Replacing VGT Turbo - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
4th Gen Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 12:40 PM
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Stupid or genius project...

OR Mega Cab - I have a 2014 2500 and am attempting to do the turbo replacement as well.
Most everything is coming out without much trouble. At the point of dinkin around with the drain bolts on the bottom...thanks for the advice on the wobble socket.
Probably should have read this before starting...my truck is stock, plan on leaving it that way.
If the exhaust manifold needs to come off, I may be in over my head on this.
Anyone else done this project?
Can the turbo be removed leaving the manifold in place?


Last edited by FrozenND; 02-12-2019 at 09:04 PM. Reason: I was just wrong.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 09:12 PM
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I was able to get the Turbo out on Sunday, without taking off the exhaust manifold.
There is a clearance issue. I needed maybe 3/8" - and there is enough "room" in the motor mounts to leave them in place, just jack the motor a small amount.
The project became a little more in depth than I planned...but it is out.
Ordered the BD stock replacement. Should be here this week. Plan to try to put it all back together this weekend when I am back at my house.
I was good about taking pictures at the start of the project...but when you are trying to make room to get the thing out...a bunch of stuff got unbolted without any documentation. Hope to try to take more when I put it back together.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:45 PM
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What are your results ? Are you happy with it ?
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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FrozenND: So sorry I never saw your post to reply to it. I'm guessing you are good to go by now. I did take the manifold out in order to remove the turbo. If I ever do this again, I would pull the EGR cooler & manifold first thing. It makes so mush more room to work and does not take all that long. This is also a good time to clean the EGR cooler & EGR valve.

Dunitic: No issues so far. It has operated 100% like the stock turbo. The only issue I had on reassembly was the turbo oil drain line popped out of the block when I was putting it all together and I did not notice this until I started the truck up and looked underneath it and had a 3' puddle of oil on the ground. I quickly turned the truck off and all was fine. It was a booger to get that drain pushed back into the hole it popped out of. I greased the O rings used a ratchet strap pulling down on part of it and pry bar pushing up on another part to push it inward. Got it in all the way and no leaks.

Truck has 136K on it now, I have driven several long trips, pulled the 30' toy hauler (21K at the scales) and no turbo issues. I use the exhaust brake frequently now whether I am towing or not. I believe this was the main cause of my failure was due to not using the exhaust break to "exercise" the turbo vanes often enough.

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 09:08 PM
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Dunitic: I ordered a stock replacement from dieselpowerproducts.com that was rebuilt by BD power.
The reason I got into this project. The dealership (which I will never go to again) wanted to just replace the actuator, for $3408 for the part alone. I looked online from mopar parts, and the MSRP should have been a lot closer to 2000. Then researching, you cannot replace the actuator at home...these need a computer to sync them with the turbo. I found the rebuilt turbo with a new actuator for 2600. OK - time to dig in and see if I can do it in the garage. The new turbo works fantastic...comparing to the old one I believe this builds more boost quicker. I had only owned the truck for 1 year...and honestly have been watching the boost gauge a lot since installing so it could all be in my mind.
If you are wondering about taking on the job - I needed another set of hands. If I didn't have some buddies to come over and help I would have had the truck towed in to a shop. I waited to order the turbo until the old one was out. I only needed about an extra 3/8" to get the turbo out...If I had en engine hoist I would have lift on the hook...but I put some blocks and a jack under the motor and it gave me JUST enough to get it out.

OR Mega Cab: By far the most difficult part was that oil drain line. I did go to the hardware store and put studs in. I believe this is the only way to go. The turbo bolts up to the manifold in minutes. Took about 3 hours for us to get that damn drain bolted back up. Just aligning it and moving it...no access...pain in the rear. Another problem that we had...and sounds like it happen to you...we put the turbo in so quickly I had forgotten about that drain line. Doing it over I would take much better care getting things kind in the general area before bolting the rest back up.

My only extra advise - Remove the battery box right away. I had the battery out...but left the box in.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 10:55 PM
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Most turbo failures on these trucks are actually the electronic actuator. An hour repair with a new one and your on your way. Most not all...

2015 Ram 2500 cc cummins
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 12:03 AM
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Most turbo failures on these trucks are actually the electronic actuator. An hour repair with a new one and your on your way. Most not all...
You should start up a business then and offer this hr repair service. Where were you back in 2011 after my second turbo

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 02:30 PM
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Thanks for the feed back. I bought my used 2011 Ram 2 years ago with 65000 miles to replace a trouble free 1999 7.3 ford (now my work truck). The ram was always a sluggish pig and the exhaust bake never worked. I just figured that's the way it was until I drove a friends. I guess its time to step up and replace my turbo.

Why didnt you guys but the Fleece Cheetah or the BD Screamer ?

FrozenND- Dis you have codes when yours went out ? I have none.
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 03:45 PM
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Why didnt you guys but the Fleece Cheetah or the BD Screamer ?

FrozenND- Dis you have codes when yours went out ? I have none.
Why put the same unreliable multi moving parts of a VGT back in?
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 06:00 PM
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N of 60 I am on the fence on what to get.

OR MEGA CAB and Frozen ND Both put in BD Re manufactured turbos
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 06:26 PM
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If you're happy with the performance of the stock turbo replace it with another stock turbo. Some fail under 100k some last 500k+. Kind of a crap shoot. An expensive one. But if stock emissions are important stock is pretty much you're only route. I'm not sure if the moded stock turbos work optimally with out some custom tuning.
If you want more power or better reliability swap to a fixed vein turbo. They have no electronics and if kept in their map and not barked tend to be much more reliable. Doing the swap wont necessarily lead to more power but it opens up the door so to speak.
Pretty much entirely up to you and what you're after. Research 2nd gen swaps and read till you're content.

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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 07:30 PM
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Thanks for the feed back. I bought my used 2011 Ram 2 years ago with 65000 miles to replace a trouble free 1999 7.3 ford (now my work truck). The ram was always a sluggish pig and the exhaust bake never worked. I just figured that's the way it was until I drove a friends. I guess its time to step up and replace my turbo.

Why didnt you guys but the Fleece Cheetah or the BD Screamer ?

FrozenND- Dis you have codes when yours went out ? I have none.
I went with the stock replacement because I have stock exhaust. From talking with the supplier, with stock exhaust there wouldn't be a reason to get the screamer. I did have a code that was "no communication with turbo" and the reason I took it in. Exhaust brake no longer worked, and didn't have the power that it should. There was a comment that when something goes wrong it is typically the actuator which is easy to replace. The problem is that it needs to be calibrated with the turbo, which I didn't want to give any money to the dealership. Plus it was only $600 more in parts to replace the entire thing. According to BD the electronics are upgraded but take that how you will. I didn't do the 2nd gen swap because I will only have this truck for a few years before trading it off. I only put about 7500 miles on per year.
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