Grid Heater Not On At Initial Start - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Grid Heater Not On At Initial Start

As stated. Now that the cold weather has set and it is regularly below 40 in the mornings, when I turn my key to “On”, the “Wait To Start” isn’t illuminated. So I start it and the grid heaters DO cycle. Who knows what this means? I did replace the batteries a few weeks ago for not holding a charge.


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 01:25 AM
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could mean the actual bulb is out .
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 11:16 PM
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Is the battery voltage dropping? You should be able to hear the relays click on.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 11:38 PM
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The intake air sensor (IAT) on top of the intake manifold sends the signal to the PCM that activates the light and the heaters. IIRC there is a ohms test in the FSM for it.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanack6795 View Post
Is the battery voltage dropping? You should be able to hear the relays click on.

Once the truck starts, the heaters cycle as normal.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stox225 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanack6795 View Post
Is the battery voltage dropping? You should be able to hear the relays click on.

Once the truck starts, the heaters cycle as normal.


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When you key the truck on, you should hear a click and the voltage should drop. Then after the timeout you will hear another click and the voltage will increase. (That's when the wts light normal goes out)

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanack6795 View Post
When you key the truck on, you should hear a click and the voltage should drop. Then after the timeout you will hear another click and the voltage will increase. (That's when the wts light normal goes out)

I don’t ever recall hearing that initial click ever. But the second click definitely never happens. I’ve waited longer than I ever have waiting for it. Never happened. But why would they work once the truck starts?


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 07:52 PM
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The last time I didn’t hear the solenoids click was when my buddy complained his batteries were running down alarmingly quick.

Turned out to be solenoids stuck in the “on” position.

Also, sometimes, a solenoid on its way out will barely click so may be hard to hear. Try keeping the blower fan off, belt latched in, etc, so there’s no audible distraction.

Also, check if the fusible links in the power feed to the solenoids are good. May as well unwrap them & check for signs of corrosion. A bad fusible link may not play well with a battery's static voltage, but may well have any resistance overcome by the higher charging voltage when the alternator is running.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-19-2019, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome. Thanks man. I’ll check that when I get back home next week.


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-20-2019, 01:34 PM
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The 'wait to start' (and WIF, CEL, GEN, ABS... Airbag too? I can't recall the whole list offhand, but all the ones the PCM controls directly) lamps should light for a moment at key-on regardless of whether or not the grid heaters are actually turning on. It's a bulb check. If any of them don't light, either the bulb is burnt out, the wiring between the PCM and the bulb is messed up, or the PCM is broken... in order of likelihood.

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