Brakes....ugh - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Brakes....ugh

Ok so I really didn't want to post this but here i am.

To start I have searched on line a bunch and have tried many different things but here i am still.

So i replaced rear brake lines from the splitting block on the frame rail ( proportioning valve ? )

ABS block is deleted

I also replaced all of the brake components ( shoes, hardware and drums ) and i had the drums turned while they were mounted onto the hubs.

I have the spongy pedal problem.

Problem is, I cant get these dang things to bleed.

I've tried, gravity bleeding, gravity bleeding into bottle, manually bleeding them and 2 different vacuum systems and i still cannot get a firm pedal.

To be clear the brakes were absolutely fine before the brakes were done.

I have gone through over half a gallon of brake fluid and still have a spongy pedal.

Anybody have any insight of something else i should look at?

Any input would be great.


1993 w250 club cab getrag 5 speed 3.55 gears, 2.5" front alcans,305x70r16 BFG A/T, BD fuel pin from thehungrydiesel, HX35, 4" diamond eye straight pipe, hurst shifter, factory tach, egt and boost gauges, round about 350,000 miles
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post #2 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 07:33 PM
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May be a long shot but did you adjust the shoes after you did the rear brakes?

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post #3 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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May be a long shot but did you adjust the shoes after you did the rear brakes?

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Yup sure did. I did double check just in case too. lol

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post #4 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 08:48 PM
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Did you drive it and seat/bed the brakes??

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post #5 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Did you drive it and seat/bed the brakes??

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no, its not road ready yet. Dont see how that would help a spongy pedal.

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post #6 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 09:02 PM
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no, its not road ready yet. Dont see how that would help a spongy pedal.
If the pads/shoes aren't true to the drum/rotor...

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post #7 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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If the pads/shoes aren't true to the drum/rotor...

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I have moved it around the driveway but thats about it.

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post #8 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 11:23 PM
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When you set your parking brake is sets firm and can hold the truck?

92 extended cab long bed D250, Getrag 5 Speed, 4" Straight Piped, 366 Spring, DAP 5x12s, AC, Air bags, 3.54 ratio, 220k miles.
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post #9 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1320Fastback View Post
When you set your parking brake is sets firm and can hold the truck?

I havent gotten the park brake cable hooked up yet.

1993 w250 club cab getrag 5 speed 3.55 gears, 2.5" front alcans,305x70r16 BFG A/T, BD fuel pin from thehungrydiesel, HX35, 4" diamond eye straight pipe, hurst shifter, factory tach, egt and boost gauges, round about 350,000 miles
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post #10 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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/Ok, so I worked on the brakes again earlier and found a few other things.

1) With the truck running, if I pump the pedal I can get a firm pedal but then quickly fades.

2) The rear drums were adjusted wicked tight and the truck wouldn't roll on a small hill.

3) would it make a difference if the front or rear of the truck is higher than the other while bleeding or should it be on level ground?

It seems to me that there is air in the system somewhere but I cant get any more air out of the bleeders. Could it be the proportional valve deal? Does something need ot be reset with it after not having any fluid run through it? Something i forgot to mention is that between the rear brake line being cut to re-plumbing it it was moved around the driveway quite a few times with only the front brakes and those didn't work worth a dang when doing so. With the engine off the pedal is a lot harder than while running but its still not as hard as before I did the rear brakes. Do i need to "bench bleed" the rear brake side of the master?

I'm hesitant to throw parts at it because it was perfectly functional before the rear brake line was cut and everything in the rear is new including the rubber line. On the other hand could it be a faulty wheel cylinder?

Thanks

1993 w250 club cab getrag 5 speed 3.55 gears, 2.5" front alcans,305x70r16 BFG A/T, BD fuel pin from thehungrydiesel, HX35, 4" diamond eye straight pipe, hurst shifter, factory tach, egt and boost gauges, round about 350,000 miles
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post #11 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-16-2019, 07:17 AM
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Describe that scenario again, pumping up the brakes? If you're pumping them up and then holding the pedal, and it's fading; that's a classic sign of a failed master or some other leak (visible) in the system.

Wheel cylinders either work, seize one or both pins, or leak...or give a spongy pedal if not bled like any other component. Mine were both seizing one pin and one was leaking. They gave me poor braking because the shoes weren't being moved by the wheel cylinders, but had little to do with pedal being spongy. The leaking one was obvious, the other looked fine but was in bad shape.

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post #12 of 49 (permalink) Old 10-16-2019, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdeeter19555 View Post
Describe that scenario again, pumping up the brakes? If you're pumping them up and then holding the pedal, and it's fading; that's a classic sign of a failed master or some other leak (visible) in the system.

Wheel cylinders either work, seize one or both pins, or leak...or give a spongy pedal if not bled like any other component. Mine were both seizing one pin and one was leaking. They gave me poor braking because the shoes weren't being moved by the wheel cylinders, but had little to do with pedal being spongy. The leaking one was obvious, the other looked fine but was in bad shape.

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Failed master cylinder seems like it, fluid leaks past the piston and the pedal slowly drops down when pressed.
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