How many miles are too many? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
3rd Gen. Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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How many miles are too many?

Im a former 05 owner (3500 SLT) and have also had a slew of other 2500 and 3500 Cummins trucks. Im currently driving a 2014 SXT 3500 and while I love it, I just dont need to have this much cash tied up in a truck right now. For those of you that are still loving your 3rd gens, if you needed to replace yours, is there a point at which you would consider a truck worn out? Who has the highest mile 3rd Gen these days?


2005 3500 SLT 4x4 48RE. Hillbilly Deluxe Edition with 3 suspension, BD steering brace, 35 Toyo MTs, AFE intake, 5 exhaust, 70 hp tow tune, Isspro gauges.
2014 3500 SXT 4x4 68RFE, Thurens, 5100s, ST Maxxs. Sold
1998 3500 SLT 12v NV4500 done to the nuts and loaded to the tits with chrome.
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post #2 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 12:31 PM
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There are just too many variables to give an accurate answer.

In my opinion, these engines will go 300,000 to 500,000 miles if taken care of, not driven like it was stolen and good regular maintenance is done. Not knowing the driving habits of previous owners makes buying one with over 150,000 miles a deal breaker for me.

That said, the caveat; your mileage may vary

Mine has 327,000 miles on it but because of an injector failure that in turn took out the turbo I re-ringed and put all new bearings in it.
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2003 Ram 2500 4X4 Quad Cab Smarty SO6 395HP tune, Edge CTS, 4 Diamond Eye exhaust
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post #3 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 12:42 PM
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When I pulled my factory shortblock for a built one there was plenty of cross hatch left at 300k and could probably have easily gone 300k more . 240k of that was over 800hp so as long as it’s been taken care of I wouldn’t worry to much . Injectors seem to be the culprit of ruining the cr motors.
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05 c/c drw 4x4 full billet DTT,billet62/s480,PPE dual fueler,HP tuners,Flux inj.,studded,ported head w Hellmann intake,Hamilton valvetrain, Mitusa gusher,5"flo pro,mag-hytec dd trans and rear diff,guages
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post #4 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 12:50 PM
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What they said!
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'03 QCLB 2500 305/555 NV5600 w/ FastCoolers 3.73 4x4, Color match Lear Topper.
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post #5 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 12:59 PM
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The shell will rot away before most people consider them throw aways. If I do get to that point, I'll use it for a fummins swap.

That said, I'm at 310K in the salt belt with no major rusting issues. I'll just need a new bed someday in the future. That isn't that big of a deal.

05 CCLB 48RE
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post #6 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 01:00 PM
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They last a long time untill someone ( or an CR injector ) lets the magic Smoke Out .
Then its over Johnny .
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SOLD My 2001 and 2005 .
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post #7 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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One of the trucks Im looking at is at 240,000. It is spotless, full load in a non fleet color and looks bone stock except for an AFE air filter. I will probably go look at it in the next day or so.

I obviously know it all comes down to maintenance, and will have it gone through before making a deal. My problem is that I absolutely need a long bed cc 3500 srw. That is the only configuration that really works, and they are not exactly a common truck to find used.

Im also very versed at searching here, but the specifics needed for my next question brings either 9,000 threads, or omits common words. Is there a way to test injectors while still in the engine? Ive never heard of one, but Ive never had to replace an injector so Ive never looked into it. Any other cues aside from white smoke on start-up?

Thanks guys! Ive been out of the working on trucks mode for a long time, but if I by a 15 year old rig, I guess Ill have to get back into that groove!

2005 3500 SLT 4x4 48RE. Hillbilly Deluxe Edition with 3 suspension, BD steering brace, 35 Toyo MTs, AFE intake, 5 exhaust, 70 hp tow tune, Isspro gauges.
2014 3500 SXT 4x4 68RFE, Thurens, 5100s, ST Maxxs. Sold
1998 3500 SLT 12v NV4500 done to the nuts and loaded to the tits with chrome.
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post #8 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 01:22 PM
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I've got an 08, bought it at 212k, has 313k on it now, have had it for 3 years, had to pretty much redo the front suspension, rear driveshaft u joints, and a valve body. Also had to replace every component of the AC system but that was for comfort. Water pump went out at 280k and left the clutch fan and idler outlet bearings shot, so replaced those as well. Coolant flush with water pump replacement. Done it all myself so saved there on labor but have spent many weekends full of headaches lol. Honestly still love my truck and hope to have many more miles under my belt before an overhaul is needed.

