NO CAB HEATER despite replacement of components
Hi, I know this post has been beat to death but I have not found a solution, nor someone with the exact issue and steps taken.
I have a 2010 2500 6.7 cummins 4x4 with 151,000 miles
I have no heater in the cab as of last year.
I replaced water pump (along with serpentine belt) and thermostat (190*). I drained and flushed the coolant and added new coolant based off the forums recommendations of the HOAT Zerex G-05.
While i had the coolant drained I tried to run water from a water hose through the heater core by disconnecting both rubber lines near firewall and running water through them. I will admit, it did not flow as easy as I think it should, but then again I did not have a solid way of connecting water with a tight connection. It was basically holding water hose up against rubber hose. Because the flow seemed low I used a funnel to slowly poor a container of CLR in heater core. My thought process was to do this to clean out/flush core. After letting sit a few minutes (even though the CLR immediately flowed through albeit slowly) I flushed lots of water through the core.
I then re-added coolant (recommended 22 quartz)..turned heater on wide open, ran truck on high idle up to temp and finally got it up to 194* coolant temp but still no heater in cab. I also used the allen/hex nut on top of engine near EGR/thermostat to bleed coolant lines.
I do not think it is the blend doors because I can hear the blend doors flopping open/close when I cycle heat on off. I have dual climate control. Based on my understanding of the hvac system and how air is routed I would think I would at least have heat on one side if it was a blend door issue. Right or wrong? Odds of both driver and passenger blend door /blend door motor going out at same time would have to be next to impossible right? Plus I can hear them flopping.
I have read about air bubble in heater core. A) how common is this? B) Can a little pocket of air really hold back 200 degree coolant even if I am using the bleed line to bleed air? C) This problem started long before i replaced water pump, thermostat, or coolant, so could an air bubble just happen seemingly overnight?
If it is an air bubble in the heater core, how can I clear it?
Any thoughts or suggestions? Are there any other temperature sensors or culprits I may be overlooking?
How easily should water from a water hose be able to flow though a heater core?
Any thoughts and experiences would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!
PS if it matters I have an H&S tuner with tranny tune, and cat back exhaust with deletes of everything but muffler. I have stock EGR equipment in place but have the EGR turned "off" in the H&S settings.
2010 Dodge Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4. 4.5" tuff country lift.
Last edited by Musicpro4x4; 10-24-2018 at 03:42 AM.
Reason: Added info.