Alternator not charging need help! - Page 3 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-28-2018, 08:58 PM
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All these problems everyone has with these Dodges and there PCM's makes me so glad my 12v's are in something else that's more dependable.

Dodge has the alternators charging around 14 to 14.5 volts.

All your problems sounds more like a CPS problem either the air gap is not set right or the CPS is bad. But your PCM could also be bad, another one should tell the story.


84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-28-2018, 09:40 PM
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I definitely bought the engine, the truck came with it! The CPS is new, and I have gapped and re-gapped it (.050"), and checked that it drops the 5V out when it gets close to the damper (moving it closer and further away).

What I have not done is hand turned the crank and watched to make sure the CPS does its thing in situ, so to speak. I should give that a try I suppose. Gotta figure out which way to turn it first, though.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-04-2018, 04:22 PM
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Okay, so update on this. I kept striking out on the PCM, and I'm convinced that's the problem, so I'm doing all the bypassing.

I wired in a 91 style voltage regulator. I did make a mistake here, and ran the IGN+ to the V/R and got the pulse because of the voltage drop in the IGN circuit. I put a relay in, using IGN+ as control voltage and BATT+ as line voltage. I basically just recreated the ASD relay, but without the computer. I could have accomplished the same thing by simply running the Blu/Yel to Gnd and cutting and capping the Grn/Org running to the computer. But this looks cleaner and I'm happy with it...

For the overdrive, I found a cool latching push button with a yellow LED ring for 8 bucks on Amazon because I'm a big dork and I liked it. Ripped out the O/D Off and Cargo Light switches, made a plate out of aluminum, and put the new O/D On switch and a simple on/off toggle switch there.

I also ran the grounds for the grid heater relays to a momentary toggle switch next to the Cargo Lamp switch. I ran the ground for the Wait to Start light along with the relay control grounds, so WTS illuminates when I engage the grid heaters.

I added an 8V power supply, and ran that to the VSS. I ran the Blk/LtBlu from Pin 4 of the PCM connector straight to Gnd. I took the IGN+ from the PCM and ran it to the 8V power supply. Speedo works fine now, and as far as I can tell all the gauges and lights work as advertised.

I'm pretty sure I've bypassed everything important, and it all seems to be working. I haven't had it on the highway yet, I'm still sussing out the aftermath of a catastrophic lower ball joint failure.

Thanks for the help, I do like vehicles with a strong community behind them.
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-04-2018, 05:51 PM
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Problems with the PCM and the prices that they charge to fix them if they can is the whole reason I say to bypass it. Saves time and money and makes it that much more dependable, thanks for updating us.

84 K5 Blazer 97 12v, 47re with E-TransControl, Dodge Dana 60 with free spin hubs, Dana 70, B&M Mega shifter

96 F350 SC dually zf5, 4x4, 92 Cummins, THD 5x12's, THD fuel pin, THD HVLP with adjustable fuel pressure mod, WM, h1c 60/60/12cm WG wired
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 08:13 AM
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I think you made one of the most helpful posts as to by basing the pcm!

1993 W250 ext cab a518 (Revmax t/c) 4.10, 366 spring; timing bump; Red Head steering gear w/ Dodge Connection brace, bhaf, DAP 5x12 sac injectors
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