Valve body recommendations in 2020 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Valve body recommendations in 2020

I’ve got a 2010 68rfe truck. Tuned and deleted with a 5 position switch. Trans tuning as well. All else is stock. I’m in the market for an aftermarket valvebody, who’s unit does everyone recommend in 2020? I’ve looked into the rev max towing/hd unit but all threads I could find on it were really old and it doesn’t seem like anyone is buying them anymore. Does my application really need a d&j separator plate?

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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 04:44 PM
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What are you looking to gain on an aftermarket valve body? Is your current one not working?

'14 3500 SLT CCLB SRW 68RFE 3.42
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Mine is currently working alright. Except for the occasional hard up/down shift. I’m mainly looking to increase line pressure ( my tuning commands 225 at its highest) I am mainly hoping to prolong the life of it. I do occasionally tow heavy and I do like to play... sensibly
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 05:19 PM
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The occasional hard downshift/upshift could just be your trans learning the new tune. Whenever I flash a new tune it takes around 3000km's for it to shift the way it will shift forever. At around 800km's (500 miles) it settles down quite a bit and doesn't improve too much as long as it's had around 50 shifts through each gear or so.

What tune are you going to be running? I installed a Revmax valvebody shortly after my delete and it was the worst thing I did. Besides receiving a dud one the first time and wasting countless amounts of ATF+4 and time, it had some funny shifts and jerky park to drive and drive to reverse shifts. As soon as I did my first WOT run on the 100hp tune I snapped my input shaft. I was running locked shifts and 225psi line pressure and between the two my input shaft couldn't take it. It was completely fine before the valvebody. I properly did a drive learn and let it break in too.

If I was to do it again I wouldn't waste a penny on throwing stuff at the stock trans to make it better. I would've just run it until it was dead and upgrade the whole thing. I now have a NAPC Race HD 700hp 68rfe and couldn't be happier. I wasted my money on the VB.

Now if you are planning on going with a revmax of your trans ever does break, I believe they will reimburse you on it when you do a built one. Next Gen Diesel would probably be who I would go for if I was to do a valvebody upgrade if they would offer the same reimbursement. Otherwise you could do a BD protect kit to get yourself up to 225psi for a lot cheaper than an aftermarket VB if you are willing to mod your current VB.

If you have any questions feel free to post up.

'14 3500 SLT CCLB SRW 68RFE 3.42
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 05:41 PM
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The occasional hard downshift/upshift could just be your trans learning the new tune. Whenever I flash a new tune it takes around 3000km's for it to shift the way it will shift forever. At around 800km's (500 miles) it settles down quite a bit and doesn't improve too much as long as it's had around 50 shifts through each gear or so.

What tune are you going to be running? I installed a Revmax valvebody shortly after my delete and it was the worst thing I did. Besides receiving a dud one the first time and wasting countless amounts of ATF+4 and time, it had some funny shifts and jerky park to drive and drive to reverse shifts. As soon as I did my first WOT run on the 100hp tune I snapped my input shaft. I was running locked shifts and 225psi line pressure and between the two my input shaft couldn't take it. It was completely fine before the valvebody. I properly did a drive learn and let it break in too.

If I was to do it again I wouldn't waste a penny on throwing stuff at the stock trans to make it better. I would've just run it until it was dead and upgrade the whole thing. I now have a NAPC Race HD 700hp 68rfe and couldn't be happier. I wasted my money on the VB.

Now if you are planning on going with a revmax of your trans ever does break, I believe they will reimburse you on it when you do a built one. Next Gen Diesel would probably be who I would go for if I was to do a valvebody upgrade if they would offer the same reimbursement. Otherwise you could do a BD protect kit to get yourself up to 225psi for a lot cheaper than an aftermarket VB if you are willing to mod your current VB.

If you have any questions feel free to post up.
Valve bodies arenít designed for WOT runs on a otherwise stock 68rfe. You didnít waste your money, you merely had the wrong understanding/expectations.

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 05:48 PM
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Installed my own with zero regrets. Itís designed to apply more pressure to your clutches to keep them from slipping. This allows for Ďaggressiveí rolls into your throttle without slipping your clutches. Thatís how you prolong its life, by saving your clutches.

Itís not designed to protect your input shaft. Oh and please donít go cheap. BDís kit is junk. Hereís what they offer vs what Revmax offers



VS








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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I’m running firepunk tunes. I’ve been tuned and deleted for about 10k miles and still have those issues. I don’t do WOT pulls... maybe once but never with the hot tune.

