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Transfer case seal problems

9K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  hitmix300 
#1 ·
Hey guys im having a leak and heck of a time with where my drive shaft connects to transfer case. Trucks 2013 tradesmen with g56 i have photos of the output shaft i ordered it isnt close to fitting and i have what it had on there with no part number. Any help would be awesome. The first picture is the piece i took off and the third picture is the mopar part that everything ive read says should fit. The last picture side by side shows size dfferences
 

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#2 ·
yeah i have been having serious issues with my aisin as69rc transfer case leaking. i cannot keep fluid in the thing. ive even gone as far as replacing the driveshaft. the splined output to the rear has hardly any runout/endplay, but who knows, maybe it really is wobbling.. i really don't want to have to R&R the tcase

i am trying lucas stop leak for transmission right now, ill let you know how it works!

i have tried changing the tcase rear output seal two times. the part number was: 68161329AA

oh, my truck is a 2014 ram 3500HD megacab dually.

for anyone who was wondering how to punch in the seal easily and not having to tap all around the circumference a million times, try using your argon/torch bottle(s) cap!

 
#3 ·
I finally got it out and replaced i put some gasket maker on it. I ran my finger all the way around and couldnt feel any gap so hope it will work. The gas cylinder top is a great idea. I had to use a oil filter socket that worked pretty well. Hopefully that leak stop will fix yours up keep me posted.
 
#6 ·
My '02 1500 kept leaking there. I changed the seal a couple times. Was going to try a speedi-sleeve or new yoke next time around but bought the '17 before I had to do it again.
 
#8 ·
Sorry for the year late reply. Better late than never though.

Anyways, the Lucas stop leak fixed the normal leaking from the transfer case

However when the truck has serious weight behind it and it gets stuck or I have to tach it up Before it starts to move, that load makes the seal leak. Im guessing the twisting makes the output shaft move some. I think this winter I will disassembly the case and check all the bearings and the rear output shaft.

Whats odd is the case isnt noisey like you would expect with a bad bearing.

Does anybody have access to a diagram for parts on the borg Warner 44-46

2014 ram 3500hd 4x4 drw
 
#9 ·
Go to a good parts store. and get an aftermarket, Be absolutely sure you get the right one. Check your TC model number on its tag and make sure you tell them which trani too. For good measure you can also measure accurately the yoke surface and the housing fit diameter. They can check the against the seal.
The big black rubber is just a dust cover and does not affect oil sealing in short term. Some seals come with it and some don't.
That year may have had 2-4 different TC's available.
Rockauto lists one but is out of stock.

You can often slide a good flat screw driver in along the shaft inside under the seal and pry it out on one side first. Sometimes grind a hooked point into it.
 
#10 ·
I do not know about your TC model and can not see in your pics, but on my 241DHD the TC has a separate bolt on tail housing that contains that bearing supporting the outer part of the output shaft, It has a lock ring reached through an access hole to allow it to slide apart and replace the bearing without full removal and disassembly i think. Is your that way? If so that bearing alone cold be your problem. Is there any roughness or grooves in the yoke sealing surface? I doubt the sealer will do much for long.
 
#11 ·
For you guys that are changing the seal multiple times and putting silicon goop where it doesn't belong, I'm gonna let you in on a secret.

There is a bushing in that tailhousing just behind the seal that wears out all the time. It allows the driveshaft yoke to wiggle in the housing. If you don't change that bushing, you can slam 100 seals and 10 pounds of goop in there and she will still leak.
 
#12 ·
The only seal I've ever replaced that wasn't bearing related was shaft related. Either severely pitted or had a groove cut where the seal rode. If there is no apparent damage to the shaft then a bearing is all it can be and a new seal won't fix it. Either the yoke or the splined shaft is moving.

The seal is actually the gold colored part in the pics. The rubber boot is merely a dust cover.

And make sure the vent is not stopped up and building pressure in the TC.
 
#13 ·
The only seal I've ever replaced that wasn't bearing related was shaft related. Either severely pitted or had a groove cut where the seal rode. If there is no apparent damage to the shaft then a bearing is all it can be and a new seal won't fix it. Either the yoke or the splined shaft is moving.
Mine was obviously the yoke - corrosion. I polished it up best I could the last time I changed it and was going to try a speedi-sleeve or new yoke next time the seal leaked but sold the truck before I got there.
 
#14 ·
My 2nd gen TC seal leaked repeatedly for years. Replaced it too many times with parts store parts. People told me to replace the bushing but I've been around auto mechanics long enough to know that my bushing clearance was not out of spec. Some people will tell you that ANY movement is wrong and thats completely false. They do move, just not very much.

That said, I eventually came across a shop who worked specifically on these trucks and they said that they've found that ANY seal other than OEM will leak on the TC output. Even though most aftermarket replacement seals have the same design and look, they simply lack the strength and integrity of the OEM factory seal.

Given that the OEM seal is usually multiple times more money than the parts store stuff, its understandable why people will try that route over and over.

Lastly, I've noticed that my seal will not leak until I tow a very heavy 5th wheel. I attributed this to the dirty/rougher slip yoke surface getting pushed up into the seal from the added pin weight on the rear, so now I make sure my slip yoke surface is greased and smooth.
 
#15 ·
Some people will tell you that ANY movement is wrong and thats completely false. They do move, just not very much.
Thats true, but it was more so in the early days of babbit and bronze bushings, they required oil clearance for lube/longevity. For the past 20 years, nearly all the domestic manufacturers have used steel backed teflon bushings that run quite snug to the shaft.

Even though most aftermarket replacement seals have the same design and look, they simply lack the strength and integrity of the OEM factory seal.
The OEM seals for Borg Warner, & New Venture are either Freudenberg-NOK or National . Check to see what brand 90% of your aftermarket seals are (not the brand on the box as they are all re-branded), but get out your good reading spectacles and look at the actual rubber of the seal. You might be surprised.
 
#19 ·
hi bigfish95971

we were talking about the rear seal originally. then Saintly mentioned a bushing. The bushing is what I was referring to. if you read the whole thread you'll see i provided the oem part number for the rear seal over a year ago

thanks for the help :banana2:

i think i found the bushing saintly is referring to..

https://www.diffsonly.com/ZTBSHBW44...Bushing-for-BW4446-Transfer-Case_p_21040.html
 
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