Couple of questions, HeavyTwo. (1) why did you delete the grid heater, is this not causing issues for you in cold weather? (2) You say you are getting black smoke when accelerating, which GDP tune are you running. Have you tried other GDP tunes?
1. The Grid Heater: When I replaced the turbo, I went ahead and optimized the air flow. Larger boost tubes, larger Charge Air Cooler, larger intake horn, removal of restrictive grid heater, mandrel bent exhaust piping, removal of emissions related exhaust components. Basically, everything to improve airflow from the air filter to the exhaust tip.
Unless you live in a very cold climate, you will be fine with no intake heater. My truck starts just fine when it's cold out. If I recall, I've started it when it was in the 20's.
Finally, there are issues where a bolt on the grid heater milts and falls into the engine. Repairs can be around ~$10,000 to $22,000 if that bolt gets into a cylinder. And, it may not be that much money, but my concern is downtime.
2. On the tune: I have an aftermarket turbo, a non-VGT unit. So the tune needs to be for non-VGT. I also have an exhaust brake that does REQUIRE VGT being enabled. So, kinda a catch 22. It's hard to convince a tuner that you have a NON -VGT turbo, and you NEED VGT enabled. They then correct you and tell you to use TUNE XXX that has VGT disabled, cause you don't have a VGT turbo. Then you have to explain that the exhaust brake controller needs the VGT signals to function. Then, they now assume you have a VGT turbo and instruct you to use a VGT based tune. But that won't work right, cause you don't have a VGT turbo. And round n round we go discussing why it is I need VGT enabled, yet have a non-VGT turbo.
Sooo, I have a "unique" tune that has most the VGT features disabled, except the feature that allows the aftermarket EB to function. I'm using the SOTF tune. I have tried a non SOFT type tune. It's been awhile, I guess I should switch tunes and see if it stops smoking.