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Thoughts on Iron horn kit?

22K views 48 replies 11 participants last post by  cumminsdieselfreak 
#1 ·
2nd time getting my p2262 and other codes, so my turbo is going out 🙂 So I need some help here! Tuned by anarchy/5in tbe. Plan on staying stock fuel, but would like to go with a good turbo that has some nuts. I don’t tow everyday, just occasionally. I keep seeing this iron horn kit and was curious to what others think of it, especially for the price? And what size they went with and why considering there’s 364 up to 369. Not too big on 2nd gen swaps but I’m also not very informed on them, just know they’re a chunk more. I plan on buying arkund thanksgiving (hoping there’s some good Black Friday deals lol)
 
#3 ·
Yeah I’m 1500ish seems nicer then 3500ish, and yes a 5.9 sounds good but idk about that much more. From what I’ve seen, a 364.5 is the highest for stock fuel, but I’ve seen a few people say go with a 366 even though bd recommends bigger injectors for that? Really now I’d just like input on a 364.5 vs 366. Being in lower elevation (2800ft) I’ll probably go with a 1.0ar on either one, unless I hear otherwise!
 
#4 ·
When I ditch the stock vgt I'm going to go with a BD iron horn kit. Anarchy told me at my elevation (2500ft) and towing ~9000lbs about 35% of time with no plans of adding fuel, to go with the 366sxe. I'll be going with the 1.0 AR and am still debating on going with the 364.5sxe but in the off chance I add fuel I'll probably end up going with the 366 as apparently they don't spool much slower than the stock vgt on stock fuel.
 
#6 ·
From my research and with the correct tune the 364.5 spools the same as the stock vgt off the line but maybe lights just a bit slower rolling on the throttle at highway speeds but isn't much different. The 366 lights a bit slower than stock ~100-150rpm from what I've been told but packs a wicked punch once lit. The 369 needs more fuel than stock and the 363 spools a bit quicker than stock and is almost a waste on a 6.7 Cummins as they flow so much air unless you are at extreme altitude and aren't trying to run max fuel the stock pump and injectors can fuel. There's a few guys with stock fuel with the 364.5 that wish they went up to the 366. I haven't found anyone who regrets going with the 366 even on stock fuel. If you want go ahead and call though and see if they give you different answers. Make sure to report back on your findings or what you end up going with.
 
#7 ·
I went with Iron horn kit when my VGT went out.

I WAS looking at getting another VGT, performance type unit. Mainly cause I tow often and wanted exhaust brake ( EB for the remaining of this thread to save from typing exhaust brake, cause I really hate typing words, like Exhaust Brake. So to save time from typing Exhaust Brake I’ll shorten it to EB)

I discovered the iron horn kit. I like it because it uses factory intake system instead of the “ hot air “ intakes on 2nd gen conversations. I went with the 364.5 turbo. It pulls very hard, lots more force than factory. Low RPM OR slow speed driving is about the same as stock. But, on the highway, once the turbo spools and moves massive amounts of air, it’ll put you in the seat. Obviously not a race truck, but I’ve taken out an early 2000s vett, Ran side by side with a 5.0 Mustang ( 130plus), and dead even with a 392 charger. Impressive for 8000# beast. But it’s not for racing, my goal is Reliable, strong towing. And this truck will pull my ~#10,000 dump trailer with ease. Still feel it back there, but it it’ll reach speed like nothing, pull up mountain passes with little stress.

Maybe all aftermarket kits 2nd or 3rd gen are like that.? Not sure, admittedly this is my first time. I like the iron horn kit because it looks near stock. It’ll take original emissions equipment if wanted.


I added the BD exhaust brake ( EB for short as I really hate typing Exhaust Brake ). It operates equal to the original as far as buttons and settings. It seems much stronger than the original VGT EB ( (EB stands for Exhaust Brake ). On dirt roads in 4 low, the EB ( Exhaust Brake) causes the rear tires to skid.

If I could make a change, I think I would have selected the 366 turbo. And gotten the 5” EB ( Exhaust Brake).

