518 Auto to Getrag 360 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
89-93 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-12-2015, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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518 Auto to Getrag 360

I apologize in advance, I know there are lots of threads on this swap. My reason for this thread is many leave out all the parts and modifications required as well and some contradicting info. The 518 auto is a 4 speed (3 with OD).
Here's my build

92 W250 CTD ext cab long box with 3.55 gears on 35" tires. (2 piece rear driveshaft)

Parts required.
-Getrag 360 w bellhousing, shift fork, boot and 4x4 shifter plate
-NP205 29 spline t case OR use the NP203 with a spline adapter (23-29)
-Flywheel
-Flywheel bolts (M12x1.25x36mm)
-Clutch
-Clutch pedal + Rod + C clip to secure rod to master cyclinder
-Clutch master cylinder + slave + bracket to secure the master to firewall
-Modify or purchase 4x4 spacer block on shifter pivot point and shifter rod to t case must be modified or purchased
-Some minor wiring for neutral switch

Not required
-Crossmember
-Crossmember bushings (very inexpensive and great time to change out)
-Bellhousing adapter
-Starter

I decided to rebuild my getrag while I had it on the shop bench. Everything looked great but the rear bearing on mainshaft was toast due to a common practice of shimming too tight. Getrag transmissions are known for eating input shafts alive as a result. A full bearing/seal kit and the getrag was ready to go. I used 6L of Amzoil synchromesh oil (5L is required...6L is a common fix). I used a LUK Gold Series clutch as my truck is fairly stock hp. Southbend makes excellent clutches, flywheels and hydraulics for the higher horse power rating. I used a stock flywheel and the stock brass pilot bushing which many will machine the flywheel to accommodate a roller bearing.

To elaborate on the minor wiring required with this swap... The 518 uses a 3pin plug on the transmission as a neutral safety switch and to trigger the reverse lights. The 2 outer wires (purple w black stripe and white) are used for the reverse lights. Simply crimp on 2 female blade connectors and they slide onto the Getrag reverse sensor. The Centre wire (purple with yellow stripe) is for the neutral safety. Simply ground the wire to a
chassis ground.

I found the swap to be fairly basic with the help of a proper transmission jack.
Minimal modifications required other than the driveshafts. I found huge improvement to the truck and better fuel mileage. No more lag from the 518 auto and the ability to downshift effectively on hills. I left the auto shifter on the column for the humour.


92 CTD w Getrag, 4"skyjacker springs, Jungle RCC shackles/hangers, 35x10.5 R16 swampers, BD Fuel Pin, BD Turbo Housing, 4" Turbo back w pyro

Last edited by benseibel; 03-16-2015 at 05:54 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-12-2015, 02:11 AM
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this would be awesome with some pictures and step by step, definitely would be a sticky item in my book with some more detail.

question on the fluid amount. I've always been told 4 qts(3.8L) is required but to overfill with 5 qts(4.7L). you used much more than this. just curious because I just loaded mine up with 5 qts of 5w-30 synthetic based on the research I had done. 5 qts got me to the top hole of the PTO cover.

'67 D100 on '89 D350 chassis/12v/a518 --- '88 Ramcharger on '93 W250 chassis/12v/47rh --- '93 W250 race truktor --- '03 1500 shorty 12v/a518 --- 12 3500 cclb studded, deleted, tunez, 5
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately I don't have many pictures but I could go into further detail on the process. The biggest challenge if a donor truck is not available during the swap is to be sure you have all components necessary to do the swap. As for the fluid amount, I followed the direction of a reputable local transmission shop. He recommended a sychromesh Amzoil over a synthetic 5w30 motor oil. I found it easiest to fill the transmission by removing the shifter.

92 CTD w Getrag, 4"skyjacker springs, Jungle RCC shackles/hangers, 35x10.5 R16 swampers, BD Fuel Pin, BD Turbo Housing, 4" Turbo back w pyro
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benseibel View Post
I found it easiest to fill the transmission by removing the shifter.
That's how I fill mine as well, though a measure of ninja-like skills with snapring pliers is required to re-fit the shifter

1992 W250 SCLB, 6BT, G360, NP205, Dana 70/60
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 10:14 AM
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I thought filling it at the pto cover was pretty slick and easy, no messing around with the shifter

'67 D100 on '89 D350 chassis/12v/a518 --- '88 Ramcharger on '93 W250 chassis/12v/47rh --- '93 W250 race truktor --- '03 1500 shorty 12v/a518 --- 12 3500 cclb studded, deleted, tunez, 5
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Filling at the PTO cover works great too, personal preference. I like checking the 2 guide pin screws didn't rattle out and are adjusted properly. The snap ring does bring out the best and worst.

92 CTD w Getrag, 4"skyjacker springs, Jungle RCC shackles/hangers, 35x10.5 R16 swampers, BD Fuel Pin, BD Turbo Housing, 4" Turbo back w pyro

Last edited by benseibel; 03-16-2015 at 05:46 PM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 12:29 AM
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manual calls for 3.5 quarts but it needs at least 1 over which its easier just to round up to 5qts.


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<<check it out
1993 w250 getrag, 374 spring, THD pin, THD comp inj 6x.013, SBDD clutch, timing spacer, 60mm hx35, HT3B, D80, 3.54, 35"s, 6in lift, AirDog, studs, o-ringed Dyno: 427/951
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