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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Power connection for backup camera question.


Just got a backup camera from Amazon. Nice little unit with a 7inch display.

I want to wire this so that it is all the time ON at ALL TIMES.

Got the camera because too many tailgaters in my area and almost had an accident. These fools want to drive inches from your bumper. I guess that this is the latest fad around here...

Does someone know where to tap SWITCHED 12V power that is from the fuse box without splicing any wires? (Seat heater fuse?, where is it?)

I would like to insert a wire somewhere there and also use the main ground on the fender across the fuse box.

Also, what is the best way to route the power and signal cable inside the cab?

I would like not to drill a hole in the bulkhead. Maybe someone knows of a pop-out or some other way to do this. I was thinking of routing the cables using the heater hose holes, but that may be too hot for the plastic insulation.

My intent is not to touch anything in the truck. The camera monitor will go on top of the dash with the mounting jig that came in the kit.

Any responses and opinions are welcome. I am asking this question as the search did not provide concrete answers for this case.

Thank You all.

2010 6.7L 2WD
Almost completely stock.
Dropped useless engine and exhaust parts on bumpy road.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 08:45 PM
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There are a couple options for keyed power in the cab, the first is Pink wire with yellow tracer under the dash which was suggested by Spage2011 in another thread; or, use the cigarette/ 12 volt port in the center console (I used this one for my air horn compressor trigger). As far as routing cables, I run all of mine through the rubber grommet above and to the left of the brake pedal on the firewall. All that you need to do is poke or drill a small diameter hole in the grommet and fish the wires through, if you wish you can seal up the grommet after running your wires with some RTV or silicone sealant. I am not sure what the pink wire with the yellow tracer goes to so use at your own discretion, that is why I went with the cigarette lighter because I know how many volts/AMPs that I will be drawing and I will not burn up any expensive OEM parts. Hope that this helps.

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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-29-2012, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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I finished installing the camera.

It is a PLCM7700 by Pyle. Got it off Amazon for $67. It has a 7in screen and is the wired camera.

The thin coax that came with the camera proved to be too short. It was 17ft, but still 3ft short. I got a 20ft male-male RCA audio cable at Radio Shack for $9. This wire gives good signal, as compared with some internet instructions that say otherwise. Go figure...

I routed the wiring, power and signal through the grommet to the left of the brake pedal on the firewall. I did not poke a hole in the rubber, so I took a screwdriver and pushed it aside and inserted both cables.

The power connection (12VDC) came from the switched lighter. I want the camera to be on all times, as here, some smart Bozos love to tailgate. I had to make a power buss, from this power connection with 3 power access, one for the camera, one for the screen and another to plug into the lighter. All was done with some spade connectors male/female from Home Depot.

I removed the dashboard bezed and inserted all of that wiring covered with a piece of thin carpet for a rattle free ride. I routed the screen cable through the top, so that can place the screen on the dashboard. This worked fine, but I had to be really careful of screwing it back so that it does not totally pinch this cable.

The camera is wired to the back of the truck, and I inserted the wire conections of the camera, signal and power in a small tupperware box, that is tied to the frame, so no water and protection from disconnection.

Camera works well, but it is cheap a**. Nothing more than a webcam on a waterproof enclosure. Good image during daylight, at night not so good. Was a pain to mount as when the tailgate is lowered it did interfere with my mount, so had to make another one so that the camera is lowered, it sits now covering the state name of the license plate. That was the best location, bolted to an aluminum mount on the upper screws of the plate. Using the lower screws gave too much view obstruction from the bumper.

The screen has two modes, 16:9 and 4x5. The image is quite distorted, like squished when using the panoramic setting.

Total work about 3 hours, not counting trip to Radio Shack to get the cable. Again, the image is not that sharp nor great due to this thing being cheap a**. You get what you pay for. When prices go down, I will get a higher resolution camera. I anticipate that this one can really get your eyes tired. But at $67 total, who is to complain. PepBoys sells a 3.5in screen for much more than that.

Thanks to all that have helped me in this forum.

2010 6.7L 2WD
Almost completely stock.
Dropped useless engine and exhaust parts on bumpy road.
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