Transfer case seal problems - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Transfer case seal problems

Hey guys im having a leak and heck of a time with where my drive shaft connects to transfer case. Trucks 2013 tradesmen with g56 i have photos of the output shaft i ordered it isnt close to fitting and i have what it had on there with no part number. Any help would be awesome. The first picture is the piece i took off and the third picture is the mopar part that everything ive read says should fit. The last picture side by side shows size dfferences

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 09:48 PM
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yeah i have been having serious issues with my aisin as69rc transfer case leaking. i cannot keep fluid in the thing. ive even gone as far as replacing the driveshaft. the splined output to the rear has hardly any runout/endplay, but who knows, maybe it really is wobbling.. i really don't want to have to R&R the tcase

i am trying lucas stop leak for transmission right now, ill let you know how it works!

i have tried changing the tcase rear output seal two times. the part number was: 68161329AA

oh, my truck is a 2014 ram 3500HD megacab dually.

for anyone who was wondering how to punch in the seal easily and not having to tap all around the circumference a million times, try using your argon/torch bottle(s) cap!


13' mustang gt TT 1100RWHP
14' 3500HD 1000TQ
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitmix300 View Post
yeah i have been having serious issues with my aisin as69rc transfer case leaking. i cannot keep fluid in the thing. ive even gone as far as replacing the driveshaft. the splined output to the rear has hardly any runout/endplay, but who knows, maybe it really is wobbling.. i really don't want to have to R&R the tcase

i am trying lucas stop leak for transmission right now, ill let you know how it works!

i have tried changing the tcase rear output seal two times. the part number was: 68161329AA

oh, my truck is a 2014 ram 3500HD megacab dually.

for anyone who was wondering how to punch in the seal easily and not having to tap all around the circumference a million times, try using your argon/torch bottle(s) cap!

I finally got it out and replaced i put some gasket maker on it. I ran my finger all the way around and couldnt feel any gap so hope it will work. The gas cylinder top is a great idea. I had to use a oil filter socket that worked pretty well. Hopefully that leak stop will fix yours up keep me posted.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Nickhansome View Post
I finally got it out and replaced i put some gasket maker on it. I ran my finger all the way around and couldnt feel any gap so hope it will work. The gas cylinder top is a great idea. I had to use a oil filter socket that worked pretty well. Hopefully that leak stop will fix yours up keep me posted.
man i really wish i would have put some gasket maker on the seal lip like you did. If i ever have to change the seal again i will do what you did for added measure.. The problem I see is stopping the permatex from smearing all over when you slide the driveshaft back in.

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14' 3500HD 1000TQ
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well saw some spots on my driveway. Output shaft seal is leaking again. Ordered a new one should be here Tuesday. Gonna replace the fluid in it as well. Cant win with this truck
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 07:38 PM
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My '02 1500 kept leaking there. I changed the seal a couple times. Was going to try a speedi-sleeve or new yoke next time around but bought the '17 before I had to do it again.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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My '02 1500 kept leaking there. I changed the seal a couple times. Was going to try a speedi-sleeve or new yoke next time around but bought the '17 before I had to do it again.
I'll keep an eye on it. That might be the next route im gonna have to take
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2019, 01:38 AM
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Sorry for the year late reply. Better late than never though.

Anyways, the Lucas stop leak fixed the normal leaking from the transfer case

However when the truck has serious weight behind it and it gets stuck or I have to tach it up Before it starts to move, that load makes the seal leak. Im guessing the twisting makes the output shaft move some. I think this winter I will disassembly the case and check all the bearings and the rear output shaft.

Whats odd is the case isnt noisey like you would expect with a bad bearing.

Does anybody have access to a diagram for parts on the borg Warner 44-46

2014 ram 3500hd 4x4 drw
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2019, 02:40 AM
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Go to a good parts store. and get an aftermarket, Be absolutely sure you get the right one. Check your TC model number on its tag and make sure you tell them which trani too. For good measure you can also measure accurately the yoke surface and the housing fit diameter. They can check the against the seal.
The big black rubber is just a dust cover and does not affect oil sealing in short term. Some seals come with it and some don't.
That year may have had 2-4 different TC's available.
Rockauto lists one but is out of stock.

You can often slide a good flat screw driver in along the shaft inside under the seal and pry it out on one side first. Sometimes grind a hooked point into it.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-13-2019, 04:17 AM
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I do not know about your TC model and can not see in your pics, but on my 241DHD the TC has a separate bolt on tail housing that contains that bearing supporting the outer part of the output shaft, It has a lock ring reached through an access hole to allow it to slide apart and replace the bearing without full removal and disassembly i think. Is your that way? If so that bearing alone cold be your problem. Is there any roughness or grooves in the yoke sealing surface? I doubt the sealer will do much for long.

99 2500, Quad cab, 4x4 47RE, BD pressure lock on it, small BD 90/140 chip on the VP 44 connection plug, 17" 3rd gen wheels. 3.55 diffs. Ruenell front bumper and warn winch, Rancho adj shocks. 663k miles.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-13-2019, 07:19 AM
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For you guys that are changing the seal multiple times and putting silicon goop where it doesn't belong, I'm gonna let you in on a secret.

There is a bushing in that tailhousing just behind the seal that wears out all the time. It allows the driveshaft yoke to wiggle in the housing. If you don't change that bushing, you can slam 100 seals and 10 pounds of goop in there and she will still leak.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-13-2019, 04:35 PM
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The only seal I've ever replaced that wasn't bearing related was shaft related. Either severely pitted or had a groove cut where the seal rode. If there is no apparent damage to the shaft then a bearing is all it can be and a new seal won't fix it. Either the yoke or the splined shaft is moving.

The seal is actually the gold colored part in the pics. The rubber boot is merely a dust cover.

And make sure the vent is not stopped up and building pressure in the TC.
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