Driveline vibration - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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  • 2 Post By MDSWA
  • 1 Post By smelonas
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  • 1 Post By nosympathy
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Driveline vibration

So this is kind of a long story. I've had driveline vibration issues with this truck for a few years now and I've had the drivelines removed and sent to the machine shop and balanced twice now with some improvement but not completely fixed. This is a quad cab dually with an 8' box so it has a two piece driveline with a carrier in between the two drivelines. Well my transmission died on me and I had to have it rebuilt. I know and trust the shop that did the work for me. Well they test drove it after the transmission rebuild and said what the hell is up with the driveline. They checked it out and said that the U joints on the front half of the rear driveline weren't all in a line like they are supposed to be and that it looked like at some point something happened to the driveline and it wasn't repaired correctly. They had a shop cut the end off of the driveline and clock it correctly to the rest of the U joints and balance it and installed it. They said though that it looked like it was short, like too much of it was extended from the transmission, like it was shortened at some point. I tried to attach some pictures, I'm not sure if I was successful though. The driveline measures 25 1/2" from the welded end at the back to the center of the U joint on the front, hopefully the pictures show this better than I can describe it.

So, I don't know the history of this truck, I bought it used, I don't know if the driveline was repaired incorrectly of if someone replaced it with one that isn't correct for the truck or what, it could be anything. Please take a look at the pictures and tell me what you think. If you think it is wrong what should I do about it, buy a whole new front section of the rear driveline, have it repaired again, ORM or aftermarket? The truck is stock and I don't do anything extraordinary with it power wise.

Thanks for the advice.

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 02:45 PM
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Now might be a good time to replace that whole setup with an aluminum one-piece driveline. No more carrier bearing and fewer U-joints to deal with. If interested, try the forum search function. You'll find several threads on one-piece drivelines.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 12:29 AM
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That shaft has definitely been altered, it is visibly too short. Unless there is some deception to those pictures.

And yes, someone rebuilt it at some point. The u joints are held in with clips, OEM is the resin crap. Another thing, next time you pull the driveshaft, pound the balancer off. They arent known to for fixing vibration.

Ill see if I can get the chance to measure my yokes extruding distance tomorrow. Had the old neck and upper back tighten up on me friday night, so I spent yet another weekend productively doing not a hot damn thing. Anyway... Ill see about that measurement.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 01:17 AM
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Do yourself a big favour and throw that 2 piece shaft in the scrap bin and get yourself the aluminum one piece shaft.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 08:37 AM
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Verify good motor /trans mounts?
99% of time new one piece driveshaft fixes issue.
Measure properly

If towing heavy or higher HP 1480 joints
One and done

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 09:16 PM
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Don't have a dually but do have an 8' box. My OE 2 piece driveshaft was 82.xx" from ujoint at the pumpkin to u joint at the transfer case when I measured to get my 1 piece.

Don't remember exactly now, been a few years. Yours looks way shorter than that.

Edit: actually your seal is different from mine. Not sure how far the seal sticks out on mine, but it's not flat like yours.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020, 12:10 PM
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I had my balancer come loose while driving through Nevada.

It was 103 outside when I pulled into a Vegas stealership where I sat for 4 hours.

I didn't have my tools with me to remove the drive shaft and slide the balancer off so I gave the stealership $290 to do it for me.

I have been driving it ever since without the balancer with no problems... One piece drive shaft is the way to go...

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ok everyone first thanks for all the information and recommendations. Sounds like a one piece aluminum shaft is the way to go so now the next question, which one? Looks like I can spend $500 to $1500, I have no idea how to choose one. Again any help appreciated. Thanks
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-14-2020, 02:15 AM
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The driveshaft specialist someone posted the link to prior is who I went with.

5" DS with 1480 ujoints, ended up being about $900 shipped. Been on the truck a few years now and still looks pretty much brand new. I've been to 100 without any noticeable vibrations and I have a CCLB.
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