Wylde Wiring Adventure, or How to Tow your non-Tow Harness - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
94-98 Non-Powertrain Discussion of 94-98 Topics Not related to the Powertrain...NO ADVERTISING

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Fanatic
 
WyldeRyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 104
Thanks: 4
Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Wylde Wiring Adventure, or How to Tow your non-Tow Harness

I've noticed, in my own searching on this subject, that a lot of folks encounter the issue where Dodge didn't equip many of these trucks with proper tow wiring from the connector behind the front tire back. It's my attempt here to provide some instruction on how to add the missing wiring, to a point. I did not want to run my trailer wiring to the OEM plug at the rear of the chassis, as I wanted a distribution box for both 7-pin trailer plugs (in box and bumper.) This would also give me a point for tying into for headache lights and extra bumper lights later down the road. The installation portion is based on my experience, but the details on the wiring harness differences and plugs should help in your own work (I hope.)

Let's start with the basics of the wiring we are dealing with, the differences between non-tow and tow, and what we want to achieve. I am going to assume that you are in the same boat as me and the wiring goes to connector C129 & C129, but not out. So, let’s start at the ”front” of everything, the connectors for the chassis harness , C128 &C129, are missing wires from the "chassis" side of the plug, as the "truck side" is usually complete.



The previous photo I tied into the blue wire as a temporary solution until I got around to this "repair."

In the following image the red arrows show the wires that are missing from our non tow harness, relayed marker lights, trailer brake, and 12V (I tried to color code them accordingly to aid in ID,) in the case of the ground wire (position 3 in C128) differs in that our non-tow wiring is only 16ga, but is 12ga in the trailer wiring.



Next, let’s get a better look at the rear of the chassis harness connectors and splices. The following image shows the rear frame connectors, there is only one missing from our non-tow harness, C331 or C332. I cannot go into much more detail on this as I didn't pick up a donor harness with this connector, and as previously stated my plan was not to run this in my application.



The next hurdle, and why you cannot just re-pin C128/129 then add C331/332 and run the wires along your existing harness and call it a done deal is how the splices are done to get the remaining three wires into C331/332. In order to give you a better idea of the splices, I cut a 3 wire ground splice open to show the way Dodge "welded" the wire together. In this way we can never truly get an exact factory match tow wiring harness (if you want this, you are more ADD then I am,) I would also suggest you cannot add to these "welds" as well.



The splices that are different between the two harnesses are S312 (ground wire splice) has 5 wire for non-tow but 6 in the tow. Next is S313, reverse light splice, has 3 wire non-tow and 4 for the tow. There are two missing splices, S315 and S316, left and right signals. If you are handy with a soldering iron or have a GOOD set of crimpers, you can reproduce these connections anywhere along the harness and run new wire to your OEM style plug or distribution box, or whatever you choose to do. The following image points out the splices (red arrows are missing, black and purple need a wire added.)



Okay, I hope we have a rough idea of what we want to achieve. So, let’s get this done. Removing the harness is probably the easiest way to accomplish what we are trying to do, I had the truck bed off for another project, and I would say that it is the “only” way to do it. I am not going to walk through the harness removal or how to unplug the connectors, it’s fairly straight forward. Besides if you can’t do it, don’t do the following. To begin, you might ask why get a donor harness, well, after going to every parts house in town, and dealer (all of them) I couldn’t find the “pins” I would need to make my own wires. So I searched high and low for a harness with the tow option that was from a long box, extended cab diesel that I could just plug and play, but they don’t end up in a wrecker or being parted out. My next options was to find any of these trucks in my configuration that I could just re-pin and run, well I even had to settle for less, I eventually found “most” of the harness from a shortbox extended cab gas truck.


Gasser connector with tow wiring.


Gasser connection with tow wires beside diesel without tow.

So, with the harnesses out, we need to disassemble them to swap wires over. Inside each plug, C128/129 there is a white “retainer/lock” that comes out to get access to the retainer tabs in the pins. Just put a small screwdriver into the top near the “tabs” and twist or pry the retainer down, then with a pair of needlenose pliers grab it firmly and pull it straight out. Following images should illustrate.


My diesel harness out and ready to repair and mod.



(extremely similar procedure for the other connector)

Now that the retainer is out, you can get a pick or small screwdriver into the “lock” on the pins and gently pry it up so you can pull the pin and wire out the backside of the connector. The rubber seal might be a little tight so using a pick and prying it a little might help in removal.


Prying "lock tab"

Gently pull out wire and pin.

The rubber “blanks” in our non tow harness can be pushed out by using a pick from the inside and pushing against it out.
Now, you have the blank receptacles, and the needed wires, it’s a simple as putting the wires into the right spot and just pushing the pin into its home until the black “locking tab” clicks secure.


Pushing out "plug" in my harness.


