Butterfly Valve Gear Removal How-To - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Butterfly Valve Gear Removal How-To

Gear Removal is ONLY to be done with Conventional EGR *AND* DPF deletes *WITH* code clearing on start-up. Do not pull the gear w/Smarty or XRT.


In the past it was normal to hear of removing the butterfly plate to eliminate the surging issues from Code clearing w/ EGR & DPF deletes.

It was also normal to hear of the nightmares involved with the removal of the screws and then even more nightmares to replace the plate if needed later.
I recall some time ago a member posting about simply removing the gear inside the butterfly valve controller. Brilliant! I wish I could recall who that was to give him the credit.
When it came time for me to disable my butterfly I chose to look into the gear as it appeared to be a simple, clean and easily reversable mod. I do love the KISS Principle. I've posted about this several times and now here is a simple How-To to follow.
I hope this becomes a helpful tool for future 6.7L owners.

Technical stuff starting the next post.


Tom
2008 QC-LB,2500,4X4,White/Kaki,Big-Horn,3.73 Auto, MyGig Nav unit, K&N no baffle,DPF quit working, GHD, Shibby stage 1 intake & boost tube, Smarty, PMT for gauges, Mag-Hytec Pan & Diff covers.
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Last edited by jpark; 10-26-2009 at 07:39 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Butterfly Valve Gear removal:

This is what you are looking for. The Butterfly Valve is just below the EGR.


A better view of the controller cover. 4 T-20 torx screws hold the cover in place.
Be sure to unplug the connector from the underside first.


The cover off showing the 4 screws & T-20 and T-10 drivers. Those are the only tools required for this mod.
As you can see the electronics is part of the cover including the jack.


The three main components. On the right, the motor unit, center the White idler gear (to be removed) and on the left the spring loaded butterfly valve shaft.


Here is the motor unit removed. NOTE the wave washer that is behind the motor. It goes back in the hole before installation of the motor again. The motor screws are T-10.


Here you can see the screw positions. The back motor one isn't visible installed, unless you use a mirror.


Here is the unit just before cover replacement.


A picture of the Cable connector showing the red safety clip similar to the ones on the Pyro Probes.


I think that about covers it. This really is a very simple task.
Only word of caution is to watch the screws to not lose any. I even suggest a magnet tipped driver for this.

Good luck with your modding.

Tom
2008 QC-LB,2500,4X4,White/Kaki,Big-Horn,3.73 Auto, MyGig Nav unit, K&N no baffle,DPF quit working, GHD, Shibby stage 1 intake & boost tube, Smarty, PMT for gauges, Mag-Hytec Pan & Diff covers.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 06:15 PM
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Thanks Tom, good pics.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 07:27 PM
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If you release the harness restraint zip tie that is located just to the left of the throttle valve you can simply unthread it (lefty loosey) rather than break it off

Back in the common snail game. 03 SO 2wd 530,000 miles and counting.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibbyutman View Post
If you release the harness restraint zip tie that is located just to the left of the throttle valve you can simply unthread it (lefty loosey) rather than break it off
I didn't break that off. That was thanks to the dealer replacing my EGR valve. Hadn't even noticed that until you pointed it out.

Good tip though.

Tom
2008 QC-LB,2500,4X4,White/Kaki,Big-Horn,3.73 Auto, MyGig Nav unit, K&N no baffle,DPF quit working, GHD, Shibby stage 1 intake & boost tube, Smarty, PMT for gauges, Mag-Hytec Pan & Diff covers.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 08:46 PM
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Dealer fail, ARGGG!! Good info though PS, this is easier and more reversible than drilling out the bolts in the blade itself.

Back in the common snail game. 03 SO 2wd 530,000 miles and counting.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -lenny- View Post
Thanks Tom, good pics.
good pictures, Tom ... How does the electronics connect to the stepper motor ? Are there contacts points ?

2007.5 Quad-Cab, SB, 2500, 6.7L, 4X4, White/gray, Big-Horn, 6-SpMnl (G56), S&B CAI (no baffle), Ranch Canopy, W2W Nerf, Prodigy, ÖÖ.Stock DownPipe, CAT & DPF deleted, EGT fooler sims in place, EGR blocked, Smarty67 18ME (AS flash B4 Smarty67), AutoMeter Boost & EGT gauges...
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gng2930x View Post
good pictures, Tom ... How does the electronics connect to the stepper motor ? Are there contacts points ?
Not a stepper motor. There is a ferrous ring that causes pulses in the pic-up unit. Yes pins from the PCB to the motor. Look at the pic of the motor loose. That little wing piece is plastic with metal pins for the motor.

Tom
2008 QC-LB,2500,4X4,White/Kaki,Big-Horn,3.73 Auto, MyGig Nav unit, K&N no baffle,DPF quit working, GHD, Shibby stage 1 intake & boost tube, Smarty, PMT for gauges, Mag-Hytec Pan & Diff covers.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 09:28 PM
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Good pics on the how to. Looks like connection to the motor is in the cover plate.
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