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89-93 Non-Powertrain Discussion of 1st Gen. Topics Not related to the Powertrain...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well, deal is done...AAA left me down and had it towed to their towing company's garage for delivery at the house tomorrow...the rain tonight caused the towing company to be "busy", sounded like he didn't want to make the hour drive to me when he called. Oh, well...it will be here tomorrow.

363k on the chassis and 180k on engine...don't get me wrong, it needs work but it is a solid for me to start with...

I'm now seeing it needs some electrical work (wait to start light doesn't come on), wiring is a mess, seems to have a power draw somewhere...nothing I can't sort out.

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post #14 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 09:43 PM
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Well, deal is done...AAA left me down and had it towed to their towing company's garage for delivery at the house tomorrow...the rain tonight caused the towing company to be "busy", sounded like he didn't want to make the hour drive to me when he called. Oh, well...it will be here tomorrow.

363k on the chassis and 180k on engine...don't get me wrong, it needs work but it is a solid for me to start with...

I'm now seeing it needs some electrical work (wait to start light doesn't come on), wiring is a mess, seems to have a power draw somewhere...nothing I can't sort out.

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Was it cold enough for the WTS ( gridheater ) if not then it won't come on.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #15 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 10:36 PM
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Was it cold enough for the WTS ( gridheater ) if not then it won't come on.
Not true, they come on after you turn the key on as a bulb check. On my 92 and 93 trucks the grid always cycled once for a split second when you turn the key on even in 100 degree weather. When itís cold (under 60 for those trucks) thatís when the grids activate for way longer on startup and continue after itís started on and off till the intake temp gets over 60.
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post #16 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 12:02 AM
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..... and have it roll bedded home (it's about 75 miles, not willing to trust its maiden voyage that far). Its a solid start...
reminds me when i bought my 1st, 1st gen... flew out to l.a. and drove it back to texas with only seeing pics and confirming it had 150k miles on it..

loved that truck. i know you'll enjoy yours

jason

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'19 2500

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post #17 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 07:11 AM
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Not true, they come on after you turn the key on as a bulb check. On my 92 and 93 trucks the grid always cycled once for a split second when you turn the key on even in 100 degree weather. When itís cold (under 60 for those trucks) thatís when the grids activate for way longer on startup and continue after itís started on and off till the intake temp gets over 60.
My 92 the WTS didn't come on unless it needed the gridheater.

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post #18 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Well, still waiting for it to show...told me first thing this morning, now its going to be 1pm...



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post #19 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Was it cold enough for the WTS ( gridheater ) if not then it won't come on.
I thought they all flashed as a check for the lights operation?

Another thought is that all the bulbs are blown...again, 363k on the chassis, they may just have ignored small issues like that.

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post #20 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 12:19 PM
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I thought they all flashed as a check for the lights operation?


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I am positive they do, I would go video it happening on my truck but I recently took the message center out and put a gauge pod in that spot. I just use my volt gauge as a wait to start light now
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post #21 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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I almost think the heaters were on when I started it last night, I almost thought it wasn't going to roll over, but it did and fired right up. It was probably 80 degrees outside...

Either that or it has one serious power draw somewhere...the battery was brand spanky new as of Sunday.

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post #22 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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Well, it's in the driveway!

Need to finish the day out for work, then assess issues tonight. I think I need to un-wire all the stuff and then start over.

The brakes are wierd...I'm almost wondering if they failed to adjust the push rod when a new master cylinder was installed?

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post #23 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 04:34 PM
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The brakes are wierd...I'm almost wondering if they failed to adjust the push rod when a new master cylinder was installed?

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Could be that or a defective booster and/or master. Also if you bleed the brakes you have to bleed the abs valve, it is above the rear axle in the framerail. If that valve has an air pocket all sorts of weird things can happen.
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post #24 of 154 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well, here it is...again, not pretty but the body has almost zero rust. I even ended up with a freebie Gerber multitool under the battery tray.

I noticed that a wire is disconnected (see photo), I think that goes to the IP?? Yes/no?

I also noted that it is missing brackets for the injector lines, so I will need to source those.

The throttle has been changed to the inner hole, but the smoke screw seems untouched (the factory sealant is still un disturbed, it doesn't appear to have ever had a cap) and the hat is still on the power screw. I'll pull the AFC apart at some point and see if that was flipped around.

And he handed me a steering gearbox, I just realized it's new in the box...

Again, it's going to need a serious de-wiring...I'm amazed, all the lights work and it starts and runs fine. There is a splice in the wiring for the fuel heater and the wax choke deal that needs pulled apart, reran, soldered, and heat shrank...among other wiring.

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