Question about brake pads and rotors - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Question about brake pads and rotors

I am tired of squeaky brakes so I’m looking for the best option for replacing. I am thinking about EBC green stuff pads and new calipers. One rear caliper slide pin is stuck, so I guess I’ll replace all 4. Or should I only replace the stuck one? Should I replace the rotors too? i don’t know how to tell if the rotors are glazed but I don’t think they are warped because I don’t get any feedback in the pedal.

What is y’all’s opinion on this?

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 07:04 PM
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remove, clean, lubricate. I use silgluide on my slider pins. I only replace them if they are in really bad condition, but generally if you clean the pin and the hole for the pin, there is no need to replace them

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loki223 View Post
remove, clean, lubricate. I use silgluide on my slider pins. I only replace them if they are in really bad condition, but generally if you clean the pin and the hole for the pin, there is no need to replace them
How do I remove the slide pin from the caliper bracket? It seemed like it was fixed inside the boot?

I removed everything today and used silglide lube on the pad ears and the backs of the pads but didn’t think I could get into lube the slide pins.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Is there any problem with changing pads and keeping my current rotors?

Would there be a problem using new pads on my current rotors and then later on getting new rotors?

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-14-2019, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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I bled and flushed the brakes and now Iím curious. Should the brake pedal pump all the way to the floor with the engine not running? I donít see any leaking fluid so I think everything is tightened up. With the engine running my brakes operate like they should and the pedal doesnít sink to the floor. I also tried the 3 pump then start the engine and the pedal sank a little and then kicked back at me a little. I think thatís testing the hydro boost?

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 02:02 AM
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Yes this would be testing your hyrdroboost.

As for slide pins, I'm of the opinion that since they are rather low cost it never hurts to have a spare set ready and on hand when doing brakes. Whether or not you replace them is up to you, but if they move freely by hand I'll usually just clean out the bracket & then re-lube the bracket hole and the slide pin before reassembling.

For removing a slide pin that's stuck, I found that some heat and an impact gun will do you wonders. A simple MAP gas torch is enough for this task. What I found to work the best was to take the slide pin bolt, and run it down with an impact until it's nice and tight. Then heat the bracket where the slide pin would be for 2~3 minutes, then take your impact gun and try to tighten that bolt even more. The vibration seems to do wonders for getting a seized slide pin out and the slide pin should break free and start spinning freely within 10 seconds. Then its just a simple task of cleaning out the bracket and installing a new slide pin, after letting the bracket cool down of course

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 02:53 AM
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Ceramic pads will be a lot quieter and smoother, and last longer. If that pin/sleeve can be pounded apart it can be cleaned and the others can be cleaned and out put back. Sand paper and rolled sandpaper or a pistol brush can be used. Just clean and lube them if not frozen solid together. But they are not expensive.

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtondat View Post
Yes this would be testing your hyrdroboost.

As for slide pins, I'm of the opinion that since they are rather low cost it never hurts to have a spare set ready and on hand when doing brakes. Whether or not you replace them is up to you, but if they move freely by hand I'll usually just clean out the bracket & then re-lube the bracket hole and the slide pin before reassembling.

For removing a slide pin that's stuck, I found that some heat and an impact gun will do you wonders. A simple MAP gas torch is enough for this task. What I found to work the best was to take the slide pin bolt, and run it down with an impact until it's nice and tight. Then heat the bracket where the slide pin would be for 2~3 minutes, then take your impact gun and try to tighten that bolt even more. The vibration seems to do wonders for getting a seized slide pin out and the slide pin should break free and start spinning freely within 10 seconds. Then its just a simple task of cleaning out the bracket and installing a new slide pin, after letting the bracket cool down of course <img src="https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
Thank you. I will do that to get the stuck pin out this weekend when the new pads I ordered arrive. Sounds like it will work out good if I follow the method you mentioned.


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Originally Posted by bigfish95971 View Post
Ceramic pads will be a lot quieter and smoother, and last longer. If that pin/sleeve can be pounded apart it can be cleaned and the others can be cleaned and out put back. Sand paper and rolled sandpaper or a pistol brush can be used. Just clean and lube them if not frozen solid together. But they are not expensive.
I did order new pads but decided against ceramic because of some people claiming they squealed just as bad as OEM pads.


I went ahead and bled the brake lines again because of the sinking pedal with then engine off and it seems to have helped a little but it still travels more than I think it should. Could this be a bad master cylinder?

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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I’m starting to think I may have let the fluid in the master cylinder get to low And I let air get into the MC. Do I have to bench bleed it or is there any way to bleed it without removing it from the truck?

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 12:11 PM
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Be sure you are bleeding the calipers correctly. Did you get air into the ABS? Assuming master cyl never inhaled air?
Tap each caliper with a soft faced hammer to verify that its centered. And, if the calipers are in any way bound up, or pads not square and properly seated, the pedal will feel this. Did you check rear brakes?

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JRL#S View Post
Be sure you are bleeding the calipers correctly. Did you get air into the ABS? Assuming master cyl never inhaled air?
Tap each caliper with a soft faced hammer to verify that its centered. And, if the calipers are in any way bound up, or pads not square and properly seated, the pedal will feel this. Did you check rear brakes?

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I put speed bleeders on each caliper, working from the back right to the front left. I think I did the bleeding correct. I will use alfaOBD to bleed the ABS. How would air have entered the ABS?

I am starting to think I may have let air in The MC while replacing the old fluid so maybe I need to bleed the MC.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dbow20 View Post
I am tired of squeaky brakes so Iím looking for the best option for replacing.
Brakes squeak for two reasons... They're glazed from heat and poor braking habits. Or the pads are cracked which allows them to "sing" from vibrations. Cracking can also be from heat or just bad manufacturing.

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Should the brake pedal pump all the way to the floor with the engine not running?
Be very cautious of pumping the brake pedal all the way to the floor because what that does is shove the master cylinder plunger too far into the rough area of the cylinder which can damage the plunger. Its not uncommon to hear people say they have to replace the master cylinder coincidentally right after bleeding their brakes. Thats why...
If possible, only pump the pedal about the same distance as you would under normal braking, or use a vacuum bleeder system to suck the fluid through.

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