’m going to try and get everything cleaned up and installed tomorrow.

Then I can start messing with all the other little stuff. I’ll take a bunch of pictures tomorrow. Thank you all again!!!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-24-2020, 09:37 AM
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Great news , although they are Pricey at least you will have OEM new truck power source quality which is a great start .

SOLD My 2001 and 2005 .
SOLD 2004.5 Sons mod truck
2006 Sons Truck and 1994 12 valve soot machine
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-24-2020, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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I had to make a video to accurately display my frustrations. I’m in a bit of a pickle. I have no idea what half of this stuff is in here, and not sure how to find out. If you could watch the video, and please give me some pointers, it would be much appreciated. Thank you all!!!!

(Sorry about the F-bomb)

https://youtu.be/eLrdkXubT_U

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-24-2020, 03:57 PM
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Glanced at video.,..you are going to want this
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...-download.html

98-4x4 5spd
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 07:31 AM
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Somebody had a lot of crap added to it. Take all that unconnected crap off. or figure out where it reaches too and came off of..

But in observing your pics, you battery cables are all bad. There is green corrosion inside the cables. ALL DONE! Take them all off, all four of them Take them to commercial battery shop or store that makes them and have good 2/0 gauge made and use lugs and military terminals. Maybe even the extras for winches or snow plows.

Yours is way past doing it half way. Go to a commercial battery shop, half the price of premade. Clean battery posts to bare metal shine. While you are at it have them load tested, it is free..

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.

Last edited by bigfish95971; 02-07-2020 at 01:45 AM.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfish95971 View Post
Yours is way past doing it half way. Go to a commercial battery shop, half the price of premade. Clean battery posts to bare metal shine. While you are at it have them load tested, it is free..






DIY. All mine are done up in 2/0 which is overkill, but I had the cable leftover from another project. That crimper works really well w/a C-clamp or vise instead of hammering.

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I talk a lot of crap and sometimes it might sound like I know what I'm talking about. I do not.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-07-2020, 01:46 AM
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2/0 and 00 are the same "double ought"

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-07-2020, 12:22 PM
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Agree should replace all battery cables and grounds. After removing the unused extra added wires, how does the wiring look? Corroded? Do you have any other electrical issues? Maybe you don't need to replace any other electrical harnesses or wires. I would inspect and clean all grounds, though.

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