I chose not to add the oversize ground wire, I know grounds are probably the most important and overlooked part of wiring. Instead of doing this, I cleaned and replaced the ground from the box to the cab, and added a ground from my distribution box to the frame and box.
The next step in towing our non towing wiring is to add the splices to the wiring harness. I am a fan of soldering and adhesive heat shrink, I suppose with a pro set of crimpers and the right crimp connectors you can achieve the same thing. I will kind of breeze over this as I don’t really know what else to say, I added the splices between the fuel level plug wiring and the “T” to the right taillights. Make sure you stagger the connections as they add bulk to the wiring harness, and too many in the same area will make it harder to put on the split loom.


oem ground splice non-tow harness


random pick of splice S313


pickture of oem marker light splice


pick showing locations of non-tow splice locations *tape at the black loom is approximation of where the tow splices should be*




My version of splice, cut wire, splay ends, intertwine all 3 ends together, solder heatshrink, add a little liquid electrical tape for good measure.

Time for my spin on the wiring. As seen here is my 7 pin distribution box, this is why I didn’t care for the back half of the tow wiring from the donor truck. In hindsight I should have grabbed more wiring as I was short and had to extend the new tow wiring “leg” to the 7 pin box with some extra 12ga & 14ga wire from a trailer wiring loom, not a big deal, the marker light wiring goes from black w/ orange tracer to a trailer color coded brown.




Image of nearly complete harness.

I used normal "cheap" crimp connectors with the plastic base removed and color coded heat shrink *trailer wiring color coded*


Continued..


1990 D250- *Under reconstruction* Getrag, 3.73 LS GM AAM 1150, HVLP lift pump, 366 spring, THD Fuel Pin, 2nd gen rad & intercooler, he351ve, 60# valve springs
1997 2500 SLT- 4x4 ECLB, 47re, 241dld, LS D80 swap, Rambrake EB
WyldeRyde is offline  
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to WyldeRyde For This Useful Post:
Connor_H (05-17-2017), Cowboy303 (05-16-2017), DanG144 (05-16-2017)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Fanatic
 
WyldeRyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 104
Thanks: 4
Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Space Reserved for finishing details...

1990 D250- *Under reconstruction* Getrag, 3.73 LS GM AAM 1150, HVLP lift pump, 366 spring, THD Fuel Pin, 2nd gen rad & intercooler, he351ve, 60# valve springs
1997 2500 SLT- 4x4 ECLB, 47re, 241dld, LS D80 swap, Rambrake EB
WyldeRyde is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to WyldeRyde For This Useful Post:
Cowboy303 (05-16-2017)
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 01:43 AM
Diesel Head
 
s10010001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 3,294
Thanks: 124
Thanked 200 Times in 193 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Very nice man. I can't believe any truck with a Cummins came without a trailer hookup


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

2008 6.7 2500 4x4 Auto 3.73
2000 5.9 3500 4x4 Auto 4.10 (sold)
s10010001 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
Cummins Fanatic
 
WyldeRyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 104
Thanks: 4
Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
When I was looking for the pins or a complete drop in harness I got a lot of puzzled looks, nobody believed me that a diesel 3/4ton truck didn't come equipped with the proper wiring. It's a popular issue, I couldn't find any diesel trucks in the wrecking yards that had the proper wiring, hence the gasser harness I used. I ended up going to Chrysler with the different OEM harness part numbers and they still didn't believe there was a difference in them.

1990 D250- *Under reconstruction* Getrag, 3.73 LS GM AAM 1150, HVLP lift pump, 366 spring, THD Fuel Pin, 2nd gen rad & intercooler, he351ve, 60# valve springs
1997 2500 SLT- 4x4 ECLB, 47re, 241dld, LS D80 swap, Rambrake EB
WyldeRyde is offline  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 02:56 AM
Diesel Head
 
s10010001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 3,294
Thanks: 124
Thanked 200 Times in 193 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Yea unless you get a experienced guy who's been around the dealer folk don't know much about the old platforms. Just my experience


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

2008 6.7 2500 4x4 Auto 3.73
2000 5.9 3500 4x4 Auto 4.10 (sold)
s10010001 is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 03:06 AM
Diesel Head
 
alanack6795's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 4,376
Thanks: 102
Thanked 280 Times in 262 Posts
Garage
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
They sell a Plug and play trailer light and brake kit with the relay and everything

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
alanack6795 is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 05:58 AM
Cummins Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 364
Thanks: 9
Thanked 41 Times in 37 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanack6795 View Post
They sell a Plug and play trailer light and brake kit with the relay and everything
Link? 67890

1997 XCLB 12v Cummins 4wd. Goerend Trans: 1800 Stall Triple Disk, Billet Input, Internals, Valvebody. Pillar Boost, Fuel PSI, Pyro. DAP 5x12 SAC. 4" Diamond Eye TBE. Wix BHAF w/ outerwears.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
jacob_stang is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
Cummins Fanatic
 
WyldeRyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 104
Thanks: 4
Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanack6795 View Post
They sell a Plug and play trailer light and brake kit with the relay and everything
You mean this part kit PN 82401265 referenced in the TSB located here:
TSB 08-33-96

I tried 2 different dealers to get it, first answer was it was discontinued, finally after some persuading, one dealer said it was about an 8 month wait to order if they could find a warehouse that had one. You might have better luck south of the 49th in finding one, or even in a bigger city.

