'09 and newer free spin hub conversion - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
4th Gen Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 08:46 PM
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How does it draw grease . It is stable to 550 degrees so it wont run. I just dont see how it could use any of it except what is in bearings. They need to be cleaned and packed every year any way.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 11:22 PM
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28. Pack the new wheel bearings with grease. Proper packing of the bearings is essential to bearing life and safety. Grease must thoroughly and completely fill the voids between each roller, especially underneath the roller cage. Do not just smear grease around the outside. This can easily be accomplished by hand or with a simple bearing packer and grease gun available at any auto parts store. If you are not sure how to pack a bearing by hand, Dynatrac can provide a one page guide written by Timken via Fax, Email, or USMail on request. Load the inner bearing (large) into the new hub.

WARNING: Properly packing the wheel bearings is essential to bearing life. Failure to properly lubricate a bearing can result in bearing failure, damage to other components, and risk of serious injury or death.

29. Prepare the large hub seal for installation by generously greasing all lips on the seal. See Illustration 3. This will prevent any damage to the sealing surfaces. Drive the hub seal into the back of the hub. The open side of the seal faces the inside of the hub.

30. Liberally grease the area inside the hub between the bearings, up to the inside diameter of the inner & outer bearings. Do not skimp on the grease, completely fill this area. There must be enough grease between the bearings so that centrifugal force does not pull grease away from the bearings into the center of the hub.

31. After fully packing with grease, install the new wheel hubs onto the spindles. Be careful not to damage the hub seal as it slides over the threaded end of the spindle. Push the hub onto the spindle until the inner bearing bottoms out. If it gets stuck part way, stop! Pull the hub off and try again, keeping the bearing straight as it slides onto the spindle. Push the outer bearing over the end of the spindle and into the open end of the hub. It must seat against the outer race in the wheel hub.

**The above is from my PDF copy of the Dynatrac installation instructions. If you look at the link I posted above, you will see that the shop I paid to do it failed to think it was necessary. Problems surfaced as a result. I did it myself this time.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 11:29 PM
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Be sure to generously lube the stub shaft bearings inside the spindle and re-lube them whenever you lube the wheel bearings. It's kind of a pain to get those bearings out and lube them correctly, but if they fail (mine did) you have to replace the stub shaft and press the U joint apart.

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Sammi91 View Post
How does it draw grease . It is stable to 550 degrees so it wont run. I just dont see how it could use any of it except what is in bearings. They need to be cleaned and packed every year any way.
Two mutually contacting, rolling surfaces will definitely pull grease into them when turning. Grease is actually a semi-solid liquid or a highly viscous liquid. That being said, go ahead and grease your bearings any way you want to...personally I did mine just according to the instructions that came with my DynaTrac kit that Mudman quoted above.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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I've done enough trailer and car wheel bearings in my lifetime to know that the open area in the hub needs to be packed with grease. SpynTec seems to assume the installing mechanic already knows stuff like that, including which way to face the seals. DynaTrac obviously makes no such assumptions about their customers, and furnishes a set of good instructions with their kit. Like seafish said, if you dispute this, go ahead and experiment on your own hubs if you want to, but I'm not going to.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 06:17 PM
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If there's a hole in NTG's schedule next week,my Dynatrac freespins,bj's and u-joints are going in.Can't wait!

'07 2500 SLT,5.9,Regcab.,G-56,4wd,Northstar TC800 popup 24/7. SBC OKHD. Dynatrac freespins and bj's. Synergy HD steering. Suspension mutt courtesy of Kore, Carli and Thuren.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 09:13 PM
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If there's a hole in NTG's schedule next week,my Dynatrac freespins,bj's and u-joints are going in.Can't wait!
I'm sure you'll like the Dynatrac ball joints. They drive nice and mine have lasted a long time, maybe 160,000 miles. If I had it to do over, I'd skip the free spin hub setup. Here's why: First I had a defective hub that Dynatrac replaced under warrantee. Then a bad stub shaft bearing that damaged the stub shaft and the new hub. Those were replaced by me at my cost. Now the wheel bearings are beginning to talk to me. Twice I was stranded in the mountains in a snow storm with no 4WD before I got it straightened out. Plus there was no increase in mileage that I noticed. It's a nice idea, and it makes the U joints last longer, but it's expensive and requires periodic maintenance that is not easy. I have used 2WD low, but only a couple of times, and 4WD low would have worked too.

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-02-2014, 01:34 AM
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I've had the Spyntec kit on my truck for two years. No issues yet.

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