I’d recommend getting a throttle booster too. Makes a huge drivability improvement when city driving.
 
#8 ·
A 392?? Man that makes me smile on what I’ll be getting myself into.. the EB worth it then? Because it is like $300 right? The factory eb hasn’t ever been that great for me so I was iffy. Also I’ve heard so many back and forth on throttle boosters. People say when you tune that does the throttle booster, therefore not needed?
 
#9 ·
The EB cost $1400 or something if I recall. If money no issue and you tow often you may want to look at pac Brake is supposed to be a better solution.

I bought a pedal commander a few years back. Best modification I’ve done, including the turbo swap. It totally changes the way the truck drives. Mainly in city type driving, it accelerates like a car. It really only improves city stop n go type driving. Just the pedal commander made truck drive like a light car. It’s how the truck should have driven from the factory.

Now that I’ve deleted n tuned, I can say the throttle booster alone feels like a tune n deleted truck when city driving. I removed the throttle booster after I tuned n deleted, and truck basically drove the same in city driving (stop n go stuff). I later reinstalled the booster, and the truck now drives like a beast when city driving.

I contacted my tuner to see if they could improve throttle response. They advised me to buy and use a throttle booster, even with a tune.


Honestly, when I first bought the booster, I was ready to return it with in a week. I was convinced there was no way a throttle booster would make a difference. I was figuring I could just press the throttle further or faster to get same results. But, the booster really works different. It NOT the same as pressing harder. Think of an older car where you have a kick down cable on the transmission. On those cars you can tighten that cable and get an improvement. The booster has that effect.

I highly recommend any throttle booster for Cummins trucks, stock, tuned, deleted and so on. Again, honestly best Single modification I’ve done to this truck, INCLUDING the iron horn kit. Like I said, stop n go driving is about the same with a deleted n tuned with turbo. If I only did stop n go driving and could have “ throttle booster “ OR “ tune n delete “. I’d pick the throttle booster. Obviously the iron horn kit is on a whole new level on open roads.
 
#11 ·
may have to look into that then.. i still need to get my gauges as i’ve been lagging on it (decided to go with autometer rather than a monitor because of the looks & accuracy) so after i get those i may have to look into this throttle booster. how long have you had your iron horn kit? did your mpg go up at all or did it drop a lot? i drive pretty good as i’m always watching my mpg but i do occasionally let her roar lol also does anyone know if i should bite the bullet now or maybe wait and see if black friday will have any good discounts on this kit? i just don’t know how much life the vgt has left
 
#10 ·
I'm just joining into this thread as I too am looking at the iron horn kits. The shop I've been speaking to has recommended the 366/80 0.91 AR for my truck that is stock apart from deletes and tunes. This will be for a truck that doesn't tow super often, but when it does its 10k+ behind the truck. Stock fuel system and no real plans to go fro crazy power. Just aiming for a truck that's reliable and fun to run around town in
 
#19 ·
Here's what they said... kinda surprised by their answer actually.

Buttttttt I got this email a few hours after I gave the shop the go ahead to order everything so I'll be having the s366/80 0.91AR and Breakout Tuning with CSP5 switch installed early next week. I should get the truck back by Wednesday so I will make sure to update here on how it is
 

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#21 ·
I have the S366 1.0 AR on stock fuel and wish I went with .91 or maybe even an S364. Unless you like living in the upper RPM range its a waste. I've gotten to the point that I manually shift it merging onto the freeway and cruising around to limit smoke output.
This is kinda good news for me. I selected a 364.5 with 1.0 AR. When selecting the turbo I was bouncing between 364.5 and 366. Then I was confused about the AR.

After a few months of driving with the 364.5 I was wondering if I should have gotten the 366.

I tow often and wanted that low-end power. I was told the 363 would be the best stock replacement, as far as equal performance. But I decided to go one level higher.

I'm VERY happy with the 364.5 and its drivability. It leaves a stop very hard if I use the throttle hard. Once the turbo spools, it just launches like a rocket. I was thinking the 366 will pull harder.

Post your results after you driven for a while, I'd like to hear more reviews on the 366.
 