08 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins 68RFE Mega Cab SLT - DPF & EGR Delete H&S Mini Maxx w/ Trans Unlock running Street tune - 295/70/R17 MT's on stock alloys 308,300
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post #9 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 04:15 PM
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It's winter time.
Tell the perspective seller that you want to start the truck bone cold, not plugged in either. Like schedule to see it at 8 am on a Saturday and show up at 7 in case he's planning on firing it up for a minute before you arrive. Failing injectors generally present themselves as a long start or no start when cold and the colder, the longer it takes.
And check to make sure it wasn't plugged in all night.
If it lights right off without cranking too long, no white smoke (not to be confused with steam), run smooth right away, etc, that is about the best shadetree instant test I can think of. Still not 100% foolproof. And if the truck doesn't have additional filtration or a recepit for injectors in the last 100-150k miles, assume ti needs them soon.

Other than that, it's a truck and even if the engine has another 200k miles left in it, the other 1000 components may not. I'd rather buy a 200k mile truck with a stack of receipts for all the things the guy above me posted than a 120k mile truck "that's never had any problems."

Don't buy from a used car lot unless you have great confidence in the vehicle you're looking at or the car dealer (if you find one worth trusting let us know, haha)
Also don't fall for the greasy used car salesman with the Polish accent who is posing as a private owner. Don't "meet" the seller in a public location, you want to see where the truck lived and how meticulous the owner is, at his house. Don't buy something that someone just bought 6 months or 3 weeks ago and "doesn't need anymore."

Don't buy from the salty mag chloride side of the mountains, buy from the wet coastal undercarriage wash from the rain everyday side of the mountains.

That's about it, super easy, lol.

And compared to new or newer low mile vehicles, old and high mileage is where it may pay to spend more than the "going rate" for the right vehicle. Especailly with diesel trucks. So many with a sordid history that included some d bag who stacked 3 tuners on top of each other 10 years ago and tried his hand at drag racing a 4 ton truck.
Don't buy an auto trans (just my rule). I loathe the 4 speed autos, unless you only tow light, then make sure the trans isn't ragged out.

Cheers!
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07 5.9 Mega, G56, SB Single disk Ceramic clutch, OE 1 piece Al driveshaft, 60hp Industrial injectors, Triple dog, Glacier 2mic filter, BD exhaust brake, ATI Super Damper, BD steering brace, Firestone bags, Big Wig swaybar, 4th Gen 20s and some home made Stableloads.
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post #10 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 04:19 PM
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So basically, buy my truck and long bed it....lol.

07 5.9 Mega, G56, SB Single disk Ceramic clutch, OE 1 piece Al driveshaft, 60hp Industrial injectors, Triple dog, Glacier 2mic filter, BD exhaust brake, ATI Super Damper, BD steering brace, Firestone bags, Big Wig swaybar, 4th Gen 20s and some home made Stableloads.
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post #11 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I’m in Blaine Wa every day, so we’re close! You longbed it it for me,and delete the mega part and it’s a deal. Unless your truck is red, blue, green, yellow or black

2005 3500 SLT 4x4 48RE. Hillbilly Deluxe Edition with 3 suspension, BD steering brace, 35 Toyo MTs, AFE intake, 5 exhaust, 70 hp tow tune, Isspro gauges.
2014 3500 SXT 4x4 68RFE, Thurens, 5100s, ST Maxxs. Sold
1998 3500 SLT 12v NV4500 done to the nuts and loaded to the tits with chrome.
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post #12 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 08:39 PM
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Original owner of a 06' mega cab. 383K miles on original 5.9. Has 12300hrs on the clock. Changed injectors 2X, last being BBI stage 1's 6+ yrs + 135k miles later. Fully rebuilt billet DDT auto at 200K because torque converter was slipping under high loads in lockup. Rebuilt rear end 1X (just bearings), Transfer case at 310K, 08.5 T steering & Borgeson 6 bolt box recently. Hard wired headlights with relays & rocker swithches because TIPM is junk. Lots of other stuff along the way.
Truck is starting to rot out now. +10K to repair body because of family discount. Bro-in-law has a body shop. Just picked up a used complete 6.7 from an 08 w/ approx. 150K miles that will be getting rebuild for when the 5.9 finally craps the bed. Still running original CP3, Starter & PS Pump. I have no problem dumping another 20K into a truck that is worth 1/2 that. That is less than a year of payments and depriciation that you will have on any new 100K diesel truck. Warreny sucks if your truck is in the shop & you can't drive it. New vehicles break down more often than my old beater.
I'll quote some wise man that said "I drive a CUMMINS, not a dodge!!!"

06 MC 2500 Laramie 4X4 auto/ BBI Stage 1's/Fass 150/ARP studs/Anarchy EFI/ Banks 4"duels/ DTT trans/Revtec 2"/ Bilstein 5100's/35" MT's/ Firestone Air Bags w/ compressor/ SRT10 Hood/Line X/Carlie BJ's/Yukon Free Spin Hubs.
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