Starting a Long Sitting Truck - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
89-93 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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That's no problem I usually have time to help someone, these engines are so simple and can make quite a bit of power cheap and still be dependable and get good mileage.

The gridheater solenoids can be disabled so that starting fluid can be used. I've never had to use starting fluid on any of my engines even in the coldest weather. Using the gridheater and about 1/2 throttle pedal and they fire up on the first crank.

The worst part of the Cummins engines is the Dodges they sit in, they like to make things more difficult for something so simple as the 12v. You already found the first problem, the Transmission.
No plans on starting fluid, but will keep the grin heater in mind. I already noticed Chrysler likes to make things difficult, there are fusible links everywhere lol

I do hear the engine > truck argument, I am lucky that this cab is in good condition with no leaks that I can find. But the tranny has long been an issue with it. Grandpa had just grenaded his second Getrag in his 89 when he bought this truck so he figured he would get the auto instead and quickly found out that it was even worse! 560k miles on his 89 when he sold it in 2006. Finally blew up the rear diff and it destroyed the 3rd Getrag so he sold it. It still ran and fired up like a top, just couldn't move. He always had a trailer with heavy equipment with all his tools, welder, and compressor that he took everyday. I don't think the gooseneck ball on that truck ever saw the sunlight.

Now the 93 on the otherhand, was supposed to be a backup and was basically a grocery-getter it's entire life. I plan to drive it and use it, so I hope to get a happy and long life out of the truck! I can say, I plan to rebuild the auto on the cheap, but I can smell a G360 or NV4500 in my near future, doesn't look right looking down to see only 2 pedals in that truck.


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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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[...] hot wire the FSS open
Taking a quick look (online search) it appears that the FSS has 2 connections on it. One black, one blue fusable link. Assuming the blue is the signal from the ignition and that is the one to provide +12v to in order to get the FSS to open?

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 03:02 PM
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Taking a quick look (online search) it appears that the FSS has 2 connections on it. One black, one blue fusable link. Assuming the blue is the signal from the ignition and that is the one to provide +12v to in order to get the FSS to open?
If I remember right the blue one is the key on wire, the other wire is power for the KSB which hangs on the side of the IP and isn't needed on the intercooled engines. The KSB advances the timing for cold starting, I never had a issue with cold starting and mine has been unplugged for 9 years.

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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 09:04 PM
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No plans on starting fluid, but will keep the grin heater in mind. I already noticed Chrysler likes to make things difficult, there are fusible links everywhere lol

.
oh yea.. ya will very much want to add actual headlight relays BTW... Chrycler just ran light gauge wire from the headlight switch so the factory headlights are about like having a couple d-cell flashlights duct taped to the front fenders... there is a tech thread on this site in case your not into playing with doing your own wireing but in reality its a very simple upgrade ya can build the harness and install it in an hour... ya'll use the drivers side factory headlight socket to trigger the solenoids so no need to cut up stock harness or anything.... my 71 Chevy Blazer with its glass fuses ya gotta spin from time to time has brighter headlights than these Dodges (its got a 496 transplanted into it and 1 ton axles with discs at each corner but somehow I overlooked the factory glass fuses... )
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 03:11 PM
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Do you run a full 16oz in a single tank? I know on the CP3 in my Duramax apparently, 2 stroke oil isn't as good for common rail setups so I always used Diesel Kleen.



Wow! Wouldn't think the diesel would be any good after that long, guess it lasts a good bit longer than gas does!
I run 32 oz 2 stroke oil in a full tank fuel no added smoke or anything. I would not hesitate to even double that in the first tank of fuel you run in it. As for the 15 year old fuel it stank really bad and was starting to turn a brown color but we didnít have a decent way to dispose of so much fuel so we tried it and it ran fine!!!!! Iím sure it wonít be as efficient or powerful as fresh fuel though.


Edit: running 2 stroke oil in fuel has even fixed fuel leaks for a couple people myself included.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Starter was in fact shot (contact was poor and copper stud was nearly gone) so I tossed a new one in and it turned over again. I then broke the bleeder valve and gave the mechanical lift pump a few pumps and old diesel came out. Figured since everyone said they had good luck with old diesel I might try and see if it'll run. Intake off and 1x6 just incase of a runaway (can't be too cautious). The engine didn't turn a full revolution before it fired up. About 4-5 cylinders at first then started idling perfectly after a few seconds. No hiccups or misfires to be found. I was absoutely shocked, you can't beat these old diesels.

Now my first big issue arose, there is about a finger nail wide hole in the return fuel line that is pissing fuel bad. Going to need to replace it but it looks like plastic from the tank all the way to where it hooks in near the mechanical lift pump. I was looking around online and it seems most people move on to regular rubber fuel line. I found a few posts on it but am struggling to find a good write-up. Any recommendations?
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 11:32 AM
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i think replacing with rubber would be easiest solution. if you want to keep plastic, dorman makes a kit to repair/replace plastic lines. ive never done it on a 1st gen, but have on other makes and models of cars.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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i think replacing with rubber would be easiest solution. if you want to keep plastic, dorman makes a kit to repair/replace plastic lines. ive never done it on a 1st gen, but have on other makes and models of cars.
Yeah I removed the quick connects at the engine bay and it looks like I can slip rubber on to them and just use a hose clamp to keep it from leaking temporary. Now, to drop the tank or lift the bed is my next challenge haha

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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 12:43 PM
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Yeah I removed the quick connects at the engine bay and it looks like I can slip rubber on to them and just use a hose clamp to keep it from leaking temporary. Now, to drop the tank or lift the bed is my next challenge haha

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That's what I did on mine and was still holding for 6 years when the truck died of cancer.

I found that if you removed the drivers side bed bolts and just loosened the passenger side bolts and the fill tube from the bedside you can lift the bed high enough to get to the top of the tank.

If you have 2 floor jacks it's easy to drop the tank also, hardest part would be getting in there to disconnect the fuel lines.

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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That's what I did on mine and was still holding for 6 years when the truck died of cancer.



I found that if you removed the drivers side bed bolts and just loosened the passenger side bolts and the fill tube from the bedside you can lift the bed high enough to get to the top of the tank.



If you have 2 floor jacks it's easy to drop the tank also, hardest part would be getting in there to disconnect the fuel lines.
I'm lucky enough to be able to use a lift so I think that lifting the bed may be a bit easier. Headed to an auto parts store to get some 3/8" and 5/16" J30R7 line and clamps right now.

Fittings at the engine appeared to be metal, assuming they're plastic at the tank after looking at photos so I'll have to be gentle with the clamps.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 01:05 PM
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Yes be extremely careful removing the fuel lines at the module, from what i've heard over the years the module is no longer available,

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Update: Still in the process of dropping the tank, was going to tilt the bed but with the B&W rollover hitch it's not as easy as it should be. I'm currently siphoning out fuel but was surprised at how good the fuel looks. It's super clear and doesn't have an off smell at all. For >7 yr old fuel that's amazing to me. I now know the sender is also out of wack because it was showing below empty and I've siphoned out 8 gallons already.

PS: don't mind the dirt in the bucket, that was in the bucket when I started. And sorry for the bad photo
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