#20 ·
I have the S366 1.0 AR on stock fuel and wish I went with .91 or maybe even an S364. Unless you like living in the upper RPM range its a waste. I've gotten to the point that I manually shift it merging onto the freeway and cruising around to limit smoke output.
 
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#22 ·
I certainly hope the .91 has better daily driving manners than that. Otherwise I'm gonna have some choice words with the shop as they're the ones that pushed for the s366. I made it very clear I want as little smoke as possible too.

This is kinda good news for me. I selected a 364.5 with 1.0 AR. When selecting the turbo I was bouncing between 364.5 and 366. Then I was confused about the AR.

After a few months of driving with the 364.5 I was wondering if I should have gotten the 366.

I tow often and wanted that low-end power. I was told the 363 would be the best stock replacement, as far as equal performance. But I decided to go one level higher.

I'm VERY happy with the 364.5 and its drivability. It leaves a stop very hard if I use the throttle hard. Once the turbo spools, it just launches like a rocket. I was thinking the 366 will pull harder.

Post your results after you driven for a while, I'd like to hear more reviews on the 366.
I will be keeping this thread updated, I'd like to provide as much info as I can so others don't have to make an expensive leap based on very little experience. The turbo should be in by end of Thursday so I will post back in about a week with initial thoughts
 
#30 ·
I just did the iron horn kit this last weekend. I went with a 364.5/91ar. But I prefer a quick spool over top end as I find it more usable in daily tasks. Spools way faster than stock and getting 40+psi (new boost gauge is not going in until this weekend. I have a g56 on a stock clutch so tuner is set on +30 for now.
 
#32 ·
Yeah went from 14ish to 19ish around town. 17 or so if I am being playful. I have been pretty nice without having a pyro. And super responsive on the +30 tune, very quick off the line, 1st is useless at this time. By the time my foot hits the floor its already spooling and running out of gear until I'm in 4th. With the mm3 I am watching fuel rail pressure and its building fast but I don't have a lift pump pressure gauge so I don't know how close I am to dropping pressure there but rail pressure is solid.
 
#33 ·
whaaaaat that is insane. i’ve been trying to figure out how to get my mpg up cuz i’m at around 14 right now, even when i drive like a grandma. so that made my day, i’m just waiting to hear on the other guy see what he thinks of the 366 .91ar. i just ordered my rail pressure gauge, should be here friday so i can finish up my pillar.
 
#34 ·
Well It's done, and boy is it ever fun now. The truck isn't any less drive-able than it was stock in my books. About 1500-1900 rpm you start to feel it building power, 2000-2500 you're moving, and 2500-3000 is holy sh*t. I've had the truck on the +60 hp tune the entire time, smoke isn't bad in my books. It's a very thin haze of smoke but my air filter needs to be cleaned so that might be causing part of the haze.

I already miss my EB coming down hills though, so an inline one might be in my future.

Truck drives very well around town, and scoots when you want to get moving too.

Oh and according to my dash I am getting improved mpg as well, went from 14-16 L/100km to 11-13 L/100km. (although my tune is for 32" tires and I am on 33's so I'm not sure if that affects the fuel economy calculator, I use fuelly so I will post numbers from that after I run through a few tanks)

Overall I am happy with my purchase, I do wonder how the 364.5 would drive in comparison but so far no regrets.
 
#35 ·
glad hearing back, i plan on getting this now. after that guy with the 1.0 saying his truck couldn’t even be driven around town had me a lil worried, wouldn’t think the .91 made that much of a difference but that shows my knowledge of turbos lol with your tires that means your odometer is a little off but by 3%. i wish you could post videos on here i’d love to see you on wot 😂 we’ll now i can’t wait to order mine only one month let’s pray someone has a good black friday deal
 
#37 ·
Driving around town on tune 3 it's not smoking and its not unpleasant to drive at all, I am definitely happy with it! I'll see if I can get a video and upload a youtube link for you, are you wanting to see smoke output or what are you looking to see?

