Shibby/K2 Grid Heater Delete Install Guide - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Shibby/K2 Grid Heater Delete Install Guide

Alright fellas, here is a brief write-up on the install of the upcoming Shibby Engineering/K2 Diesel Performance Grid Heater Delete for the 6.7L CTD. I've set this write-up so that the average shadetree mechanic with nothing more than basic hand tools can accomplish this. The install took me about 4 hours with NO air tools, taking my time, writing notes to myself about the install, going back and forth reinstalling different pieces in different order to see which way was the most efficient, and taking pictures the whole way. I have no doubt this install could be performed by the semi-competant wrench-turner in around 2 hours. Hope this is of use to some of you in the near future.

TOOLS REQUIRED
-8mm socket (unless you don't have your top cover on anymore)
-10mm deep well socket
-7/16" deep well socket
-1/2" deep well socket
-1" deep well socket (or open ended wrench)
-9/16" open ended wrench
-17mm open ended wrench
-19mm open ended wrench
-6mm allen wrench
-Flat head screwdriver
-Razor blade scraper
-Wire cutters
-(7) Zip-Loc bags (gallon)
-Sharpie
-1/4" and 3/8" socket wrenches
-Short and medium length socket wrench extensions
-Paper towels

PROCEDURE
Before beginning, I should mention that currently my EGR is not on my truck. So, if you have your EGR still on the truck, you will have a couple of extra steps to do before getting to step 1 of this write-up. Essentially, you will need to take your 8mm socket and remove the 4 bolts holding the top shroud off the top of the engine. Two of the bolts attach to a bracket coming from the front of the valve cover, one of them mounts near the EGR servo motor, and the fourth is located on the EGR itself. Once you have removed these bolts you will need to unplug the primary plug on the EGR and use your 7/16" socket to loosen the hose clamp between the crossover tube and the EGR. Once the clamp is loosened, you will need to separate the EGR from the crossover tube so that, when the intake horn is removed, the EGR is unobstructed and can be pulled with it. Now, if you have removed your EGR as well, we start here:



1. Remove intake airhorn. I, of course, forgot to take pictures until after the horn was already off, so I can only offer this photo with a simple walkthrough:



First, remove the dipstick from bracket atop the intake horn with a 10mm socket wrench. Next, remove the 6 10mm bolts that secure the base of the intake horn as shown by the RED arrows.

Next, use the 9/16" open ended wrench to remove the thermocouple from the backside (towards the driver's seat) of the intake horn, indictated by the YELLOW arrow. Directly below the thermocouple, there is a bracket securing a wire harness to the horn. Using the 6mm allen wrench, remove this bracket and rethread the bolt into the horn so it is not lost.

Now, remove the MAP sensor plug, indicated by the BLUE arrow.

Once you have removed the MAP sensor plug, using the 7/16" deep well socket, loosen the clamp between the intake horn and the rubber coupler from the intake elbow, indicated by a GREEN arrow. Once the clamp is sufficiently loose, use the flat head screwdriver to gently break the seal between the rubber coupler and the air horn. Gently pry the horn out of the thermocouple but DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PULL IT OUT OF THE TRUCK YET. There is another sensor on the bottom of the airhorn that you won't be able to see until you have the airhorn loose and can pivot it. Gently slide the engine side of the intake horn around the rail lines and pivot the entire horn until you can access the sensor and remove the plug. Then, remove the intake horn.

2. Remove fuel line from CP3 to rail. Using a 19mm open ended wrench, loosen the fitting from the fuel rail that goes to the CP3, as shown here:



Once the fitting is loose, do not try to pry the line from the rail. Using the 19mm open ended wrench again, remove the fitting on the opposite end of the line, located at the CP3. If you do not know where the CP3 is located, just follow the line. It is located directly in front (towards the grille of the truck) and below the fuel rail. Once both fittings are loose, the fuel line will slide right off. Label 1 Zip-Loc bag as Rail to CP3 with the sharpie and place this fuel line in the bag.

