How much does your Engine Vibrate under Full Load - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-22-2020, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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How much does your Engine Vibrate under Full Load

My 05 with a new OE motor, 178 cam, fluid dampener, 50hp Bosch inj., sportsman pump, south bend dual disk, cts2 & a bunch of other mods vibrates quite a bit under full throttle acceleration. A gnarly growl might be an accurate description too. With the Tuner on 3 a full throttle empty pull or a 20,000 pound trailer the vibration seems the same. When I give it the beans it’s not smooth, the truck pulls so hard it’s like it wants to tear itself apart. That might be misleading, but that’s what it seems like. It’s definitely not anything from the tranny back. I recently discovered trashed cam bushings, the front was replaced but I did not have the time (or so I thought) to pull the trans to get to the rear bushing. So does your truck vibrate or growl under full throttle acceleration or when passing/climbing while towing? Here’s a picture of the rear cam bushing. I’m going to make a quick post with all the pictures of the bushing. I might have to make time to tear this thing apart again this week. Thanks

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-22-2020, 10:59 PM
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I also have an '05 with similar modifications, cam, 50HP injectors, turbo etc. and it is very smooth with or without load. The idle with the balanced injectors and cam is super smooth. You mentioned a new OE motor but the cam bearing was shot...was this the result of installation damage from the aftermarket cam?
There are so many places to look for vibration issues but you need to isolate if it is from the drive train or engine. Since you've ruled out u-joints, diff issues what about things like a loose damper...I have a Fluidampr and they are much heavier than stock and need special bolts and locking washer to be sure they stay tight. Is the fan tight / no loose bearing.
If your driving on the highway and push the clutch in, does anything change.
Hope somebody has some more ideas.

2005 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4
BullyDog Triple Dog, MBRP Duals, FASS, Fluidampr, AFe Intercooler, Wilson Manifold, Garrett Stage 2 Turbo, Firestone Ride Rite, PacBrake, Transfer Flow, Surlastic Springs, ATS Pulse Flow Exhaust Manifold, Snow Stage 3 Water/Methanol Injection, Quadzilla Boost Fooler, Flex-a-Lite electric fans,
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Well crap. The shop destroyed the cam gear removing it from the oe cam & proceeded to install it on the Hamilton. The engine had this noise I knew wasn’t right but the shop swore it’s just diesel knocking. The gear was loose on the snout, running eccentrically or in a figure 8 pattern, the cam bushings are toast, cp3 gear, etc. I fixed everything the other day but did not have time to remove the transmission to do the rear bushing. I have installed a fluid dampener too & it’s tight. Everything on the motor is new, I replaced everything except the ac compressor when we did the motor. The vibration or growling is only under full throttle passing/merging or towing full throttle. Idles like a car but has a small hiccup at 1100rpm, it will not stay at that rpm which I was kinda thinking was the overfueling injectors. I swear it’s coming from the engine but it might be the output shaft bushing in the tcase tail housing??? It has some play but doesn’t leak. So under full throttle your pickup is as smooth as a gas motor of comparable size? Both my buddies trucks have so many vibrations from a lack of maintenance it’s impossible to compare mine to theirs. You wouldn’t happen to be in middle Tennessee would you? Thanks
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 12:47 AM
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My 04.5 with just under 72K is smooth as butter but has only ever seen mild tunes.

Hell, it pulls smoother than my chipped 2003 A6.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Alright. I’ll start digging in to this thing a little further. Something is definitely not right. Thanks.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2020, 01:06 AM
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The only difference between my gas and diesel vehicles is the noise, both are smooth. As I said before, vibrations/noises can be hard to pinpoint but you need to rule out either the engine or drive train as the culprit. Lot's of engine problems can be detected with a mechanic's stethoscope (or broom handle in a pinch). Having someone rev the engine occasionally as you test might help find an unusual noise.

This is another wild suggestion but could you have a bad injector, bad wiring harness etc causing a high load miss. If the top of engine cover has been off there's always the chance something was damaged.

p.s. I'm a long ways from Tennessee...I'm about 14 hours north

2005 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4
BullyDog Triple Dog, MBRP Duals, FASS, Fluidampr, AFe Intercooler, Wilson Manifold, Garrett Stage 2 Turbo, Firestone Ride Rite, PacBrake, Transfer Flow, Surlastic Springs, ATS Pulse Flow Exhaust Manifold, Snow Stage 3 Water/Methanol Injection, Quadzilla Boost Fooler, Flex-a-Lite electric fans,
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2020, 08:20 AM
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Oil analysis

Balance /Contribution test of injectors

Compression test
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2020, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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The injectors were tested before the move to Tennessee by a very reputable shop with the latest Bosch machine & they were spot on. The vibration existed before & after the test. So I’m pretty sure they can be ruled out. But the harness is old, the cover has been off 6-7 times so wiring is a possibility. I did purchase a decent stethoscope with 3 different tips-rubber, plastic & steel & I had one left over from my emt days. There is definitely a noise on the block on the pass side of number 1. I pulled the rear drive shaft & yanked hard on the output shaft & there is definitely some play on the bearing. The bushing has some ducka ducka too seal is not even moist which is perplexing but that could be it. I’m going to rebuild the tcase when I pull the trans to get to the rear cam bushing. It shows signs of improper break in & scoring I had an oil analysis before the trip, it came back good. I pulled another sample yesterday during another oil change to send in. Im sure there’s a shop in Nashville that can kill test but being a manual there’s no way to load the motor. Once that south bend gets a little heat in it, it’ll kill the engine or push through the brakes. I’ll keep this thread updated as things get checked out. Thanks
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2020, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Oh & compression test was done 6,000 ago, they were all around 485 I think. Can’t remember exactly. No more than 10psi variation though.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2020, 12:17 PM
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I know from your other thread it was checked, but when I had a weird kind of vibration at full throttle it was valves being out of spec.

I still have no idea what I was doing wrong, but it took me using feeler gauges of the right size and one size up to set them correct. Had to also turn the motor over a few times to ensure they stayed accurate as well. I was setting them until the feeler gauge had drag on it and after the truck had sat for days.

I'd set the intake with the 0.010 and then turn it over twice to check and they'd fit a 0.018 feeler. So then I tried by setting it to 0.010 and then trying to run a 0.011 through until it wouldn't fit but the 0.010 would. They had to go way tighter than until they felt a drag on them to keep the 0.011 from fitting.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2020, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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I’m so confident in my procedure I’ve never thought to rotate the motor several times & recheck them. I’ll give it a shot this weekend
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2020, 09:05 PM
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'05 with manual? Has the 2 piece POS driveline with center carrier bearing in rubber float cushion.
They vibrate new out of the factory. Check for missing balance weight.
Pull DL, check each bearing closely for any rust coming out, tight stiff joints, questionable ujoint seals, worn torn rubber cushion.
If all good, take to DL ship and have dynamically spun balance checked.
Even after all this they still vibrate under heavy load.
Replace with 5" dia aluminum tube, far less spinning weight, faster acceleration, smooth as glass.

Park along side of similar Ram, driver doors open, compare door bounce.

Have a cylinder balance test ran on the motor, should be less than +3 -5% variation.
Injectors can test Bosch perfect, if a connector tube is leaking that cylinder will be down on power low RP to the injector.

Run the truck on a dyno, listening for excessive noise and vibration.

Butchered cam job by rebuilder, did they do the rest of the motor?
Noise on left side of motor #1, if it's internal noise, is a damaged worn lifter, cam lobe, push rods.
External noise? #1 HP fuel line, #1 has no snubber NVH.

Edge tunes are not the best by far and not the smoothest making power.
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