As for my tire size, I've always been under the impression that the odometer was calculated off of something else so that tire size wouldn't affect that but maybe I'm wrong on that one, speedometer wise I dont care that much but if its affecting my odometer too then I'd like to get it fixed.[/QUOTE]

well that’s good i don’t want my truck to smoke; and yeah how clean it is and maybe the speedo to see how quick she is (; odometer runs with speedometer, your tires being a 33 (tune is for 32) your tires are making a full revolution slower than a 32, hence covering more ground, which correlates too your truck thinking your traveling less so that offsets your speedo, and unless things have changed your speedo runs with your odometer (70mph for one hour would put 70 miles on odo) sorry if that doesn’t make sense there are much better explanations than mine i’m sure lol
 
#38 ·
Driving around town on tune 3 it's not smoking and its not unpleasant to drive at all, I am definitely happy with it! I'll see if I can get a video and upload a youtube link for you, are you wanting to see smoke output or what are you looking to see?

As for my tire size, I've always been under the impression that the odometer was calculated off of something else so that tire size wouldn't affect that but maybe I'm wrong on that one, speedometer wise I dont care that much but if its affecting my odometer too then I'd like to get it fixed.
well that’s good i don’t want my truck to smoke; and yeah how clean it is and maybe the speedo to see how quick she is (; odometer runs with speedometer, your tires being a 33 (tune is for 32) your tires are making a full revolution slower than a 32, hence covering more ground, which correlates too your truck thinking your traveling less so that offsets your speedo, and unless things have changed your speedo runs with your odometer (70mph for one hour would put 70 miles on odo) sorry if that doesn’t make sense there are much better explanations than mine i’m sure lol[/QUOTE]

It'll smoke if you get on it hard, but I can easily accelerate without smoking. I'll try to get a video or two for you either tomorrow or the day after, hopefully they turn out alright lol.

I know on my previous car the speedometer and the odometer read individually so that tire size wouldn't affect the odometer, but what you said makes sense to me
 
#39 ·
Didn't get the chance to take any video this past weekend, I'll try to get some next weekend for you when I've got a passenger to film smoke output for me otherwise you probably won't be able to see anything if I'm the one filming it lol
 
#41 ·
https://youtu.be/3XDkNPgwxVU

https://youtu.be/3sp1zy1toX0

Here are the links to the videos I took this weekend. One is smoke output and the other is speedometer. They are not from the same pull however they were both pretty similar. Although the speedometer pull was actually going up a slight incline.
 
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#44 ·
Yes it runs very clean in my books, and thats with a dirty air filter that seriously needs to be cleaned too. So should clean up a little bit more too!

As for the 68rfe, well I sure hope it lasts long enough for me to save up the money to build it lol..[/QUOTE]

i’ve seen them go 300k miles.. i’m hoping i can get that out of mine i’m half way lol
 
#45 ·
Any more reports on the ironhorn kits? I am about to pull the trigger on deletes and the ironhorn.
My concern is this. Which tuner tunes the iron horn best?? I am not looking for tunes for the factory turbo and i don’t want to use a guy that hasn’t tuned for an ironhorn yet. I want a single tune with an ironhorn turbo that a tuner is comfortable tuning. The VGT etc will be packed away for future state inspections (TX). Just want a one and done approach with zero back and forth with revisions. A low stock level or tow tune and a happy Aisin. I am at a low altitude.
The truck is a 3500 DRW that sits at 11,000-14,000 daily GVW plus the occasional 10,000 tow.
I am not at all against fine tuning on the dyno. I will be doing all the work except the fine tuning on my own.
What are the most current recommendations?
 
#46 ·
Why not do an s300 kit that lets you keep the stock manifold for HE351VE style? Its cheaper and would not require a new manifold (unless you want a 2pc manidold)
 
#47 ·
Why not do an s300 kit that lets you keep the stock manifold for HE351VE style? Its cheaper and would not require a new manifold (unless you want a 2pc manidold)
I just saw that type of a swap for the first time on a video done by Alligator on you tube this morning. I don’t mind keeping the factory manifold. I am not seeing the kit they talked about on their website though. What seller do you recommend to bolt it to the factory manifold? Who makes the kit?
 
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