3. Remove the 6 fuel rail to injector lines. All of these lines also use the 19mm open ended wrench. Start at the front of the rail which leads to injector #1, as shown below:




Again, don't try to pry the fuel line from the rail without first loosening both fittings, on the rail side AND the injector side. The fitting will slide right off then. Label a Zip-Loc bag with each rail position # and injector # and place the corresponding line in the bag, as shown:



NOTE #1: Notice when you are removing these that the #3 line on the rail goes to the #4 injector and vice versa. Otherwise the position on the rail corresponds to the same injector (1 to 1, 2 to 2, 5 to 5, and 6 to 6).

NOTE #2: Getting to all the rail lines is easier if you remove both the main injector wiring harnesses and move them out of the way. Simply use your flat head screwdriver to loosen the connection, then gently slide the connector off the plug for both the front (injectors 1-3) and the rear (injectors 4-6).

4. Remove the fuel banjo bolt from the side of the fuel rail that comes from the fuel filter. Using your 17mm open ended wrench, loosen this banjo bolt and carefully remove it, as seen below:



There is a washer between the fuel rail and the fuel line coming from the fuel filter. Be careful not to lose this washer.

5. Remove the plug from the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. The best bet is to remove the two other plug in this particular pigtail so the entire pigtail can be moved out of the way. The first is on the EGR servo motor, as seen here:



The second in the line is directly behind the valve cover...cover on the back, as shown here:



And, the third is the actual IAT sensor plug, as shown here:



This pigtail has two management loops on it that allow it to be routed properly. One is located on the backside of the valve cover...cover on the passenger side and the other is located on the rear driver's side mounting bolt for the rail. Simply slide these loops off the stud which they are attached to and the pigtail can be moved out of the way.

6. Remove the power wire from the grid heater and from the relay near the passenger side battery. Using a 10mm socket remove the power wire, as shown here:



Trace the power wire around the front of the engine and to the relay on the passenger side. Pop the airbox cover off and push it out of the way. Use a 1/2" deep well socket to remove the other side of the power wire from the relay, located on the front (towards the drivers side) of the passenger side battery. Remove the power wire entirely. Be sure to use new ZIP ties to secure the harness that travels parallel to the power wire across the front of the engine after you have clipped the ZIP ties off to remove the power wire.

7. Remove the 4 bolts attaching the fuel rail to the grid heater. Using the 10mm deep well socket, remove the 3 standard looking bolts and 1 bolt with a stud at the top (which the pigtail was looped to in the previous step) to unsecure the rail. The 3 bolts with a standard head are here:



And the bolt with the stud on top is here:



Underneath this particular bolt, there is a bracket that holds the oil dipstick sleeve. Push this bracket out of the way.

8. Remove the fuel rail harness plug from the back of the rail. This is the tricky plug that anyone who has installed an MP-8 or Power Puck knows all too well. It is MUCH easier to get to and remove now, however, due to having already removed all the fuel lines and harnesses that are typically in the way. The plug is seen here:



After removing this plug, the rail should be free to slide out of the engine bay. Try to keep the rail level as it has fuel in it that will leak out. Not much, but some.

9. Remove the IAT sensor. Using a 1" deep well socket (or open ended wrench), remove the IAT sensor, located here:



Once removed, the IAT sensor looks like this:



Using a pair of wire cutters, carefully clip the existing washer off the sensor. Do not try to pry the washer off or spin it off by the threads, you will only end up damaging the threads on the sensor. Once you have removed the existing washer, roll the rubber o-ring onto the IAT sensor followed by the brass o-ring, both included in the Grid Heater Delete kit. The IAT sensor should now look like this:



10. Remove the OEM grid heater. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 4 remaining bolts holding the grid heater to the engine. The bolts are easily seen:



Once you have removed the four bolts, gently pry the grid heater until it is loose from the gasket underneath and slide it out of the truck. This is what you should have now:



For comparison, here is the OEM grid heater next to the Shibby/K2 GHD:



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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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11. Install new gasket and grid heater delete. I reused my old grid heater gasket, frankly, because it was still in perfect shape and did not move in the slightest when I removed the OEM grid heater. If your gasket comes dislodged in any way during the grid heater removal, however, i strongly suggest removing it, cleaning the surface with the razor blade scraper, and applying the new gasket. Once the new gasket is in place, slide the grid heater delete (GHD) into place and secure with the same 4 bolts used to remove the OEM grid heater, as seen here artfully pointed out with my gang signs:



12. Reinstall IAT sensor. I had initially installed the fuel rail before installing the IAT sensor only to realize that I couldn't get to the IAT sensor to torque it down, so I had to remove the rail again and install the IAT sensor. I made that mistake purely in the interest of making sure you guys know the correct order of reinstallation. I accept tokens of gratitude by way of paypal.



13. Reinstall fuel rail. Notice that with the Shibby/K2 GHD kit there are 4 spacers for the fuel rail. Once the fuel rail is in place, slide the spacers between the rail and the GHD and use the OEM bolts to secure it, remembering to include the oil dipstick tube bracket on the rear driver's side bolt.




14. Reinstall fuel rail harness plug, fuel line from fuel filter to rail, fuel line from CP3 to rail, and fuel lines from injectors to rail. I found the best order to accomplish this is as follows: First, reinstall the fuel line from the fuel filter to the rail, ensuring you place the washer between the rail and the line and torque the banjo bolt to the proper specs. Next, attach the #6 rail to injector line. Then, plug in the fuel rail harness (it gets in the way of tightening the injector line if plugged in before). Then attach the rest of the fuel rail to injector lines and finally the fuel rail to CP3 line. This is what you should be looking at now:



15. Reinstall IAT sensor harness and injector harnesses. Ensure all three of the plugs on the IAT sensor harness are properly secured and routed properly. The two loops that route the harness just slide back over the studs which you removed them from. Then simply plug the injector harnesses back in. Here is where you should be now:



16. Reinstall the intake horn. Ensure that before you apply the new gasket for the intake horn included with the GHD kit, you use the razor blade scraper to clean the intake horn surface of all the old gasket material. Also the gasket has a semi-sticky side and a non-sticky side. Attach the semi-stick to the air horn before installing. This will make it much easier to line everything up. Slide the horn into the intake elbow coupler, guide it into place, and start the 6 bolts that fasten the horn to the GHD. Then tighten the coupler to the air horn, plug in both unplugged sensors, reattach the wiring harness bracket to the horn with the 6mm allen head bolt, reinstall the thermocouple to the air horn, tighten the air horn down, and reinstall the dipstick to the top bracket. Ensure all your fittings are tight and the installation is complete!



17. Prime fuel system before starting. Much like when you replace your fuel filter, the fuel system needs to be primed again before it will start. Turn your key to the on position, allow the fuel system to prime, then "bump" the starter just for one turn. Turn the key off, then back to on. Allow the fuel system to prime again, then bump the starter. Once more, and then attempt to start. It may take a second but it will eventually fire up if you have everything installed correctly. With the truck idling, take a flashlight under the hood (even in the daytime) and carefully inspect all the fuel lines at the injectors, the rail, and the CP3 to ensure there isn't fuel leaking from any of them. If all is good, you are done!

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Jolene: '13 JKR NSG370 4.10: Edelbrock | Diablo | Bartact | sPOD | RK | Teraflex | AEV | Fox | Adams | SteerSmarts | Duratrac | General | Method | JCR | Warn | KC
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 11:55 PM
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Excellent write up, definitely belongs in the 6.7L tech article section.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 12:00 AM
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Great Write Up!

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 08:43 AM
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Very nicely done!

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 08:47 AM
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great job fellas....

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 10:27 AM
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Glad you got yours done first it ought to help me do mine. How long did you take on your install?

It wont lety me post in here any more but if your planning on doing a CAI do it when youre doing this install so that you can easily get to the relay to remove the wire from the relay to the intake.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 11:40 AM
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When I talked with him on the phone he said 4 hours, goin' slow, takin' pictures of everything. Now that there is a tools list and step by step layout of it, he's guesstimating about two hours depending on EGR setup and such

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 01:35 PM
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Excellent write-up Bud!

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