93 turns over but WILL NOT start! - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
89-93 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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We had to remove the gear to remove the IP. I’m not sure how we got the timing off but it was wrong according to the chiltons manual, the painted marks on the gears, and the sound of the engine turning over.

I did install a Killer Dowel Pin kit.

Could you explain what pop pressure is?

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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 07:29 PM
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You don't have to remove the gear when pulling the IP and you don't have to remove the front timing cover either.

Pop pressure is the spring pressure inside the injector, it has to be a certain pressure so that the engines combustion is less then the pop pressure. If the injector pop pressure is less the combustion pressure will blow into the injector and make air bubbles in the fuel.

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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 12:55 AM
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ya use a ball end allen wrench to get the bolt thats between the AFC housing and block there are several vids on here and you tube its a pretty common proceedure in order to replace the throttle shaft O ring as well as installing 3200 gov spring, fuel screw o ring etc.. no need to pull IP at all only takes bout 45 minutes
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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 12:15 PM
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ya use a ball end allen wrench to get the bolt thats between the AFC housing and block there are several vids on here and you tube its a pretty common proceedure in order to replace the throttle shaft O ring as well as installing 3200 gov spring, fuel screw o ring etc.. no need to pull IP at all only takes bout 45 minutes
Donít forget to back out the power screw before you put the pump top back on!!!! Will damage the pump if you donít.
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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 01:16 PM
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Donít forget to back out the power screw before you put the pump top back on!!!! Will damage the pump if you donít.
true! in fact when ya pulled the IP and then replaced the throttle shaft o ring DID ya back out the fuel screw before replacing the top? that could be a contributing issue if not..
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 04:26 PM
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My guess is that if you didn't back the power screw out when installing the AFC top you bent the fulcrum lever. If it's bent or broken it won't start.

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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 04:41 PM
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My guess is that if you didn't back the power screw out when installing the AFC top you bent the fulcrum lever. If it's bent or broken it won't start.
Another one bites the dust plays softly in the background......
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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 04:45 PM
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So I had trouble starting because the vacuum pump wasnít seated.
The cummins engine has nothing to do with that vac pump. In no way shape or form will it make the engine not fire because it ďisnít seatedĒ or has gone bad. That pump is only for the brakes and heater controls in cab.
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice. I did back out the power screw when I reassembled the pump.

Update: I removed the FSS and found it was stuck with an O ring wrapped around the bottom. My guess is it came unseated and lodged the solenoid halfway down. Which would explain why it was still spitting fuel to the injectors but not enough to start. I gutted it and put the housing back on. So all that is squared away just in time for the battery to die on the first crank. I removed it and took it O’Riellys to charge it. However when I put it back in it wouldn’t turn over. It said 12v so i tried it again, saw the fan was only moving about an 8th of a turn and then returning to the original position. So I tried a couple more times and eventually got nothing but rapid clicks. I replaced the starter today and then got the same thing. Battery still reads 12v. Tried re-ending my battery cables and still the same thing. Now when I put the key in the electronics come on and then it just clicks. Once again, I’m beat. Any electrical advice?
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 07:48 AM
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I just had that problem last weekend and my neg cable on the engine was loose, those starters pull alot of amps so there has to be clean and tight connections on both battery cables. Also try jumping from the pos starter post to the small terminal on the starter to see if it will start. I forget what year your truck is but the early ones had a starter relay that has a metal case that needs to be grounded good for it to work.

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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Alright thanks, I’ll try it after work. It’s a 93.
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 08:07 PM
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Alright thanks, Iíll try it after work. Itís a 93.
On a 93 the starter relay is the middle relay on the side of the left fender.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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