Possible Water Pump Failure - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Possible Water Pump Failure

Looking for some input. I was going down the highway pulling my 30 ft camper with my 2012 2500. All was fine but then I hit traffic and came to a slow crawl and lost power steering and truck started to overheat immediately . I pulled over and noticed my serpentine belt had popped off. It had a knick in it but figured my best option was to try and run it to the campground to evaluate. Well I got it back on, started the struck and the belt immediately broke in half. I spun all the pulleys to make sure none were the culprit of my belt issues and the only one with some resistance is the water pump. I can still spin it but get some areas of resistance, is that normal? Is it possible the pump is failing and the slight resistance kicked the belt off? Not sure if I should get a belt or just tow it to the dodge dealer since I still have a certified factory warranty which would cover the pump . Thanks in advance .

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post #2 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 07:26 PM
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Find out why your belt failed, just popping off is no bueno. the water pump will have a little resistance from coolant but thats it.IMO , If you're under warranty let them deal with it.
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post #3 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 08:11 PM
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It sounds like your pump is about to fail, or has failed. That's what they do when they die, spit the belt off and leave you stranded. Electric pumps eliminate that failure point.
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post #4 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 08:32 PM
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It sounds like your pump is about to fail, or has failed. That's what they do when they die, spit the belt off and leave you stranded. Electric pumps eliminate that failure point.
If the cars that come into my shop every day are anything to go by, electric pumps are definitely something I donít want on any truck I own..........
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post #5 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 09:44 PM
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If the cars that come into my shop every day are anything to go by, electric pumps are definitely something I don’t want on any truck I own..........
I imagine most cars made today have an electric pump. The one I have has a 2 year unlimited miles guarantee with a life expectancy of 10,000 hrs.,, That translates to roughly 600,000 miles. I Can't seem to find that on any mechanical pump that I have ever found, or even a 30 day guarantee for that matter.

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post #6 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 01:47 PM
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I imagine most cars made today have an electric pump. The one I have has a 2 year unlimited miles guarantee with a life expectancy of 10,000 hrs.,, That translates to roughly 600,000 miles. I Can't seem to find that on any mechanical pump that I have ever found, or even a 30 day guarantee for that matter.

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post #7 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 01:49 PM
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Not unusual to see failed electric water pumps on cars that we work on at 45k miles. Rare to see one go over 120k. Firsthand experience.

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post #8 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 05:17 PM
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The great thing about mechanical pumps is they increase in pressure as the rpms go up, and that is where they shine over an electric pump. The bad part is they don't start working until around 3,000 rpms and that's the usable limit for the Cummins, and, when they get too high they start to cavitate, and they all do it, and that will be the death of it and your engine. Makes me wonder why we don't have mechanical fuel pumps if electric is soooo failure prone? Usually when an electric pump fails it just needs to be rebuilt. Did you know you can do that? Just pull the end cap off and put new brushes in and clean the armature off with some scotchbrite or emery cloth and away you go!

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post #9 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 05:28 PM
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Not unusual to see failed electric water pumps on cars that we work on at 45k miles. Rare to see one go over 120k. Firsthand experience.
I believe that for sure, but the same can be said for a mechanical pump, except when an electric pump fails it doesn't dump your coolant out into the road and get all over your tires, rip the belt off, and cause loss of power steering and brakes and now that you have coolant all over your tires, and can't steer you die in a fiery crash with a dozen other poor fools...no, it just stops, and the engine is still running and you can still drive to get off the hwy to call for help.

03 Dodge SHO CCLB Dually Banks intercooler 4" side draft intake. Carli/Thuren Argon filled Shocks, radius arms, SRW 4 link Conversion, 17"methods, 42" Goodyear MTR Kevlar Tires / 6 in a row ready to tow! NO BUSTERS
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post #10 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 06:38 PM
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The great thing about mechanical pumps is they increase in pressure as the rpms go up, and that is where they shine over an electric pump. The bad part is they don't start working until around 3,000 rpms and that's the usable limit for the Cummins...
I thought it was volume that increased with rpm, not pressure, but be that as it may.

What scares me is that I just found out that apparently I have several vehicles that have non-working water pumps.
If it requires 3,000 rpm for one to work, I need to get busy and install really small water pump pulleys on at least 80% of them. The remaining 20% I can rev quite high if necessary, so they should be fine as is.
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Maybe if we start telling people that the brain is an app, they will start using it?

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post #11 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 06:45 PM
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Be careful there Jimmy, much past 3k and your engine may spit out some frost plugs from the added pressure...

Have to question were some info comes from?

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post #12 of 389 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 06:46 PM
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Hows that line from Tommy boy go, something about a guaranteed POS.. I wish my memory was better.

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