I’ve read about valvebody cross leakage causing weird stuff and the overdrive switch bore wearing out and want to address those things as well. I’m okay with spending money on the valvebody because if the clutches burn up i don’t feel like it will completely trash the VB so it could be reused in a possible future build
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron37 View Post
The occasional hard downshift/upshift could just be your trans learning the new tune. Whenever I flash a new tune it takes around 3000km's for it to shift the way it will shift forever. At around 800km's (500 miles) it settles down quite a bit and doesn't improve too much as long as it's had around 50 shifts through each gear or so.

What tune are you going to be running? I installed a Revmax valvebody shortly after my delete and it was the worst thing I did. Besides receiving a dud one the first time and wasting countless amounts of ATF+4 and time, it had some funny shifts and jerky park to drive and drive to reverse shifts. As soon as I did my first WOT run on the 100hp tune I snapped my input shaft. I was running locked shifts and 225psi line pressure and between the two my input shaft couldn't take it. It was completely fine before the valvebody. I properly did a drive learn and let it break in too.

If I was to do it again I wouldn't waste a penny on throwing stuff at the stock trans to make it better. I would've just run it until it was dead and upgrade the whole thing. I now have a NAPC Race HD 700hp 68rfe and couldn't be happier. I wasted my money on the VB.

Now if you are planning on going with a revmax of your trans ever does break, I believe they will reimburse you on it when you do a built one. Next Gen Diesel would probably be who I would go for if I was to do a valvebody upgrade if they would offer the same reimbursement. Otherwise you could do a BD protect kit to get yourself up to 225psi for a lot cheaper than an aftermarket VB if you are willing to mod your current VB.

If you have any questions feel free to post up.
Valve bodies aren’t designed for WOT runs on a otherwise stock 68rfe. You didn’t waste your money, you merely had the wrong understanding/expectations.
Uh... no, I didn't. I bought it to help with the overdrives and hopefully have faster shifts. It didn't give me faster shifts and instead it shifted funny. The added line pressure helped snap my shaft. Even you can't argue with that. Had I not installed that valve body, I still believe I'd be on the stock trans. I hardly ever beat on it, one of the rare times I did, it broke. Again it was my fault it broke, but the VB with extra line pressure is good for the clutch packs and hard on the hard parts. No one can deny that, it's basic physics.

Revmax's customer service was not great for me, so I did not go with a revmax transmission for my built one to take advantage of the VB reimbursement. So, yes. For me, it was a HUGE WASTE of money.

I'm glad you are happy with yours.

'14 3500 SLT CCLB SRW 68RFE 3.42
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick00less View Post
Installed my own with zero regrets. It’s designed to apply more pressure to your clutches to keep them from slipping. This allows for ‘aggressive’ rolls into your throttle without slipping your clutches. That’s how you prolong its life, by saving your clutches.

It’s not designed to protect your input shaft. Oh and please don’t go cheap. BD’s kit is junk. Here’s what they offer vs what Revmax offers



VS








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Those pictures don't prove anything. BD kit is cheaper to buy but solves all the major issues with the VB. Revmax basically does the same thing with a few other minor upgrades and then marks it up a lot.
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'14 3500 SLT CCLB SRW 68RFE 3.42
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 07:47 PM
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Uh... no, I didn't. I bought it to help with the overdrives and hopefully have faster shifts. It didn't give me faster shifts and instead it shifted funny. The added line pressure helped snap my shaft. Even you can't argue with that. Had I not installed that valve body, I still believe I'd be on the stock trans. I hardly ever beat on it, one of the rare times I did, it broke. Again it was my fault it broke, but the VB with extra line pressure is good for the clutch packs and hard on the hard parts. No one can deny that, it's basic physics.

Revmax's customer service was not great for me, so I did not go with a revmax transmission for my built one to take advantage of the VB reimbursement. So, yes. For me, it was a HUGE WASTE of money.

I'm glad you are happy with yours.
Well you said you bought it to shift faster, which it is not advertised to do because that would be achieved in tuning, so yeah your expectations were incorrect. Common sense will tell you if up the line pressure, lock your shifts, and make it so the engineered point of failure doesn't fail (clutches) something else is going to fail if everything else is stock.

The valve body allowed you to actually hit 225 psi, unlike stock. It gave you exactly what you wanted. It was "perfectly fine" beforehand because a stock trans wont hit those numbers in forward gears and if you drive as gently as you said of course the clutches will last (or at least slip before you break something). I don't know why you are saying it's a waste of money when you've literally proved it performs exactly as advertised. The only takeaway of your situation is people need to be mindful that the rest of the trans and their tuning is up to par for what they want to achieve.

