93 turns over but WILL NOT start! - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
89-93 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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93 turns over but WILL NOT start!

So I bought my first 12v a couple weeks ago. Started on the first crank, bought it the next day and drove it home no problem. 300,000 miles, small oil leak from where the Vacuum pump joins the power steering pump. So I removed that assembly and put a seal kit on and then she wouldn’t start. We cranked it over and over and over about 20 times and it started but pissed diesel from the throttle pin. So then I bought the o ring for the throttle pin and removed the timing gear cover and gear and injection pump, replaced the ring, put it back together. Realized the vacuum pump wasn’t properly seated and tightened it and then.. it still wouldn’t start. At this point we took it all back apart, adjusted the timing, removed, resealed, and painted the exhaust manifold and turbo, got a new battery, put it all back together and now it sounds right but just won’t kick over. We tried priming the fuel system with the low pressure hand pump on the lift pump, removed and cleaned the injectors, reprimed, changed all the filters and fluids, even tried jumping it by putting transmission fluid in the fuel filter, she just won’t start. Turns over but won’t start. Also my buddy pinched this line here on the bottom of the VE pump, does anybody know what it is or what it does and if it might be the culprit? Please help!

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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 07:05 PM
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The pinched line goes to the KSB your lucky it's not needed on a 93 engine. Did you connect to wire to the FSS and does it have power with the key on?

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick response! Good to know about that line. I know the FSS is hooked up but I can’t remember if we tested it or not, it’s parked at my buddy’s right now, I asked if he would check again. When we cracked the fuel lines on the injectors, they all spat fuel when we turned over. Is it possible that the FSS could fail halfway engaged so it would still spit fuel but not enough? We get smoke when we turn over but no big bangs.
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 08:56 PM
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I'm kinda lost on this, fuel leak from the fuel pin? You mean the small pin at the bottom that rides on the fuel pin?

Then you pulled the IP to repair the fuel leak in the AFC where the fuel pin is?

If in doubt about the FSS opening most will gut it and install the body back on and see if it will start.

Putting trans fluid in the filter I don't see how that will make it start, I tried to make some burn by trying to light it with a torch and it wouldn't burn.

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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Update, the FSS was getting power, the electrical connections are good.
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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The “fuel pin” I’m talking about is the throttle shaft. It’s the pin right below the throttle position sensor.

I may try removing the FSS tomorrow and see if that works.

My buddy put ATF 4 transmission fluid in the fuel filter of his 12v when it wouldn’t start, it worked the same as starting fluid.
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucassparks67 View Post

My buddy put ATF 4 transmission fluid in the fuel filter of his 12v when it wouldnt start, it worked the same as starting fluid.
Please dont do that..... atf 4 is synthetic and full of additives that dont burn. I pulled injectors from a 12v that had a dose of atf every tank of fuel or two and they had the worst hard deposits Ive ever seen. Your buddy just got lucky filling the filter with diesel probably would have done the same thing....
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 01:34 AM
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I'm still stuck on why ya would remove the timing cover at all to replace a leaky throttle shaft "O" ring?? thats in the AFC housing atop the IP has absolutely nothing to do with timing cover and no reason to pull IP or vacuum pump etc.. ya'll hadn't consumed any hi test beverages prior to going to work on this truck by chance? I mean your descriptions all over the map, why was exchaust manifold removed as part of trying to figure out a starting issue?
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice, I’ll let him know. We did fill the filter with diesel first but had no luck so I figured I’d give it a shot.
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 02:52 AM
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Not trying to be rude, just trying to save you some headache. Before you go tearing way into your engine and trying sketchy ways to start your truck, do plenty of research. I'm sure you want your truck up and running soon, but its better to take your time and do things the right way. That engine should last you a long time if you care for it properly.

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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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So I had trouble starting because the vacuum pump wasn’t seated. Once we got it to start, it started to leak from my VE pump. More specifically the throttle shaft, the pin that sits below the throttle position sensor. This had a bad o ring. We had to remove the timing gear cover to remove the pump gear and get the IP off to replace this ring. Where the throttle shaft seal O ring seats was inaccessible when we tried disassembling the pump while it was attached to the gear box. You can only see the top of the shaft when you get to the point where you can’t fit the hex keys in to remove the rest of the housing. I replaced the ring and put it back together and now it turns over but will not start.

We thought timing was the issue so we took it all apart again and Set it to the factory position, it was off by a lot from where we removed the pump. When we crack the lines above the injectors they spit fuel while turning over. I have since taken the injectors and disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled them. I have primed the system by loosening the bleed screw (banjo bolt?) and using the lever on the lift pump. I’ve tried turning it over while the rear axle was jacked up to make gravity push fuel forward. I’ve replaced all the filters and fluids. No dice. I’m at a loss. It ran fine 2 weeks ago.

Removing the exhaust manifold and other unrelated items were just things we did in the meantime, additional information that I thought might be helpful.

Like I said, this is my first cummins. I’m trying to explain as best I can. All advice is greatly appreciated!
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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 06:49 AM
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When you removed the IP you just put it back in and the key should have lined back up and the timing would have been right. Unless you removed the IP's gear or turned the IP's shaft when it was out or turned the engine when the IP was out.

I hope that while you had the front timing cover off you tabbed the KDP.

Injectors have what's called a pop pressure, I don't know if you could have done something there when you took the injectors apart and cleaned them. If they aren't popped correctly then the engine won't run.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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