Steering damper 2WD, IFS, replacement - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Steering damper 2WD, IFS, replacement

Someone recently posted about their steering damper which caught my attention. Mine was the original. I removed one end from it's bracket and the rod slid in and out with about as much resistance as a trombone slide. What follows does not apply to 2WD trucks with a solid front axle or 4X4s. You can get replacement dampers for them every where. Not so with mine.

The OEM part number is 52038476. Back when they were available from Dodge they were priced above $100 each. Key word "were". And, there are no after market replacements or pictures of them on line that I could find. So, here is a picture of mine. Notice the highly modified and now mangled tie rod separator fork. It had to be modified because the tapered shaft is installed in a recessed area of the center link. It is mangle because blows from a 12 ounce hammer wouldn't budge the piece out, but several spirited blows from a 2 lb hammer did.

[IMG][/IMG]

After some cutting, welding and grinding a new mounting bolt was fabricated using the tapered shaft and the OEM bolt from the other end. I used it because both the bolt and nut have shoulders, while any bolt with a flat washer under the head and a lock washer under the nut will work in the frame bracket. I bought a M12 bolt, 70mm long to go there.

[IMG][/IMG]

My choice for a replacement damper was based on retracted length and fully extended length. This is critical, not all the after market ones made to replace OEM # 52029280 I looked at were usable.

13.25 and 21 for the OEM and 13.18/21 for the KYB SS10333 More Information for KYB SS10333

End result, I now have a damper that actually dampens side to side travel, and I won't have to beat on anything the next time I replace it.

[IMG][/IMG]

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97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-08-2016, 10:46 AM
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My truck doesn't have one, maybe it fell off.


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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-08-2016, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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I don't know what is up with that. The FSM illustration doesn't show one, yet the narrative has you remove it for other maintenance. If there is a hole in the center link near the steering gear box then there was probably one on yours originally. Maybe it's a 3500 thing.

97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-08-2016, 11:50 AM
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thinking 3500 as I know there never was one on it, the hole is there.


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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 12:07 AM
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Has anyone added the damper to their two wheel drive yet if so were the results worth the cost. I had excessive slack in my steering wheel until today when I found it was just a bad pitman arm replaced it everything is Rock solid like a brand new truck again but it still slightly wants to wander even after a fresh alignment I'm wondering if this would put an end to that
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 10:03 PM
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Iíve put a few on. Never last. They blow out the seals and or get crushed by the idler arm. So, mine ďfell offĒ and Iíve not looked back.
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'96 fresh white 3500 5spd BD exh brake 4in exh, Boost Elbow 35psi+, BFAF, 16.5* timing 4k GSK, 60lb I&E springs, no plate
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:01 AM
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Well, to continue necroing this thread... Apparently this is part of the 'Z3A' suspension option, which appears to be a camper package. Definitely kind of intrigued by the idea of adding one.

1997 2500 long bed, NV4500. #10 fuel plate, 60# valve springs, 5th wheel hauler
TODO: 4" Exhaust, OBA, Rear air suspension.
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 06:52 AM
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On my 97 2500 2WD I have the hole but no stabilizer. I noticed the hole when recently removing the steering gearbox to ship out for a rebuild.

97 Dodge Ram extended cab, 2500; 2WD; 8800 GVW; Cummins 12V; 5-speed manual; 3:54 limited slip; Boost and Pyrometer gauges; KDP fix; AFC Live Tuner; 055 Delivery Valves; BHAF
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12VHamilton View Post
On my 97 2500 2WD I have the hole but no stabilizer. I noticed the hole when recently removing the steering gearbox to ship out for a rebuild.
Yea, I had noticed the hole before and wondered what the heck it was for. After seeing this thread I went out and looked and I have the mounting on the frame as well. I did a little poking around and that tapered bolt GAmes is talking about in the original post seems... unavailable. Not even listed in the parts manual as a separate piece, and none of the aftermarket dampers come with it. I did find a number of threads on other boards with other people also finding it impossible to get a pickle fork in there to remove it.

GAmes, did you ever drive your truck without the stabilizer on? Does it make a difference? (I'm especially curious about the difference while towing, or perhaps heavy rear axle weights, since it appears to be a camper-package thing) It seems like it'd be pretty easy retrofit -- if a replacement for that tapered bolt were to be found -- trying to decide if it's worth the effort.

1997 2500 long bed, NV4500. #10 fuel plate, 60# valve springs, 5th wheel hauler
TODO: 4" Exhaust, OBA, Rear air suspension.
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 06:50 PM
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Jim,
I have the same thoughts about would it be worth the effort. I pull a 5th wheel and with the roads around the country being in poor condition has got me thinking about the possible benefits of a stabilizer. I think I have a mount behind my pitman arm but must be missing a piece that would raise the stabilizer end above the pitman arm to clear it. Do you have pictures of the frame mount on your truck?
I have found Rough Country stabilizers for the 2wd pickups but they use U-bolts and metal brackets to mount up vs the tapered bolt. I have noticed the stabilizers for 4wd pickups have the tapered bolt included. I am thinking the 2500 trucks with the extra hole and frame mount could use the 3500 stabilizers if the extended and retracted dimensions would work. Then there is the question of the tapered bolt diameter being correct.

97 Dodge Ram extended cab, 2500; 2WD; 8800 GVW; Cummins 12V; 5-speed manual; 3:54 limited slip; Boost and Pyrometer gauges; KDP fix; AFC Live Tuner; 055 Delivery Valves; BHAF
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post #11 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimduchek View Post
GAmes, did you ever drive your truck without the stabilizer on? Does it make a difference? (I'm especially curious about the difference while towing, or perhaps heavy rear axle weights, since it appears to be a camper-package thing) It seems like it'd be pretty easy retrofit -- if a replacement for that tapered bolt were to be found -- trying to decide if it's worth the effort.
As I noted in the first post the old one had about as much resistance as a trombone slide. So, in a sense I was driving without one for quite awhile.

The tapered bolt was a part of the old stabilizer, I believe you could find one of the same size on an old ball joint.

I did feel a difference while driving with the new one so I think the exercise was worth it.
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97 3500, 2 WD, G56, slightly bombed, 1.3 million miles. Started the second million on 8/24/13
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post #12 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12VHamilton View Post
Do you have pictures of the frame mount on your truck?
See attached. It's part of the idler arm mount that's welded to the frame, it doesn't look like something that could be added. (Yes, everything is about to get a thorough degreasing, don't judge me man!!!

Edit... wth? for some reason it's turning the first image upside down. rightclick and 'open image in new tab' to see the original.


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Last edited by jimduchek; 06-09-2019 at 07:35 PM. Reason: image messed up
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