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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
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Uh... no, I didn't. I bought it to help with the overdrives and hopefully have faster shifts. It didn't give me faster shifts and instead it shifted funny. The added line pressure helped snap my shaft. Even you can't argue with that. Had I not installed that valve body, I still believe I'd be on the stock trans. I hardly ever beat on it, one of the rare times I did, it broke. Again it was my fault it broke, but the VB with extra line pressure is good for the clutch packs and hard on the hard parts. No one can deny that, it's basic physics.

Revmax's customer service was not great for me, so I did not go with a revmax transmission for my built one to take advantage of the VB reimbursement. So, yes. For me, it was a HUGE WASTE of money.

I'm glad you are happy with yours.
Well you said you bought it to shift faster, which it is not advertised to do because that would be achieved in tuning, so yeah your expectations were incorrect. Common sense will tell you if up the line pressure, lock your shifts, and make it so the engineered point of failure doesn't fail (clutches) something else is going to fail if everything else is stock.

The valve body allowed you to actually hit 225 psi, unlike stock. It gave you exactly what you wanted. It was "perfectly fine" beforehand because a stock trans wont hit those numbers in forward gears and if you drive as gently as you said of course the clutches will last (or at least slip before you break something). I don't know why you are saying it's a waste of money when you've literally proved it performs exactly as advertised. The only takeaway of your situation is people need to be mindful that the rest of the trans and their tuning is up to par for what they want to achieve.
Except when I talked to revmax they told me it would shift faster and crisper than stock, which it did not do. They also told me it wouldn't adversely affect shift quality or TCC lockup, which it also did. The TCC was never as smooth as before hand. The stock VB can actually hit 225psi in reverse.

No disrespect intended but did you even read my posts entirely? I received a dud VB and was not treated well by Revmax, it did not perform as advertised and because of that I did not purchase a built trans from them so I did not take advantage of the reimbursement. So that alone was a waste of money for me.

You are also wrong about the faster shifting being through tuning only. The Valvebody is also a major part in that as it is the brains in the transmission (yes the TCM is also part of the brain as well). I can tell you for a fact that my built trans shifts way quicker and that is partly because the VB is superior. It is the same tune as when I ran the revmax VB.

What I did not mention was that Revmax was blaming it on everything else. They said I clearly needed a new solenoid pack (the factory one worked perfect before and only had 30,000km's). I bought a new one (electronics aren't returnable) and it did the same thing. Went into limp mode on the first 2-3 shift. So I pulled the VB for the 3rd time and put my stock VB and stock solenoid back in. I fought with Revmax for a couple weeks and eventually they sent a new one. They told me they would refund me for all of the wasted ATF+4 and they never did. It was a waste of money and my time to do that mod. They also blamed it on the tune as well.

I agree fully that if you replace one thing you make the next thing inline the weak link. That is why I'm an advocate of doing it all or nothing when it comes to the 68rfe. I was warned by a few people at HPP not to just do a VB and I didn't listen. If you want to defend revmax or just throwing in a VB, by all means, be my guest. To each their own.

'14 3500 SLT CCLB SRW 68RFE 3.42
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 09:10 PM
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Well you said you bought it to shift faster, which it is not advertised to do because that would be achieved in tuning, so yeah your expectations were incorrect
Here you go. Right from the Revmax valvebody page:

Our 68RFE performance valve bodies feature the following

Ability to run up to 250psi of line pressure. (transmission tuning, TCM upgrade or pressure box is needed) No pump modifications required!
Upgraded Steel accumulator housing plate
RevMax proprietary separator plate with bonded gasket that eliminates cross leaks and warpage issues
Upgraded valve body to case seals that will not blow out like the factory ones do.
Billet Anodized SSV Solenoid Switch Valve
Increased Torque Converter Lockup Apply Pressure
Modified Fluid Passages
Orifice Diameters Changed
Shortened Shift Time
Complete Disassembly
Proprietary cleaning process removes all metal and clutch particles by using an automated valve body wash machine.
Ultrasonic cleaning of sensitive valve body parts
Revmax proprietary upgrades
Hand assembled in Charlotte, NC by Qualified and Caring Professionals!!
Mounting Surface Verified and Flat Filed
Threads Checked and Repaired if Needed
Computerized testing on our state of the art $125k valve body test machines

See where it says "Shortened Shift Time"? I believe that means faster shifting. Here is the link if you don't believe me. https://revmaxconverters.com/product...hd-valve-body/

So maybe before telling me that I'm incorrect you should get your facts straight. Again no disrespect intended. I just don't see why you feel the need to go out of your way to tell me that I'm wrong and be a smart a** about it.

'14 3500 SLT CCLB SRW 68RFE 3.42
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