I couldn't find that overlay harness in any wrecker trucks, or ones being privately parted out. If you can find that kit, run it. It addresses running your marker lights and 12v of the under hood relays. This was not much of a job once I got the correct parts, I had the truck bed off already to build the gooseneck rails to fit a Ford BW Turnover Ball to the dodge application, repair the poorly installed Firestone ride-rites, repair years of damage from "scotch lock/t-tap" wiring additions, and check for fuel line leaks at the tank, a little bit of added wiring was no problem at that point.

1990 D250- *Under reconstruction* Getrag, 3.73 LS GM AAM 1150, HVLP lift pump, 366 spring, THD Fuel Pin, 2nd gen rad & intercooler, he351ve, 60# valve springs
1997 2500 SLT- 4x4 ECLB, 47re, 241dld, LS D80 swap, Rambrake EB
WyldeRyde is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 11:40 AM
Diesel Head
 
alanack6795's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 4,376
Thanks: 102
Thanked 280 Times in 262 Posts
Garage
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Ram Trailer Connector Wiring


82400961 is the 7 pin for a 94 or cab chassis

82401265 is the 7 pin setup for a 1995+

It says 94-97 but the rear harness on my 98 is the same as my 95 so I believe that it will fit 95-02.

I was able to find one for my 94 very easily by Googling the part number, then I was able to shop around and get the best price I got mine for about $45.

I was in the same boat, my 94 had every single option except the tow/camper package
Previous owner hacked the wiring for light and the brakes, charge, and left turn didn't work.

So I repaired my harness and used the overlay kit NOS from 1996 it's a beautiful setup all wire loomed with clips for the frame and a relay to take the load off the headlight switch. And a single blue wire to tap into you brake controller.

Every light works, charge works in really glad I went the way I did without having to run any wires. Ok I lied I had to run the wire to the brake controller, one to the battery to Power the relay, and a ground near the connector.

Daily driver/ workhorse: 1994 2500SLT 4x4 Auto. Hewitt EGT, Boost, Trans gauges, Under hood Mech FP gauge, Trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, Mag-Hytec DD Transmission Pan, Ford manual hub conversion, Diamond eye 4" turbo back, 37337 Upgrade. 260K

98 2500slt 4x4 ECLB moldy G56, south bend clutch 3rd gen trac bar , boxed control arms, billet tappet cover w/ dual breathers trident fuel lines, Tork Tek OFV, 4' stainless side dump with muffler 240k
alanack6795 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to alanack6795 For This Useful Post:
jacob_stang (05-17-2017)
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Fanatic
 
WyldeRyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 104
Thanks: 4
Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Nice, I wish I could have found that harness as easy. I only had about 2 weeks start to finish to have my truck down between getting hay and moving livestock, so it was kind of a rush to get the truck tore apart, fab the hitch, repair everything so I couldn't wait for shipping anything (my wiring was so bad, even without a trailer we couldn't drive it at night anymore.) It seems you guys in the US have better shipping and supply options than us Canucks do, I have been trying to find a Tork-Tek of that doesn't come near the cost of what I can get a Bosch one for by the time shipping is calculated, if they ship up here. You don't happen to have a picture of that overlay harness do you? I'd be interested in seeing it, I never did see anything like it in any of the yard trucks I was under, be good info to add for anyone searching here.

1990 D250- *Under reconstruction* Getrag, 3.73 LS GM AAM 1150, HVLP lift pump, 366 spring, THD Fuel Pin, 2nd gen rad & intercooler, he351ve, 60# valve springs
1997 2500 SLT- 4x4 ECLB, 47re, 241dld, LS D80 swap, Rambrake EB
WyldeRyde is offline  
post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:19 PM
Diesel Head
 
Connor_H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Brenham, TX
Posts: 1,160
Thanks: 87
Thanked 128 Times in 113 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
For actual trailer connections, are you going to direct wire it to the plugs? I ask because Hopkins (and I'm sure others) makes a pigtail allowing you to use newer style plugs. Wiring direct to the plug isn't all that difficult, but this makes it much easier in the event a plug gets damaged.

Food for thought
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...s/HM40985.html

Great work on the rest of it!

'97 2500 QCLB 4x4 - 4.10s, 180 Pump - 4ks & .025s - B&B @18°, G56 - SB DD, 5x.016s - 155°, 362SX-E (62/68/.7) - 52 PSI, Fass 125 w/ Sump, Studded, 5" TBE, Thuren 2" Coils, DOR Arms w/ Shackle Flip & Track Bar,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, Bilstein 5100s,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, Quad Cab Swap

'95 3500 C&C Flatbed - 4.10s, 215 Pump, NV4500, HX35, Studded, 4" TBE, Leveled - Bilstein 5100s, 285/75/17s - 2" Spacer
Connor_H is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome