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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Pulsating lights

I have had pulsating light on this truck for a long time now. All lights pulsate even the buzzer cuts in and out. I thought a new alternator may help, but it only made it more noticeable. The only time the lights don’t flash is when the grid heater cycles, due to the draw, I think. Have any of you had any similar problems? I’ve added a few grounds with no luck. Any help would be appreciated!

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 08:28 PM
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What year is your truck and do you have a external regulator on it?

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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I once added an external voltage regulator and it only made the truck not charge, but the lights didn’t flicker. She’s a 93
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 10:55 PM
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The alternator voltage is regulated by the PCM. Flickering headlights are usually a telltale sign of a bad rectifier in the alternator.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 07:29 AM
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You can't add a external regulator to a truck that the charging is controlled by the ECM unless you cut the 2 field wires off the alternator. Then you run new wires from the external regulator to the alternator.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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I shorted out the pcm a long time ago, every else is working mostly as it should. When I added the external regulator, I made my own field wires. I used a dodge external regulator and corresponding pig tail. It made the truck not charge, but the lights didn’t flicker. Maybe I didn’t do the field wires correctly.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Those_cummins View Post
I shorted out the pcm a long time ago, every else is working mostly as it should. When I added the external regulator, I made my own field wires. I used a dodge external regulator and corresponding pig tail. It made the truck not charge, but the lights didnít flicker. Maybe I didnít do the field wires correctly.
Did you run a key on hot wire to one of the wires at the regulator? Was the regulator grounded good?

Another option would be a 1 wire alternator from https://www.paperformance.com/136a-d...1-wire-2227se/

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, and I grounded it both to the firewall and alternator itself
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Those_cummins View Post
Yes, and I grounded it both to the firewall and alternator itself
Should have worked then did the same on my Blazer only I used this regulator, https://store.alternatorparts.com/pa...iABEgLUhPD_BwE . The first one I had on it made my lights blink so I replaced it with the adjustable one.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, sorry for not responding. So I went out and bought another voltage regulator. Same lick. This time; however,I decide instead of hooking the regulator to both of the exciter poles and a 12v accessory, but straight to the battery. This worked. But the question is are there any drawbacks or reasons I shouldn’t hook it directly to the battery?
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 08:15 AM
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If you don't use a key on wire and go straight to the battery you'll drain your battery down when it isn't running. Most will use a relay and pull battery volts to the regulator so that it still turns on and off with the ign key.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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That’s what I did in the beginning, I use 12v accessory from the relay closest to the firewall. Pretty sure its a blue wire. But going straight to the battery is fine, especially if I add a toggle switch under the dash to cut power when not in use?
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